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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all, this is my first post.

One of the reasons, besides availability, that I chose this model and trim is the supposedly good audio system. I don't have the extra $$$ to invest thousands in a complete system so I wanted the best I could get, stock.

After a great deal of reading, I've seen most say that the audio sucks, which was much to my surprise. I "used" to install complete systems, but that was in another era, before dsp, integrated safety featurs, navi, etc... So, I have some basic questions to get started. BTW, audio, although my ears are not golden anymore, is very important to me, yet so is dollars spent in achieving it!

I have seen several articles on this forum regarding the aforementioned stock system, and how to upgrade it. From as simple as a $300 Crutchfield upgrade, to horror stories to just adding a separate amp/sub, which I have done in my last several cars.

So, I'm looking for great advice here.

Here are a few questions to get me started, as this will be diy. I watched one video where the man mostly completely disassembled the front interior to get to the amp, and was using equipment that I neither have nor can afford to simply test stock amp outputs! That is on my undoable list.

Then, a great article on Focal components, all equipment bought totaling $300! Much more to my liking.

I am NOT interested in ANC, and I understand this vehicle has that, and it causes issues.

I've read how to turn of SP (or PS), which I assume is eq and signal processing, and many say that "helped".

What I was originally gonna do, providing the system was "ok" to start with, was simply tap into the existing sub connections, use my trusty loc and amp and already to go sub that I took out of the last car. From what I've read, it seems this is not as easy in this car as you would expect.

So, basically, I want to upgrade the sound, that I am now sure will be substandard, even though I don't have the car yet.

I have no issue with upgrading speakers. But, I would like to stop short of removing/playing with the stock amp or head. There are so many features combined in those two units, that I believe a total re-do would be necessary, and I wish to avoid that. Just don't want bland sound, muffled sound, etc... I think you get the picture.

So, some questions:

1. Is it possible to upgrade the stock speakers without messing with the stock amp? If so, what is suggested? Can someone point me to a diagram of where the speakers in this vehicle are actually located? That would be my starting question.

2. I would probably want to go with Focal components, if that is possible. Can someone guide me?

3. What speakers, minimum, really "need" to be replaced? Just front, or front/rear etc... I really can only imagine how horrible a rear deck mounted sub sounds in the first place, and I would just like I said before, eliminate it, and use the loc/amp/sub/box I have now.

4. Lastly, for now, does anyone know of a shop in the Pittsburgh, PA area, that understands the complexities of these Honda's, and if I chose to, can do the work for me, althoug I prefer diy? That is the least important issue for now. I'd really rather get advice, from knowledgeable people, to do just what I'm looking for.

If you can, please post links to anything you might find useful to me.

Any/all advice is appreciated! I hope to get some good answers on how to get decent sound on a minimum budget asap.

Thank all of you so much!

Viper
 

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You can go with any components you want all focal half wtv. All your answers are in these posts and some are in the other forum. Not sure about an install in your area but this isn't difficult install. Btw I have a spare center channel speaker if your interested. Gl


Kicker 10" Comp C in factory deck + spray foaming...



 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the reply. At this point, I'm thinking of getting 2 sets of Focal speakers (Front/Rear), a RF 3.5 for center, and totally disconnecting the rear sub, and using those as inputs to my existing loc. Then, obviously to my amp/sub. I will turn off ANC, as most videos showed that I viewed.

A question I have is do I need to disable dsp/eq in the system hidden settings? Not sure about this one. I don't know why I would, since I'm just dropping in speakers basically. Can someone explain that to me? If it needs to be done or not.

I also toyed with the idea of an lcd2i. But, to keep costs down initially, I was gonna use my passive loc. Does anyone see a compelling reason why I would want an lcd2i over the passive solution.

Thanks for the links.

Viper
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Oh, one more question. Maybe two :)

The center I chose said (on Crutchfield) that I must use the inline crossover to avoid damage to the speaker. Since I assume it is already crossed stock, is this necessary?
I will buy everything from Crutchfield, which I normally wouldn't, but seeing as they give you mounting brackets and wiring harnesses, and I have a few very old credits with them, I figure why not?

