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Discussion Starter #1
First time posting on the forum and i would like to take the opportunity to share some info and data from my work on the new 10th gen platform.

In the last year, i've been working with Honda's new turbocharged line of vehicles and i personally bought a 2018 Honda Accord sport 2.0 6mt firstable, because it would allow me to understand better how they work and second, well, i believe it is a great car and in my opinion one of the best sedans available at the moment.

Also, i would like to clarify Dynos are just measuring tools and from my 20 year experience they all read different based on design, conditions and many other inputs.

With that said, all my testing was performed on the same dyno and conditions usiing 93oct.

This was my baseline in completely stock form:

226hp - 245tq

Stock.jpg

Right away i tested Hondata's calibrations with the following results:

Stage 2 248hp - 319tq

Stage 3 252hp - 327tq

Pretty close to Hondata's claims or results. Not bad at all!

I chose this system simply because i've been working with it for quite some time and always had good results. Not trying to enter a debate on what's better because at the end of the day, they are all good tools.

After spending some time tuning fuel, ignition and most importantly boost tables, i ended up with this:

268hp - 341tq (a 42hp gain peak to peak)

stock vs tuned1.jpg

2 weeks after this dyno session, i installed an Injen intake system. Right away, the car was breathing a little better based on boost readings and spool. Maf didn't need any adjustments with this intake but my boost tables did in order to maintain the same curve i dialed previously. The results were a 9hp gain over previous numbers specially in the upper rpms where the turbo was running out of breath before.

A month later, a PRL catless downpipe was installed. Like i anticipated, boost drastically changed due increase in flow. Spool was obviously quicker and boost was over shooting my old settings. Traction was a huge issue in the low rpms at this point. After days of road tuning. logging and dialing, i ended up with with a new boost curve and moving the powerband focusing more in the upper rpms where the car really needed.

It was now time to see what gains i obtained from this:

Downpipe tune vs Intake tune.jpg

23hp increase and a more usable powerband (red is downpipe+intake, blue is intake test)

Final.jpg

So what all this data means?

Simple, regardless of final dyno numbers more important is the gains from that starting point (baseline).

Like i previously said, those numbers are always gonna be different and you should always had an initial point of comparison.

Overall, these cars are pretty capable of gaining 70+hp / 100+tq with just a few mods.

I hope you enjoyed!
 

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Awesome information. I am really interested to get mine tuned like yours - I have all the same mods just with a 10AT, so no stage 3 :( ...

I really want more power up top, the super low-end torque surge honestly scares me because I feel like one day I'll have an unexpected meet & greet with one of my rods...
 

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If these Graphs were as Tall as there are Wide that Tuning is Just a Plug & Play Info Dump into ECU ~ It really looks like as Between 3000 & 3500 it Rockets Off to 327 Tq. approx
92Tq in approx 500 Rpm ~ Hope You don't have any Boost Pikes in that Area or Let Off ( During Acceleration ) Suddenly @ 3500 Rpm ~ Several Times . .

This should be Smoothed out with more Gradual Feed in Couldn't Honda Data ~ Tune ~ so that Sudden Tq. Surge would be spread over 1200 Rpms - ?
Then You wouldn't be over coming the Tires , but Mostly to put Less Stress on Hardware ..
 

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I Meant to also Say

I see where You Tuned it ( I Guess ) Only Guessing as which ~ Pictures ~ are the Improving Tuning with Power Band Shifting ?

Could You take that Picture and Use Software Program to Stretch Graph Vertical so HP & Tq. Actually have Graduation over 1" Per 100 HP

Then You'd really see the Surge which looks a Bit Crazy - Like - Big Hit of Nitrous Dumping All in 400 Rpm . .

Anyway Thanks for Custom Tuning , but Sure seems If Honda Data did all this Testing that all this Tweaking would be done ..

I Wouldn't Mine doing some of that Tuning ~ But Messing with V~Tech ~ Where it Kicks in or Shifts Over can have Damaging Results with Early Donation as the Knock
Sensor isn't that Instant - Fast Type .. ( Hence the Concern with the 400 Rpm Jump ) of @ Least 92 Ft lbs Plus . . is all :wink:
 

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I can vouch for this! I have the same setup but used a low reading Dyno and got 285whp with Injen SRI and PRL catless DP. Crazy numbers with two bolt-ons and a custom tune.
 

