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Ok, I have an EXL 2.0. The factory system consists of 10 channels. Front and rear, left/right mid/ tweeter centre channel and sub. All getting different signals. To get a full spectrum signal you need to get signal from the front doors mid/tweeter and the sub, and sum them together. If you want to go audiocontrol you can, but it won't fix the factory dsp/trickery that is fed by the factory amp to try n make the cheap speakers sound good. Which does a terrible job if you ask me. Lc7i or dq-61 will do the trick. But a DSP with an input EQ will do the trick the best. I've tried every method possible in this car and all were trash sounding. Until I went full commitment. Replacing speakers or adding amps will not make it sound good. I can go on and on but I will just post a link to my build. There is no other accord online that I have seen that has gone to my depth for car audio. Just a warning my sound system probly cost more than what my car is worth and I doubt that you want to take it that far. But in my build there is alot of info in what I had to do to get proper signal to feed my amps. If you have more questions don't hesitate to ask.

 

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My bad I just woke up,
All I can say is "WOW!" 2 things become very evident to me from that post of your build. 1. You are an audiosaurus like I used to be in my much younger days; I'm an old man now, and ears are no longer golden, but I still would love to hear that! HAS to sound awesome, and 2. You have WAY more free cash than I do!

Yes, in a dream world, your type of system is ideal, but in the reality I am imposed to live in, that, my friend, is a no go for me! For the obvious cost/time issues involved. Even when I did my own installs, both for myself, and friends, I have never gone to that length. I did my thing during the 80's, 90's, and into the early 2000's. The equipment you have just wasn't around then, and also, neither was the knowledge of how to use it. I commend you on that system. Enjoy it to death! But, for me, time and money are completely of concern. That would be a dream fun car for me, but as I only can own 1 car, and need it asap, there are many, many reasons why your type of install is a no go for me. ****, a stereo shop I used to deal with sometimes would bust over that! Like I said, back in my day, that kind of equipment didn't exist. I am sure it sounds like a dream though. One thing always lacking, either in factory installs or my own, or professionally done, was the solid presence of mid-bass. That is a tricky proposition in cars to say the least. Looks like you have that area covered, in spades.

I am lucky I even can afford this car, let alone put "that" in it! TBH with you guys, I am now an old man, who still thinks young. I am actually on a SSDI for health issues (hence the reference to only being able to own 1 car), so I have a shitty job, because I can't legally earn much money. Using my car IS my job, and although driving around in that would be more than a dream come true, and I agree with everything you said, it is just not doable for me.

My goal: improve the sound to the point where I can stand it....no more, no less. In my case, a dream like your install is just that...a dream. But I am indeed very happy for you. To have the time and resources for that type of system is awesome!

Thanks for posting.

Viper

BTW: Back in my late teens, I had subscribed to "Car audio and electroincs", and I believe another one, who's name I forget at the moment, but was something like "Care Stereo Review", and eagerly anticipated getting those magazines monthly. The "best" systems I ever saw in them couldn't even approach yours, that's the point I want to make!
Thanx, took me around 8 months to piece that together, research, and more research. I did the whole replace speakers thing, then amplify the speakers thing and it just didn't sound right to me. Between natural car nulls and signal issues. I had to go back to the drawing board and start over.
 

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***
Also: I appreciate you links to the amp bypass and 9 conductor cables. But, using that presumes I am gonna add all of the necessary amps. Can you tell me, if my last post get's approved, the, and I HATE to say this, what would be the least expensive way to upgrade the sound, without going to your extreme, and using the factory amp for 9 speakers, and my own amp for my sub box?
Thank You!
Lc2i will only work for the bass amp if you tap into the rear subwoofer. The thing with the 10 speaker system that it sends different signals, tweeters gets highs, the 6.5s get mids, and the subwoofer gets lows. If that makes sense. The key is combining all these signals to get 1 full spectrum left and right signal. But if you get the accord with the non premium 8 speaker system it's extremely easy, you'll get the full signal from just the front doors. That one only has 4 channels left and right front rear. And your lc2i will work.
 

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Another question, sorry. I revised the 2 audio control products you listed. You went on to say that


I reviewed both pieces of equipment you listed, but you went on to mention a dsp with input eq as the best option. Not sure what I am looking for here. Can you give examples?

Also, new to the game for me is the host of safety and other features that are also now tied into the factory system. Those didn't exist back in my day. With your massive install, did they maintain that functionality as well, and if so, how?
The factory chimes come from some hidden speaker in the dash separated from the car audio. So there's no need to worry about that.
 

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Folks, I know we have been discussing improving the stock audio, but I have a really quick question that I need answered asap, and I hope you can help. Barring a system like was posted by ItsJustAnAccord, and me doing the work myself, can I "improve" the sq of this system for around $1000, give or take a little. I finally got my insurance deposit on my totaled car, and the dealer is checking if the one I want, out of 6 dealerships I've looked at, is still available.