I will buy everything at once, but actually do the upgrade more slowly. First thing I want to do is add my sub/amp. Which comes to the next question, what is the easiest way to disable ANC? One video showed the 2 locations, and proceeded to show to tabs to pop for one of the mics, and gently pull the headliner down and reach in to unplug the mic. The other mic was in the area of the sunglass holder. I am not sure if the model I'm getting is set up this way, but, he did manage to create a visible crease in the headliner. I don't want to do that.

So, is there a more direct way to disable ANC? One video I saw had he guy remove the glove box, etc, and behind there was the ANC module, which he unplugged. I am actually at the point in my life where I hate tearing apart cars anymore. But, if this is the "best" way, that is the one I would go for. Advice needed here.

Again, any compelling reasons to get an active loc like the lcd2i? I am sure I will try it out without it first, but back in my day, those types of things didn't even exist. So, curiosity is getting the better of me now!

TIA for any advice.

Viper
 

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you disable the anc by removing the glove box. The reason to use a dsp/lci2 is for the much better sound quality. No you shouldnt tap the sub for signal you should use the front speakers. ALL of this information is in the threads provided. Read them several times before moving on ( i did before installing my ssytem.) If it says use the included crossovers use them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thank you again for replying. I will exhaustively read the above linked posts in much detail tomorrow. But for now, let me ask just a couple of things.

First off, I am seriously going to consider the lc2i for my bass, so thank you for that. I am sure the sq is excellent, from the past experience I've had with Audio Control products.

One of the articles you listed mention putting a comp c in the factory rear deck with foam. I do not wish to do this. I would much rather have my usual sub box/amp, just adding the lc2i.

I have viewed a few vids on YouTube, and from those, I have the following questions.
1. Why tap, what I think you mean by front speakers, is just the mid? Or, is it mid/twt as well? And, I'm assuming I have to do this on both sides. From past experience, I am not quite sure exactly where to do the tap, and then run both lines to the trunk. Is there an easy and not messy way to do this? If it is in the videos above, can you point out which one contains were to tap, so that tomorrow I can narrow in on that? I'm thinking that the tap would have to be done under the dash, so as having the wires already in the car, which can easily be run back to trunk. If you tapped at the doors, when you replaced the door speakers, you would have the nasty time of running the tap from the door into the car via that rubber sealing accordion looking weather seal. I've dealt with that in the past, and it wasn't fun, but, perhaps it is easier on newer cars. What is your advice on this?
2 Firewall question for amp wiring: I understand that you should NOT use existing holes in a Honda that already have wires going thru them. Do you know of a video of the correct place to drill for 4 ga power wire? Can you point me to a vid of that?
3. Lastly, one of the vids I viewed on YT shows a guy, and he made 3 separate vids, on how to replace door/rear speakers, another for center speaker, and lastly for the sub, exactly the way I would do it as he is using the lc2i as well. Big question here: He simply unplugged the factory sub and used that as input to the lc2i, and continued from there. I am tending to believe you are right on how to do this though. He is going to get a filtered signal, whereas, tapping the front will give full range, and let the lc2i sort things out. But he was so insistent that it sounded great. I am thinking he is actually missing some notes.

Again, thanks for the good info.

Have a nice night.

Viper
 

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Ok, I have an EXL 2.0. The factory system consists of 10 channels. Front and rear, left/right mid/ tweeter centre channel and sub. All getting different signals. To get a full spectrum signal you need to get signal from the front doors mid/tweeter and the sub, and sum them together. If you want to go audiocontrol you can, but it won't fix the factory dsp/trickery that is fed by the factory amp to try n make the cheap speakers sound good. Which does a terrible job if you ask me. Lc7i or dq-61 will do the trick. But a DSP with an input EQ will do the trick the best. I've tried every method possible in this car and all were trash sounding. Until I went full commitment. Replacing speakers or adding amps will not make it sound good. I can go on and on but I will just post a link to my build. There is no other accord online that I have seen that has gone to my depth for car audio. Just a warning my sound system probly cost more than what my car is worth and I doubt that you want to take it that far. But in my build there is alot of info in what I had to do to get proper signal to feed my amps. If you have more questions don't hesitate to ask.

