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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hey y’all, just needed some more insight on the engine temps on the 2.0T.
I have a 21 2.0 Sport and it’s about to reach 40k miles. It’s lightly modded and haven’t had a single issue until now.
I was parked slightly on an downwards incline with the front end facing down and was parked waiting in my car. I then noticed my cluster said the engine is too hot and to turn it off. The engine gauge was full bars. I turned off the car and checked the coolant fill. It was super low. I let the car cool down and drove to a nearby auto store to buy some coolant. For the most part of the drive, the engine temp stayed normal at 4 bars. I filled up some coolant and it was normal for about 100 something miles of driving. Again I was sitting in my car parked for a few minutes and the bar jumped to 5 bars. Normally, it stays at 4 bars. I checked the coolant fill and most of the coolant hoses nearby and oil and everything checked out. Coolant hasn’t moved since filled, don’t see any coolant leaks or residue and oil is filled and still like new. I started driving and the bars went back down to 4. No issues with the AFR or IAT. Also the temperature here in MD is moderate. It’s about 45-60 degrees right now.
I don’t know if I’m overthinking or overreacting but I wanted to know if anyone experienced this as well and if so, what was the issue and resolution? Is there anything else that I’m forgetting to check?
 

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Could the system have gotten low enough to get air trapped in it? You mentioned that it showed overheating when it was on a downhill incline which may have been the reason it overheated due to air being trapped. You may want to try parking it on an uphill incline, removing the radiator cap, crank it up, let it run for a couple minutes then check level. If the cause is air in the system this may allow it to "burp" it out. 🤷‍♂️
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Could the system have gotten low enough to get air trapped in it? You mentioned that it showed overheating when it was on a downhill incline which may have been the reason it overheated due to air being trapped. You may want to try parking it on an uphill incline, removing the radiator cap, crank it up, let it run for a couple minutes then check level. If the cause is air in the system this may allow it to "burp" it out. 🤷‍♂️
Haven’t tried that out yet but I am noticing it going up when the car is idiling 🤦🏽‍♂️🤦🏽‍♂️
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
How long have you been running flex fuel? I experienced an overheat one time right after installing mine - turns out I had to disable the ECT2 sensor in Hondata FlashPro - no problems since then ::knocking on my head::. Does KTuner have something like that too? Penguin Tech Racing flex fuel kit - didn't fit right
Honestly, not often. I’ve had the Flexfuel kit for well over a year and haven’t really pumped ethanol as much. The last time I put ethanol was probably 7 months ago. I run 93 oct pretty often.
the connector for the PRLflex fuel connects to that sensor but it shouldn’t be disabled. There’s a bypass connector.
 

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2018 Accord Sport 2.0T, Downpipe, ktuner phearable stage 4, flex fuel, intake.
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make sure your radiator fan is kicking on. try turning on your AC and that should command your fan on so you can check. sounds like its a lack of airflow when you arent moving. its a easy place to start.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
How long have you been running flex fuel? I experienced an overheat one time right after installing mine - turns out I had to disable the ECT2 sensor in Hondata FlashPro - no problems since then ::knocking on my head::. Does KTuner have something like that too? Penguin Tech Racing flex fuel kit - didn't fit right
make sure your radiator fan is kicking on. try turning on your AC and that should command your fan on so you can check. sounds like its a lack of airflow when you arent moving. its a easy place to start.
yeah I checked the fan and everything seemed to work. Went under the car and checked the wires as well.
I just got an update from the dealership and they told my my head gasket is blown. 😑😑
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Update: came back from the dealership this morning and they confirmed I have a blown head gasket. Waiting on the culprit to find out what caused it.
Crazy to think that the 2.0 would have the same issue as the 1.5.
 

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Update: came back from the dealership this morning and they confirmed I have a blown head gasket. Waiting on the culprit to find out what caused it.
Crazy to think that the 2.0 would have the same issue as the 1.5.
That sucks!!! Keep us updated on what they find.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
That sucks!!! Keep us updated on what they find.
From the what the tech believes, he feels that the head studs on the 2.0 are too short and with the accord running high boost, low compression, it just isn’t a good mix.
But, we shall see what they see when they take the cylinder head off. They told my everything is fine, my AF ratio is good and compression isn’t off.
Crazy to think a head gasket would blow at 40k miles 🤦🏽‍♂️🤦🏽‍♂️
 

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From the what the tech believes, he feels that the head studs on the 2.0 are too short and with the accord running high boost, low compression, it just isn’t a good mix.
If that's the case and this is/becomes a recurring issue, then Honda needs to step up and do a recall to correct the issue. 🤞
 

