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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I had never heard of limp mode before but today after driving about 10 miles in dry weather on the last 2 blocks to my building up a pretty steep hill my car just lost all power and seemed to be misfiring, check engine light came on would not move faster no matter how hard I depressed the accelerator. I had a trunk full of groceries and there was no where to pull off so I "limped" at maybe 1-2mph into my building garage. Now ALL the warning lights are stuck on and won't turn off no matter how many times I restart or reboot everything. The idle is much lower than the regular 1k rpm it normally does. Seems to misfire at the low idle but seems smooth when I rev it to 2k rpms. This car only has 3750 miles on it, my previous Accord went 12 years with absolutely no issues at all. Any advice is greatly appreciated.

Thank you
 

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You have access to a scan tool to check codes (w/check engine light illuminated it should have a code thrown). I thought I had little miles on my 2018 (9k+) but you have me beat w/3750 (if that's not a typo). Has the car sat long periods of time w/o driving?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
You have access to a scan tool to check codes (w/check engine light illuminated it should have a code thrown). I thought I had little miles on my 2018 (9k+) but you have me beat w/3750 (if that's not a typo). Has the car sat long periods of time w/o driving?
I was just looking at scan tools on Amazon. I bought it brand new, I live right downtown so I rarely drive. I only put fuel in it a couple times a year, I'm wondering now if it could be because of old fuel? Fuel filter? Should I try to put some high octane in it, normally use regular. I got the lights to go off by disconnecting the battery for a half hour. When I started it again all the warning lights came back on but then another restart they started turning off. I tried to drive it again and it was fine for about 1/8th of a mile then got sluggish with the engine light flashing on again so I parked it. I do go down and start it every other day but it can be a couple weeks between driving it sometimes.
 

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It's too hard to tell without a scan tool nowadays. It could be a number of things, including a battery going dead ect. You can get a scan tool at Walmart for $20, they aren't bad to have. I keep one in my glove box. They can easily save you trips and money to/at dealerships.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
It's too hard to tell without a scan tool nowadays. It could be a number of things, including a battery going dead ect. You can get a scan tool at Walmart for $20, they aren't bad to have. I keep one in my glove box. They can easily save you trips and money to/at dealerships.
I just ordered one on Amazon. I drove it again to put high octane fuel in it. It seemed almost fine, no lights on, then going up a hill it got more and more sluggish causing the check engine light to come on. I sat and idled it in the garage for a bit, the light turned stayed off and it didn't seem to be misfiring anymore like earlier today. Fuel pump? Fuel filter? O2 sensor? Battery? It's 3 1/2 years old, that seems young for it to crap out, bad alternator? Ugh I hope the scanner tool will just tell me exactly what it is tomorrow but I've never used one so I hope I can figure it out.

Thanks for your advice
 

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I was just looking at scan tools on Amazon. I bought it brand new, I live right downtown so I rarely drive. I only put fuel in it a couple times a year, I'm wondering now if it could be because of old fuel? Fuel filter? Should I try to put some high octane in it, normally use regular. I got the lights to go off by disconnecting the battery for a half hour. When I started it again all the warning lights came back on but then another restart they started turning off. I tried to drive it again and it was fine for about 1/8th of a mile then got sluggish with the engine light flashing on again so I parked it. I do go down and start it every other day but it can be a couple weeks between driving it sometimes.
It could be many different things wrong but the scan tool will give you the code and a place to start. Honestly you really need to drive the car more... with the pandemic I drive my car less than before but I try to take it out once a week and drive it an hour or more on the highway. This allows the oil and other fluids to get up to operating temps and burn off any impurities that may have accumulated. It also puts a good charge on the battery however I still had to replace my battery last month because it died. Another thing with driving it often is you don't have to worry about fuel going bad... with most fuel having ethanol added it will cause problems to fuel system when it breaks down.

Once you get the scan tool and read the code let us know what it is.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
It could be many different things wrong but the scan tool will give you the code and a place to start. Honestly you really need to drive the car more... with the pandemic I drive my car less than before but I try to take it out once a week and drive it an hour or more on the highway. This allows the oil and other fluids to get up to operating temps and burn off any impurities that may have accumulated. It also puts a good charge on the battery however I still had to replace my battery last month because it died. Another thing with driving it often is you don't have to worry about fuel going bad... with most fuel having ethanol added it will cause problems to fuel system when it breaks down.