The answer to this is very important....

Please reply asap if you can.

Viper
I'm sure you can get an acceptable sound system with 1k especially if you going to DIY. And if you already have some equipment even better
 

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A DSP with an input EQ will be from Helix, but those will blow your whole budget. I settled with the Helix M4DSP which is a 4 channel amp with a 10 channel DSP.


They also have stand alone DSPs


But those are all expensive. But if you shop around at DiyMobileAudio.com Car Stereo Forum I'm sure you can piece together a really nice system with the budget you have.
 

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Like I stated previously the EXL has the "premium sound system" 10 different channels but all u need is 5 of them. Front door L/R mid/high and sub. But if you want to keep the navigation prompts that only comes from the centre channel. That's a problem unless you keep the factory signal going to an aftermarket speaker withought amplifying. Or you run that signal to a separate loc just for your centre channel.
 

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For the LC7I you will need to run the signal coming from your factory amp, front left and right mid/high (midwoofer/tweeter) and subwoofer. The LC7i will take that signal and sum them together and make a full range signal for your left and right channels. There's little jumpers inside the lc71 I believe to mix the signals together. You would have to read the instruction manual. I personally don't like audiocontrol units or LOCs for that matter. But that's just me. The LC7I will then turn them signals to 6 low level outputs (RCAs) to run to your amps. But that will not include your center channel if you want to keep the navigation prompts.
 

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The wiring harness comes off of your amp the side you are disconnecting are the wires that run to your factory speakers. They are not labeled but the labeling will be included with the wiring harness. I would run new wire for the speakers but if you don't want to you could use the factory wire. But it is cheap and I dont know if it would handle the load. As far as power wire find a wiring kit for multiple amps. 4 gauge is pushing it on the smaller side. I would run 0 gauge for 3 amps. And only use OFC wire don't use that CCA crap. Honestly there is alot involved to the install on our cars I would gather everything up and have some else do it. I didn't do my own I don't have the time nor the patience. And yes to get to the rear deck speakers you need to take apart the whole back end.

KnuKonceptz Kolossus Flex 0 Gauge OFC Dual Power Amp Installation Wiring Kit Amazon.com

But you would need a 3 way fuse block like this.

KnuKonceptz Bassik High Current 3 Way 0 Gauge Fuse Distribution Block - 200 Amp Amazon.com

Or you could do 1 5 channel amp like this to minimize the amount of amps


That way there is only 2 amps involved. Then you could probly get away with 4 gauge like this

Recoil PCK4D True 4 Gauge 99.99% Oxygen Free Copper Car Audio Dual Amplifiers Complete Installation Wiring Kits Amazon.com

But I like kne knukonceptz stuff better.

You said what I would use instead of the AudioControl stuff. A DSP with an input EQ like the Helix I first mentioned. But like you said it's out of your budget.
 

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Addressing the amp you posted. Yes, it's 5 channel, but only 4 are low power, and the fifth looks to be meant for a sub. Keeping in mind that I wish to keep the center channel, and also have a separate high power sub amp, would a six low power on all channels work, (the regular 4 + 1 for the center), plus a high power monoblock for the sub? That would leave me with 2 amps not 3. Am I correct on this? That would also cut down in install real estate.
I was thinking 5 channel for your components and your sub. Then the small 2 channel for your centre. Remember you need a separate source signal for your centre channel for your voice prompts and navigation which only come from the factory center channel. But if you want more power for your sub maybe the jp 5 channel will better suite


Still am a bit confused on the lc7i connections. What exactly is its input (where does it, in this car) come from (and what harness do I need to do that), and also the output, same question on harness
Lc7i takes your high level inputs (speaker wires from the factory amp) using the amp bypass harness I mentioned earlier and combines the signals that are separated by the factory amp (mid frequency=6.5 woofer, high frequency =tweeter, low frequency= subwoofer) then turns that into 6 full range low level outputs (RCAs) for your amp. 2 for front components 2 for rear components and 2 for your sub. That does not include your centre channel which like I said has your voice promps and navigation promps.

Circuit component Product Sleeve Electronic component Computer hardware

Circuit component Font Electronic component Audio equipment Electronic engineering



What I may end up doing as the first part of an upgrade is to tap off the front, I'm supposing left and right, but correct me if I'm wrong, and add a sub with amp and lc2i. I'm sure the highs are not gonna sparkle, so next alteration would be upgrade front components, using factory amp.

