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I'm sure that this will turn out to be a dumb question, but wasn't Hondata claiming 377 wtq on the stage 2 map? Wouldn't it be even higher with bolt-ons?
Hondata is full of **** on their dyno numbers, over inflated if you ask me truthfully. while I use Hondata its only because I have more tuners readily available over ktuner.
 

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Apples and Oranges dynos. Hondata uses the dynapack (which read high) vs more traditional dyno-jet (inertia) or less common Mustang (loading). All of these read differently and even two different instances of the same dyno (i.e. dynojet) will often read differently. Usually don't recommend comparing dynos....best to use same car, same dyno and better yet, same day so the conditions are identical if you're trying to compare results.

Nice article on 1addicts about different dyno's and their characteristics.

I'm sure that this will turn out to be a dumb question, but wasn't Hondata claiming 377 wtq on the stage 2 map? Wouldn't it be even higher with bolt-ons?
 

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Great power IMO.

To add on to the above about comparing dyno's, I would guess the OP is using the out of the box stage 2 tune and hasn't dug deeper into custom tuning for their specific car and mods. These various X Y Z stage tunes from these companies are going to be played safe (for the most part) and there is probably more power to be had from doing an actual custom tune. Not that tuners are being dishonest but they have probably tweaked their "stage 2" on their car on their dyno to of course put the best foot forward power wise. A little bit of tricky marketing and variance of cars and dyno's all coming in to play.

At the end of the day, are you happy when you hop in and smash the gas? That's all that matters.
 

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At the end of the day, are you happy when you hop in and smash the gas? That's all that matters.
Exalty!!! If the "butt" dyno can feel the difference and is happy that is all that matters.
 

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I don't know how you can drive the car with out a custom tune. I just currently have the PRL Downpipe and Borla Exchaust and the car is undrivable. Way too many pops, gurgles, back pressure releases. The car just sounds horrible.

And yes, I can't wait to get my CTR Turbo installed as well. Everything is all waiting in my garage until PRL releases their new intake.
 

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I don't know how you can drive the car with out a custom tune. I just currently have the PRL Downpipe and Borla Exchaust and the car is undrivable. Way too many pops, gurgles, back pressure releases. The car just sounds horrible.

And yes, I can't wait to get my CTR Turbo installed as well. Everything is all waiting in my garage until PRL releases their new intake.
The downpipe is what adds real power. I’d stick with the stock catback and that should help tremendously. It will be louder than stock, but shouldn’t be by that much. I wouldn’t worry one bit about running the CTR turbo with stock mufflers.

I’d love to see dyno readings of stock vs just catback. Maybe a little improvement at 6k plus rpm.

Now if anyone is going BIG turbo, that’s when I’d try gutting the stock mufflers. Otherwise you’re paying over $100 per 1hp gain....but at least you’d be shedding about 15lbs.

I’m trying to keep the car balanced as can be....shedding weight at the front. The Kia Stinger goes as far to mount the battery in the trunk, where the spare tire is, for example.

Happy modding everyone.
 

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Trust me I’m super happy, next is the CTR turbo setup
That’s great and will move the torque curve in the proper direction for a FWD, low-end torque monster that spits pieces of tire at my opponent starting at 2k rpm. U

I had a GTi like that. FBO, sans turbo/intercooler. Burnt thru stock clutch and aftermarket clutch in one cold season. Traded it in in great condition. Actually, that car went to auction. Dealer didn’t feel like dealing with it....very wise idea. I went to AWE and swapped tunes, then straight to the car dealers for the new at the time Maxima Platinum and never looked back.

Honestly, VW would have got my business on the 19 Rabbit if they didn’t lease so bad. I’m glad I got the Accord though. The 10 speed AT is excellent thus far and that was a great plus for the Accord. The Mazda 6 still had the old 6 AT in there and I cross shopped that as well.

Reminds me of the old family 1987 Accord LX-i in handling, which is very good. Low slung dash and all. It feels like a familiar place, surprisingly. I loved that old Accord.
 

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Apples and Oranges dynos. Hondata uses the dynapack (which read high) vs more traditional dyno-jet (inertia) or less common Mustang (loading). All of these read differently and even two different instances of the same dyno (i.e. dynojet) will often read differently. Usually don't recommend comparing dynos....best to use same car, same dyno and better yet, same day so the conditions are identical if you're trying to compare results.

Nice article on 1addicts about different dyno's and their characteristics.
...however, I’d argue that quality of the tune matters more than the type of dyno.
 
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