 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Ok, I have an EXL 2.0. The factory system consists of 10 channels. Front and rear, left/right mid/ tweeter centre channel and sub. All getting different signals. To get a full spectrum signal you need to get signal from the front doors mid/tweeter and the sub, and sum them together. If you want to go audiocontrol you can, but it won't fix the factory dsp/trickery that is fed by the factory amp to try n make the cheap speakers sound good. Which does a terrible job if you ask me. Lc7i or dq-61 will do the trick. But a DSP with an input EQ will do the trick the best. I've tried every method possible in this car and all were trash sounding. Until I went full commitment. Replacing speakers or adding amps will not make it sound good. I can go on and on but I will just post a link to my build. There is no other accord online that I have seen that has gone to my depth for car audio. Just a warning my sound system probly cost more than what my car is worth and I doubt that you want to take it that far. But in my build there is alot of info in what I had to do to get proper signal to feed my amps. If you have more questions don't hesitate to ask.


All I can say is "WOW!" 2 things become very evident to me from that post of your build. 1. You are an audiosaurus like I used to be in my much younger days; I'm an old man now, and ears are no longer golden, but I still would love to hear that! HAS to sound awesome, and 2. You have WAY more free cash than I do!

Yes, in a dream world, your type of system is ideal, but in the reality I am imposed to live in, that, my friend, is a no go for me! For the obvious cost/time issues involved. Even when I did my own installs, both for myself, and friends, I have never gone to that length. I did my thing during the 80's, 90's, and into the early 2000's. The equipment you have just wasn't around then, and also, neither was the knowledge of how to use it. I commend you on that system. Enjoy it to death! But, for me, time and money are completely of concern. That would be a dream fun car for me, but as I only can own 1 car, and need it asap, there are many, many reasons why your type of install is a no go for me. ****, a stereo shop I used to deal with sometimes would bust over that! Like I said, back in my day, that kind of equipment didn't exist. I am sure it sounds like a dream though. One thing always lacking, either in factory installs or my own, or professionally done, was the solid presence of mid-bass. That is a tricky proposition in cars to say the least. Looks like you have that area covered, in spades.

I am lucky I even can afford this car, let alone put "that" in it! TBH with you guys, I am now an old man, who still thinks young. I am actually on a SSDI for health issues (hence the reference to only being able to own 1 car), so I have a shitty job, because I can't legally earn much money. Using my car IS my job, and although driving around in that would be more than a dream come true, and I agree with everything you said, it is just not doable for me.

My goal: improve the sound to the point where I can stand it....no more, no less. In my case, a dream like your install is just that...a dream. But I am indeed very happy for you. To have the time and resources for that type of system is awesome!

Thanks for posting.

Viper

BTW: Back in my late teens, I had subscribed to "Car audio and electroincs", and I believe another one, who's name I forget at the moment, but was something like "Care Stereo Review", and eagerly anticipated getting those magazines monthly. The "best" systems I ever saw in them couldn't even approach yours, that's the point I want to make!
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
As far as tapping into the factory system do it at the amp with this harness ⬇ no cutting or molesting your factory wires.


And use a 9 conductor to run signal to what ever your using as an LOC, I had to run 2

ROCKRIX 20-Feet 9-Conductor Speaker Cable, 18AWG Pure OFC 9 Wire Hiding Speaker Wire Tinned Copper, Ultra-Flex and Easy Peel Matte Jacket Audio Cable for Car Marine Home Theatre System Amazon.com: ROCKRIX 20-Feet 9-Conductor Speaker Cable, 18AWG Pure OFC 9 Wire Hiding Speaker Wire Tinned Copper, Ultra-Flex and Easy Peel Matte Jacket Audio Cable for Car Marine Home Theatre System : Electronics

***
Also: I appreciate you links to the amp bypass and 9 conductor cables. But, using that presumes I am gonna add all of the necessary amps. Can you tell me, if my last post get's approved, the, and I HATE to say this, what would be the least expensive way to upgrade the sound, without going to your extreme, and using the factory amp for 9 speakers, and my own amp for my sub box?
Thank You!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
As far as tapping into the factory system do it at the amp with this harness ⬇ no cutting or molesting your factory wires.