Once you get the scan tool and read the code let us know what it is.
I've been concerned about the lack of driving, driving is actually painful for me as I have back and nerve issues, I will take it out more once I figure this out. I think it's still in "limp mode" it doesn't rev to more than 3k rpms. Really hoping the scanner points to the problem, Amazon will deliver it shortly, will definitely be back to research what it says.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Sounds like old fuel and not being driven. Got out put it in sport mode and put your foot in it a little see what happens
I don't think it will let me as it's still stuck in "limp mode" it doesn't rev more than 3k rpms. I wish I could find a quick fix for getting it out of that mode, waiting for scanner delivery now. One thing that happened yesterday when driving, the sense driving came on when I got too close to another vehicle that was turning in front of me, I can't remember if it engaged avoidance braking for me but the warnings and flashed, it was shortly after that that it crapped out.
 

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I've been concerned about the lack of driving, driving is actually painful for me as I have back and nerve issues, I will take it out more once I figure this out. I think it's still in "limp mode" it doesn't rev to more than 3k rpms. Really hoping the scanner points to the problem, Amazon will deliver it shortly, will definitely be back to research what it says.
You may want to have the battery load tested also. With all the technology in our cars an insufficient battery could cause issues too. It may start and run but battery being real low could cause issues with some of the systems. Unfortunately letting the car sit w/o driving it much is bad and will end up causing more problems than if you were putting a lot of miles on it. Things will start to rot/deteriorate from lack of use quicker than they would from constant use.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
You may want to have the battery load tested also. With all the technology in our cars an insufficient battery could cause issues too. It may start and run but battery being real low could cause issues with some of the systems. Unfortunately letting the car sit w/o driving it much is bad and will end up causing more problems than if you were putting a lot of miles on it. Things will start to rot/deteriorate from lack of use quicker than they would from constant use.
Will there be a code if it's the battery? Amazon says it's two stops away with my scanner. I would actually be happy if it's just the battery as I could just change that myself.
 

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Will there be a code if it's the battery? Amazon says it's two stops away with my scanner. I would actually be happy if it's just the battery as I could just change that myself.
To my knowledge no code will show for a low/bad battery.... however a low battery may impact some of the electrical systems of the car even though it may start/run. The fact that your car sits a lot and is 3.5 years old if battery isn't bad it probably isn't going to last much longer and wouldn't hurt to have it load tested. Many auto parts stores will load test the battery and provide you a print out of the test for free.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
To my knowledge no code will show for a low/bad battery.... however a low battery may impact some of the electrical systems of the car even though it may start/run. The fact that your car sits a lot and is 3.5 years old if battery isn't bad it probably isn't going to last much longer and wouldn't hurt to have it load tested. Many auto parts stores will load test the battery and provide you a print out of the test for free.
Ok so one code came back: P0301 Cylinder 1 misfire detected. I'm looking at causes of that and there are many.
What causes the P0301 code?
  • Faulty spark plug in cylinder 1
  • No compression in cylinder 1
  • Damage or excessive wear of spark plug wires and/or coils
  • Damage or excessive wear of distributor cap (not applicable to all vehicles)
  • Damage or excessive wear of rotor button (not applicable to all vehicles)
  • Faulty fuel injector
  • Clogged EGR valves or tubes
  • Burned valves
  • Inaccurate ignition timing
  • Vacuum leaks
  • Low fuel (rare)
  • Leaking from head gasket
  • Cracked distributor cap
  • Faulty camshaft sensor
  • Faulty crankshaft sensor
  • Faulty mass air flow sensor
  • Faulty oxygen sensor
  • Faulty throttle position sensor
  • Faulty catalytic converter
  • Faulty powertrain control module

Where would you start? I've seen a couple posts about the mass air flow sensor causing "limp mode" and that is listed.
 

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Where would you start? I've seen a couple posts about the mass air flow sensor causing "limp mode" and that is listed.
I'll second what @Vegashybrid said... unfortunately your best bet is taking it to the dealer and let them determine what exactly is wrong... many of the things listed are fuel related. Hope it's something simple (inexpensive)... let us know what you find out. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Take it to the dealership. At the very least you have a bad coilpack and spark. Sounds like from sitting for so long things fuel has started eating things.
I think I'm going to try switching the coilpack to another cylinder and running the test again. Do you know if this is considered "powertrain" as it is still under warranty for that.
I'll second what @Vegashybrid said... unfortunately your best bet is taking it to the dealer and let them determine what exactly is wrong... many of the things listed are fuel related. Hope it's something simple (inexpensive)... let us know what you find out. Good luck.
Waiting for Honda to call me back now. Honda has 5 year 60k powertrain warranty. This should fall under that, right?
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I don't recommend switching coils at this point. No this falls under engine not powertrain.
This Google search says it is:

What is included in a Honda powertrain warranty?

The engine, transmission, transaxle, drivetrain, and restraint system all receive coverage under the powertrain warranty. Honda's powertrain warranty lasts for 5 years or 60,000 miles and covers all replacement parts and repairs associated with these essential components.Jul 30, 2021
 
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