This seems the simplest of all worlds to me. This is not the solution I would prefer in my last car, but being financially challenged, and not possessing the energy to do what's needed on the rear deck, I don't see many options.
You can do this but you will have 0 high frequencies. I don't even have rear speakers. I pulled them out. I don't miss music coming from behind me. You can keep them connected to the factory amp. But taking apart the rear deck is absolutely nesseray for sound treatment (to me). The dear deck rattles soon much. Especially with an after market sub. I have so much sound treatment back there. Dynamat extream on the metal shelf, and CCF (closed cell foam) more Dynamat and ccf on the bottom of the plastic shelf, where the car seat hooks are (the amount of bass I have makes those things jump), tesa tape on any wiring or clips or just anything that can rattle, and I also used sound skin baffle rings (which are thick foam strips) to separate the back windown and rear sheft and 3rd break light. You should also consider sound treating your front doors to get the best performance out of your front components. I did practically the same thing to the front doors along with covering the door cavities with 1/2" ABS plastic. But that was extream to separate the back waves from the front sound waves of my midbasses. There's 2 big cavities and the plastic had to be cut to shape, heated to be molded, then bolted down. My car probly has like 100lbs of sound treatment


And, to it's just a Honda, how long was your car in the install bay? Very curious on this.
My cars was in the install bay for almost 2 months. Should have been less but I told them to take their time and do it right. No expense was spared. And there's only 2 guys in that shop and had other cars they were working on and other cars with appointments and walking asking to do little jobs. I didn't rush them. They did an excellent job for less than half the price other shops quoted me. I planed the whole thing and bought everything beforehand from speakers, wiring, amps, batteries, everything that went into my car i chose and planed for months. I already had a system in it. I replaced all the speakers had amps n subs but it sounded like crap to me so I took extream measures. Like I said before between the the first I stall and the current install and the stuff I bought that didn't make the cut for this install that's collecting dust in my garage I spent well over what this car is worth. Good luck bro.
 

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THANKS SOOO MUCH FOR REPLYING...I WASN'T EVEN GONNA CHECK TONIGHT BECAUSE I'M EXAUSTED...AGAIN.

First off, I got the car today, and here are my first (and final) impressions of the stock system. And yes, I did turn the SP off. Now, here goes, just my own opinion, compared to how my last car sounded.

Last car had an infinity system, I presume made by Harmon, but had that sub in the middle of the deck, and lacked bass. I used a shitty amp, a good sub, at least for me in a sealed box, and a regular, non powered loc. The car, for 7 years, was great sounding to me.

Now, to this car...well, to say that the sound was lackluster sounds like an improvement to what my ears think of it. IMO, there is NO bass, mid, low, sub or otherwise. And, the highs suck as well. Very disappointed with it. The thoughts I'm gonna be coming to were in my mind before I picked up the car.

Also, the fact that they even call that a subwoofer is laughable to me. Jesus, that is a misnomer if I have ever heard one.

So, here are my thoughts as of this morning (before getting the car), and now exactly the same afterwards. I would like all of your, and everyone's advice on this.

As you know, I have 3 main things against me. 1. Health issues. 2. Financial deficiency. 3. A need to do anything I do myself, as I cannot afford to pay a shop for what is going to be described as a simple install.

All I would like to do is add an lc2i, new, good power amp, and use my same sub/box.

Now, all the questions.

1. I am stumped on exactly what inputs go into the lc2i, so without a knowledge of that, I cannot even begin. Having driven a car with bass that was enough for me, driving home from the dealership made me feel naked, literally.

2. I cannot do all of the work to completely bypass the factory amp and wire in all new speakers and amps, period. So, going with that thought, here is what I've been thinking since I got up this morning.

a) First figure out how to add the bass I want. Your pics for lci7 and bypassing the amp were great info, but I just can't do all of that, mainly for health issues.
So, I was thinking, is there a CHANCE that if I find the right front components with high sensitivity with such low factory amp power, will it make a difference. IMO, it HAS to, that is how poorly I perceived factory setup.
b) If what I said in a) would make a difference, I'd like to find the best possible components for bring out the most given the low power. Yes, I know that is a stretch, but, there has to be an improvement, a and that is something I can do. Taking out the rear seat and deck cover is just un-doable for me. So, I see so many people using Focal components. Are they sensitive enough to add any semblance o of especially treble, which I feel I had none of, and as far as the mids that come with them, will they produce better (again, HAS to) sound that what is in there now. I need to continue using the factory amp. I am in no way concerned about the changing the center at the moment. Gosh, I don't think I even heard it anyway.
c) Again, back to speaker sensitivity at low power. I already know from experience that you are not gonna get thumpy mid-bass without hefty power, unless physics and the design of the current offering o of components has really been re-engineered since "my" day.
d) Finally, presuming that a) is possible, and I hope that it is, I would like suggestions on what speakers to get. I NEED to hear the highs, which I felt were less than lacking. Also, the mids were bland as well, audible, but not nearly what I am used to.