And use a 9 conductor to run signal to what ever your using as an LOC, I had to run 2

ROCKRIX 20-Feet 9-Conductor Speaker Cable, 18AWG Pure OFC 9 Wire Hiding Speaker Wire Tinned Copper, Ultra-Flex and Easy Peel Matte Jacket Audio Cable for Car Marine Home Theatre System Amazon.com: ROCKRIX 20-Feet 9-Conductor Speaker Cable, 18AWG Pure OFC 9 Wire Hiding Speaker Wire Tinned Copper, Ultra-Flex and Easy Peel Matte Jacket Audio Cable for Car Marine Home Theatre System : Electronics

Another question, sorry. I revised the 2 audio control products you listed. You went on to say that
Ok, I have an EXL 2.0. The factory system consists of 10 channels. Front and rear, left/right mid/ tweeter centre channel and sub. All getting different signals. To get a full spectrum signal you need to get signal from the front doors mid/tweeter and the sub, and sum them together. If you want to go audiocontrol you can, but it won't fix the factory dsp/trickery that is fed by the factory amp to try n make the cheap speakers sound good. Which does a terrible job if you ask me. Lc7i or dq-61 will do the trick. But a DSP with an input EQ will do the trick the best. I've tried every method possible in this car and all were trash sounding. Until I went full commitment. Replacing speakers or adding amps will not make it sound good. I can go on and on but I will just post a link to my build. There is no other accord online that I have seen that has gone to my depth for car audio. Just a warning my sound system probly cost more than what my car is worth and I doubt that you want to take it that far. But in my build there is alot of info in what I had to do to get proper signal to feed my amps. If you have more questions don't hesitate to ask.

I reviewed both pieces of equipment you listed, but you went on to mention a dsp with input eq as the best option. Not sure what I am looking for here. Can you give examples?

Also, new to the game for me is the host of safety and other features that are also now tied into the factory system. Those didn't exist back in my day. With your massive install, did they maintain that functionality as well, and if so, how?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Folks, I know we have been discussing improving the stock audio, but I have a really quick question that I need answered asap, and I hope you can help. Barring a system like was posted by ItsJustAnAccord, and me doing the work myself, can I "improve" the sq of this system for around $1000, give or take a little. I finally got my insurance deposit on my totaled car, and the dealer is checking if the one I want, out of 6 dealerships I've looked at, is still available.

The answer to this is very important....

Please reply asap if you can.

Viper
 

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My bad I just woke up,
All I can say is "WOW!" 2 things become very evident to me from that post of your build. 1. You are an audiosaurus like I used to be in my much younger days; I'm an old man now, and ears are no longer golden, but I still would love to hear that! HAS to sound awesome, and 2. You have WAY more free cash than I do!

Yes, in a dream world, your type of system is ideal, but in the reality I am imposed to live in, that, my friend, is a no go for me! For the obvious cost/time issues involved. Even when I did my own installs, both for myself, and friends, I have never gone to that length. I did my thing during the 80's, 90's, and into the early 2000's. The equipment you have just wasn't around then, and also, neither was the knowledge of how to use it. I commend you on that system. Enjoy it to death! But, for me, time and money are completely of concern. That would be a dream fun car for me, but as I only can own 1 car, and need it asap, there are many, many reasons why your type of install is a no go for me. ****, a stereo shop I used to deal with sometimes would bust over that! Like I said, back in my day, that kind of equipment didn't exist. I am sure it sounds like a dream though. One thing always lacking, either in factory installs or my own, or professionally done, was the solid presence of mid-bass. That is a tricky proposition in cars to say the least. Looks like you have that area covered, in spades.

I am lucky I even can afford this car, let alone put "that" in it! TBH with you guys, I am now an old man, who still thinks young. I am actually on a SSDI for health issues (hence the reference to only being able to own 1 car), so I have a shitty job, because I can't legally earn much money. Using my car IS my job, and although driving around in that would be more than a dream come true, and I agree with everything you said, it is just not doable for me.

My goal: improve the sound to the point where I can stand it....no more, no less. In my case, a dream like your install is just that...a dream. But I am indeed very happy for you. To have the time and resources for that type of system is awesome!

Thanks for posting.