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The next great step after seeing these tunes go through would be track tests.
Haven't seen these new Accords showing up at autocross events so far even with all the categories they qualify on.
Anyone here planning on track days??
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I had a track session with some customers last night and while we waited for the faster lanes to go i decided do a couple of runs on the accord and see where it was at. Car was ran exactly how i daily it (my work equipment in the trunk, tires at 34-35psi and 93oct fuel). This was the moment when i feelt a little envy towards the 10at guys as the auto does everything for you and it does it good. However, the 6mt doesn't have the limitations the auto might have in the future and that's the reason i chose it.
I literally fought this car down the track in 1st and 2nd gear, anything over 55% throttle there was no traction. I would say the best upgrade at this point for the 6mt cars would be better tires / wheels and an LSD in order to see full potential.
1st run was a 13.7 & second run [email protected]

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20190110_045508.jpg
20190110_045909.jpg
 

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Cool! Looked at this thread yesterday and was noticing the gains with the various tunes, neat to see these cars responding well to simple mods & tuning.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I decided to do some more appropriate test runs tonight.
This time i unloaded all my work equipment from the trunk and also the spare tire, lowered the tire pressure to 28psi, then 22psi and dialed the launch a little better. By the 2nd run it dead hooked 2nd gear. With a better tire and not the factory goodyears i'm sure it's got a better time.
1st run was [email protected] with a 2.3 60ft, 2nd run cut a 2.1 60ft and a [email protected]
We'll see if i have more time in the following months to try again.

20190111_213144.jpg
IMG-20190111-WA0020.jpg

Videos:


 

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Discussion Starter #13
So You haven't Tried to Move the V-Tech in Either Direction - OK ~ That's Cool ..

How much more ( Actual Usable ) - RPM are Up Top ? ~ 250 Rpm~ 500 Rpm ~ 800 Rpm ( Rpm with Power ) Not just Spinning , Thanks . .
EngTech1, i'm sorry to inform you the vtec in our motors doesn't work the same way as the older honda engine series. You need to do some research on the subject. VTC on the other hand does have the effect you are referring to.
 

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OK , Thanks for Info Update on Newer - VTech ..Design .

I Guess easy way to Make the Graph ( Portray Facts ) in Better Light - would be to Change Computer Monitor - Screen Resolution to Jack Height Up ..

Still No Reply to How Far a Power Shift You were able to get ?
( Boost & Fuel Table ) or Just with Timing or all 3 ?
OR
Top End Actual Usable RPMs compared to Stock Set Up VS just Tuned ?

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #16
So You haven't Tried to Move the V-Tech in Either Direction - OK ~ That's Cool ..

How much more ( Actual Usable ) - RPM are Up Top ? ~ 250 Rpm~ 500 Rpm ~ 800 Rpm ( Rpm with Power ) Not just Spinning , Thanks . .
You're gonna have to figure all that out on your own.
Thanks for asking tho.
 

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That's some great gains, thanks for sharing.

Unfortunately many of us cannot install a catless DP. We need the CAT to pass inspection every year. I am guessing you guys don't have emissions inspection where you live? Don't you also have the check-engine light (CEL) on all the time with a catless DP? Or does the DP have 02 bungs and you fool the sensors or ECU somehow so it doesn't display a CEL? I am surprised these new cars don't go into limp mode or light up your dash without a CAT :surprise: :smile:
 

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I literally fought this car down the track in 1st and 2nd gear, anything over 55% throttle there was no traction. I would say the best upgrade at this point for the 6mt cars would be better tires / wheels and an LSD in order to see full potential.
1st run was a 13.7 & second run [email protected]
Besides better tires, our cars need better motor/torque mounts. Polyurethane mounts is the best way to reduce wheel spin as well as torque steer. Even race tires will spin without good mounts. You might get some NVH, but if you go with lower durometer bushings, and not with the highest available, it's not bad at all for daily driving. I 've upgraded the mounts on most of my past Hondas and Acuras, and it was night and day difference. Handling also improves noticeably because less engine movement means less suspension movement.

I am just waiting for someone to come out with aftermarket mounts. Even with factory stock power I experience a lot of wheel hop and torque steer with my Sport 2.0T. This gen Accord is in desperate need of better engine/torque mounts and it has always been the weak point in most cars Honda has made the last 30 years. They are barely adequate for the power they make from the factory. Extra power is only going to accelerate wear in your mounts and tie rods, not to mention lower U-joint and steering components. There are always some adverse effects with significant power gains. You have to do all the proper upgrades to improve traction or recover the loss thereof, and put the extra power down better.

Look at it a different way. Your have more power and torque at the wheels than a BMW 335i and 340i, but those cars run 12's and yours 13's when you should be at least as fast. Tires will help a little, but with the soft mounts and suspension, traction is still an issue.
 

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I had a track session with some customers last night and while we waited for the faster lanes to go i decided do a couple of runs on the accord and see where it was at. Car was ran exactly how i daily it (my work equipment in the trunk, tires at 34-35psi and 93oct fuel). This was the moment when i feelt a little envy towards the 10at guys as the auto does everything for you and it does it good. However, the 6mt doesn't have the limitations the auto might have in the future and that's the reason i chose it.
I literally fought this car down the track in 1st and 2nd gear, anything over 55% throttle there was no traction. I would say the best upgrade at this point for the 6mt cars would be better tires / wheels and an LSD in order to see full potential.
1st run was a 13.7 & second run [email protected]
I actually raced against you on that time slip with my 2.0t 10AT. mines still completely stock, but ran consistent 13.9'[email protected]

[ame]https://youtu.be/IjAWNB8cy94?[/ame]
 
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