I went from my old car, last driven on 7/9, which imo slammed pretty good, to this???? The fact that the word premium is even used to describe it baffles me.

So, what I really need are answers to 1. and a) and d) above. I know that 1. will add the needed bass. And, I can do some sound deadening on the interior of the rear deck, but disassembling the entire back end is gonna be out of the question. Also, I can add any treatment for sound that your guys advise, as long as I don't have to completely disassemble the car! And, if I am gonna have the door panels off, let me know where to put/what kind of sound deadening material to use.

There has to be a reason that people are using the focal 165 series. But, I am REALLY hesitant to pull the trigger on anything at this point until I get the much needed advice from you guys. No, it will not live up to grand expectations, but, even a minuscule improvement, throughout the entire frequency range, is much needed.

Again, instructions like you gave for the lc7i would be great for the lc2i. And, I really don't know how to find the "best" speakers to get "ok" sound out of low power. And imo, what is in there now does not even come close to "ok" in my opinion.

Actually, I was expecting disappointment to begin with with all of the reading I've done here and elsewhere. So much so, that I think that using the word disappointed sounds like better that what I actually experienced. < disappointed!

So, will you guys help me with the questions I've asked here?

If the only way to get the signal for the lc2i is to take the door panels off, and I am not sure if I need left and right, and tap into the wires for tweeter and mid there (will that be full range, or do I need some other signal as well), then I'll just replace the door speakers and tweeters at the same time.

At this point though, besides equipment for the bass, I have no clue what "better' door speakers to choose. I am not even worried about those in the back deck.

Sorry this has been long, but, I felt a full disclosure of my impressions were in order.

I will wait with baited breath for your opinions.

Thanks again, so much,

Viper

P.S. Please mention any equipment I might want to look at or need and forgot about. Thank you.
If you want to keep it simple and cost efficient lc2i for just bass you can grab signal from the factory sub. I've heard ppl say they got signal from the left and right mid in the back. But I'd rather get it from the sub. But that's just to feed a subwoofer. You can replace the door speakers with pretty much any component 6.5, with a 3/4 tweeter. Going with a higher end brand is gonna do absolutely nothing if your not using an aftermarket amplifier. I used some cheap kicker KS something or another. Don't waste big money on good components if your going to use the factory amp. Improvement in sound was minimal doing that but you could turn it up a little more withough a bunch of distortion. If you replace the centre channel with a 3.5 coaxial speaker actually makes the most difference but you gotta take apart the whole front end to get to it. I wouldn't bother with the rear speakers it won't make much of a difference if your not going to amplify. So recap, front components, centre 3.5 coaxial, lc2i pro will help with the bass rolloff get the signal from the sub, forget about upgrading the rear. Sound treatment is to minimize rattle pretty much. So anywhere 2 hard surfaces meet. In the doors where ever the plastic from the door card meets the metal from the door. But since your not amplifying your doors I don't think your going to have to worry. That will get your cost and work load down significantly.
 

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You need to get the signal from the front speaker channels. Or else you will loose your phone call audio. If you keep the centre channel connected to stock you will keep phone calls there only. The rear signal is extreamly processed and will sound terrible amplified. You need to sum front, mids and tweeter along with the sub to get a full spectrum signal. For the left and the right.
 

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okay got it. I thought the factory rear speakers were damaged or something, turns out they are just like this. Okay in this scenario I will loose the front and rear speaker control in the settings(it doesn't matter to me ) and should should I keep the balance dot in the center or all they up to front speakers ? and then I have to run new wires again to front speakers ? and one more stupid question my amp is [email protected] for 4 channels and one pair of speaker(Focals) is also exact [email protected] so this is a good approach ? if I set gain too high accidently will it blow my speakers ? JBL is [email protected] so there is 15 watts and 1Ohm difference so it can bear if more input will be provided, right ?

One last thing, now LC7i and 2 amps are consuming power from battery car, do i need a spare battery for this ? When does one need a spare battery ? (just a general rule of thumb)
"Balance dot" is fine in the middle, because you sub channel is considered rear. So if you fade forward you'll loose that signal. Yes you will have to run new wires to your speakers. Power and impedance wise, you will be fine as long as you set your gain correctly. Look up "setting gains on amp" on YouTube and there is hundreds of videos on the subject. I personally like the oscilloscope way. And you are not running alot of power so you'll be fine with just one battery. But the OEM battery in our Hondas suck. I'd replace it with a good AGM. I'll post links on the oscilloscope and battery I use


2 in 1 Handheld Oscilloscope Multimeter, New Update Professional LED Oscilloscope Multimeter with 2.5 Msps High Sampling, Automatic Waveform Capture Function,DC/AC Voltage/Current Test https://a.co/d/3xDOura
 
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