Viper

BTW: Back in my late teens, I had subscribed to "Car audio and electroincs", and I believe another one, who's name I forget at the moment, but was something like "Care Stereo Review", and eagerly anticipated getting those magazines monthly. The "best" systems I ever saw in them couldn't even approach yours, that's the point I want to make!
Thanx, took me around 8 months to piece that together, research, and more research. I did the whole replace speakers thing, then amplify the speakers thing and it just didn't sound right to me. Between natural car nulls and signal issues. I had to go back to the drawing board and start over.
 

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***
Also: I appreciate you links to the amp bypass and 9 conductor cables. But, using that presumes I am gonna add all of the necessary amps. Can you tell me, if my last post get's approved, the, and I HATE to say this, what would be the least expensive way to upgrade the sound, without going to your extreme, and using the factory amp for 9 speakers, and my own amp for my sub box?
Thank You!
Lc2i will only work for the bass amp if you tap into the rear subwoofer. The thing with the 10 speaker system that it sends different signals, tweeters gets highs, the 6.5s get mids, and the subwoofer gets lows. If that makes sense. The key is combining all these signals to get 1 full spectrum left and right signal. But if you get the accord with the non premium 8 speaker system it's extremely easy, you'll get the full signal from just the front doors. That one only has 4 channels left and right front rear. And your lc2i will work.
 

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Another question, sorry. I revised the 2 audio control products you listed. You went on to say that


I reviewed both pieces of equipment you listed, but you went on to mention a dsp with input eq as the best option. Not sure what I am looking for here. Can you give examples?

Also, new to the game for me is the host of safety and other features that are also now tied into the factory system. Those didn't exist back in my day. With your massive install, did they maintain that functionality as well, and if so, how?
The factory chimes come from some hidden speaker in the dash separated from the car audio. So there's no need to worry about that.
 

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Folks, I know we have been discussing improving the stock audio, but I have a really quick question that I need answered asap, and I hope you can help. Barring a system like was posted by ItsJustAnAccord, and me doing the work myself, can I "improve" the sq of this system for around $1000, give or take a little. I finally got my insurance deposit on my totaled car, and the dealer is checking if the one I want, out of 6 dealerships I've looked at, is still available.

The answer to this is very important....

Please reply asap if you can.

Viper
I'm sure you can get an acceptable sound system with 1k especially if you going to DIY. And if you already have some equipment even better
 

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A DSP with an input EQ will be from Helix, but those will blow your whole budget. I settled with the Helix M4DSP which is a 4 channel amp with a 10 channel DSP.


They also have stand alone DSPs


But those are all expensive. But if you shop around at DiyMobileAudio.com Car Stereo Forum I'm sure you can piece together a really nice system with the budget you have.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Well, I found a a YT video,
, that I have not completely watched yet, but I think is fantastic! Pretty much exactly what I want to do.

This is my crutchfield cart, Crutchfield Cart.

I hope you can see the items. I do need to add a few things, as I need amp wiring, and splitters for going to 3 amps. I already have my own sub.

Plus, I wanna get the harness and speaker wire (multi conductor), that was posted on this thread.

I would like you guys in the know to look it over. Max budget now is $1500. If I can get everything for that price, I'll do a complete system, although I know the task for me will be daunting.

I actually get the car tomorrow. So, I will see how horrible it sounds stock. Also will turn off SP (or PS) as I saw in a video, and compare the difference.

I really didn't want to buy 3 amps though. Ideally, just one for all speakers, and 1 for sub, but I guess that is not doable?

I am not interested in DSP/Time alignment.

Can anyone explain how I can completely re-do the entire system, keeping all car functionality, like voice navigation, using fewer (and possibly less expensive) components?

I await you advice.

Thanks everyone.

Viper
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Also want to mention that I have not ever used a product like the lc7i, so I lack basic understanding of how I'm going to hook up 10 speakers using the equipment I have chosen. Feel free to suggest other equipment that you would think is better, but only if it keeps the grand total lower, although the products you suggest might be better suited. Unfortunately, I am not made of money :)
I can't see your cart. Your going to have to post each item. For us to see. Which model accord did you get.
Got 2019 Accord EXL. Will be finishing the deal tomorrow. I'll re-post the parts list in a different format.
 
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