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Definitely keep us updated on how honda proceeds with this. This should be covered under warranty. A warped head is absurd, and is an obvious manufacturing defect, these things are machined/cast in the most precise fashion, in 40k miles there shouldn't be such an issue, I have had some cars with some absolute trash engines and overheating issues etc, but nothing that would "warp" a head.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Definitely keep us updated on how honda proceeds with this. This should be covered under warranty. A warped head is absurd, and is an obvious manufacturing defect, these things are machined/cast in the most precise fashion, in 40k miles there shouldn't be such an issue, I have had some cars with some absolute trash engines and overheating issues etc, but nothing that would "warp" a head.
You would think so right? It’s ridiculous. They said because I had mods that warranty will not cover the car. I’ve seen so many accords heavily modded with no issues. I didn’t even have a down pipe or an upgraded turbo for it to be acting up all of a sudden
 

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You would think so right? It’s ridiculous. They said because I had mods that warranty will not cover the car. I’ve seen so many accords heavily modded with no issues. I didn’t even have a down pipe or an upgraded turbo for it to be acting up all of a sudden
Yeah well they can't decline you warranty unless they prove its the mods that broke it.

"The Magnuson Moss Warranty Act prohibits automobile manufacturers and dealers from voiding a vehicle’s warranty because an aftermarket part or a part not made by the original manufacturer was installed on said vehicle. "

You can always go straight to honda corporate and say you will get a lawyer. A simple lawyer could cost less than what they want for repairs.
 

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So how does the E85 tune work exactly? I know running straight E85 you have to run a boat load more ignition advance which makes more power higher cylinder pressure. Running E85 is going to stress things more than regular 93. But do you change the tune when you fill up with E85 or is the tune always on and the computer reduces or adds ignition based on the knock count. Because if its the computer that changes it running straight E85 then going to straight gas 93 would knock a lot at first and ignition knock is very hard on head bolts and head gaskets. Im running straight stage 3 tune so im asking how does the E85 tune work?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Yeah well they can't decline you warranty unless they prove its the mods that broke it.

"The Magnuson Moss Warranty Act prohibits automobile manufacturers and dealers from voiding a vehicle’s warranty because an aftermarket part or a part not made by the original manufacturer was installed on said vehicle. "

You can always go straight to honda corporate and say you will get a lawyer. A simple lawyer could cost less than what they want for repairs.
I’m in contact with Honda care. We’ll see what they say. Needless to say the engine should not be giving out so quick
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
So how does the E85 tune work exactly? I know running straight E85 you have to run a boat load more ignition advance which makes more power higher cylinder pressure. Running E85 is going to stress things more than regular 93. But do you change the tune when you fill up with E85 or is the tune always on and the computer reduces or adds ignition based on the knock count. Because if its the computer that changes it running straight E85 then going to straight gas 93 would knock a lot at first and ignition knock is very hard on head bolts and head gaskets. Im running straight stage 3 tune so im asking how does the E85 tune work?
That’s a really good question honestly. Before I ran ethanol, I asked a bunch of people if you had to jump from tune to tune to run certain fuels. I’m coming from a WRX perspective and I know every platform is different. For the most part no but that’s what the flex fuel kit is for so it can be compatible with gasoline and ethanol. The tune itself should be able to adjust when ethanol or gasoline is used. I haven’t ran ethanol in such a long time and I almost had no knock when I was running 93oct.
 

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If you were watching your knock count with your K-Tuner than you would know. Just a side note I looked a Phearable stage 4 tune dyno results on a stock car and thats such a huge power increase. 340hp and 400lbs torque. compared to the stage 3 which is 280hp and 340b torque. No wonder you guys run that. Huge power difference I was shocked it was so much. So the tune adjusts on its own but you watched the knock count. I know there are a lot of guys pushing those numbers with bigger turbos and no blown head gaskets yet. Your could of had a defect or a weak spot from the factory. keep us posted sucks they are giving you crap for the flex fuel kit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
If you were watching your knock count with your K-Tuner than you would know. Just a side note I looked a Phearable stage 4 tune dyno results on a stock car and thats such a huge power increase. 340hp and 400lbs torque. compared to the stage 3 which is 280hp and 340b torque. No wonder you guys run that. Huge power difference I was shocked it was so much. So the tune adjusts on its own but you watched the knock count. I know there are a lot of guys pushing those numbers with bigger turbos and no blown head gaskets yet. Your could of had a defect or a weak spot from the factory. keep us posted sucks they are giving you crap for the flex fuel kit.
The crazy thing about it, the engine was running almost too good that I don’t think anyone would have noticed. K.con would literally stay at .49-.51 and my AF ratio was almost perfect. If it wasn’t for me sitting in my car for a minute then I would’ve never known the car was having an issue. I know for a fact there’s a defect in the engine. The only head gasket failure I heard of was a guy who is pushing 500whp +
I will keep y’all updated on the whole process. It’s such a ****** up situation.
 
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