[Pittviper]

JL Audio JD400/4 x 2
AudioControl LC7i (Black) x 1
Focal ASE 165 x 2
Kicker 47KSC3504 x 1 (will only be using 1 speaker though)
AudioControl ACR-1 x 1

I lack the basic understanding of exactly what the lc7i does, and how I can use it, with 3 amps, to feed 10 speakers. I'm sure I'll have a better understanding once I watch the entire video (>1hr), but am a bit burned out now today.

I also will be buying the harness and multi-conductor wiring mentioned on this thread.

Can you explain to me, in brief, how all of this will work together, if it will that is, and also retain all car functionality. Also, please suggest anything I am missing.

Thanks a lot,

Viper

 

[ItsonlyAHonda]

Like I stated previously the EXL has the "premium sound system" 10 different channels but all u need is 5 of them. Front door L/R mid/high and sub. But if you want to keep the navigation prompts that only comes from the centre channel. That's a problem unless you keep the factory signal going to an aftermarket speaker withought amplifying. Or you run that signal to a separate loc just for your centre channel.

 

[ItsonlyAHonda]

For the LC7I you will need to run the signal coming from your factory amp, front left and right mid/high (midwoofer/tweeter) and subwoofer. The LC7i will take that signal and sum them together and make a full range signal for your left and right channels. There's little jumpers inside the lc71 I believe to mix the signals together. You would have to read the instruction manual. I personally don't like audiocontrol units or LOCs for that matter. But that's just me. The LC7I will then turn them signals to 6 low level outputs (RCAs) to run to your amps. But that will not include your center channel if you want to keep the navigation prompts.

 

[ItsonlyAHonda]

If your going to use the passive crossovers from them components you only need 4 channels for that. So only 1 4 channel amp will be needed, but a separate amp for your centre channel.

 

[ItsonlyAHonda]

Ditch one of the 4 channel amps and get a 2 channel amp with a high level input just for your centre channel like this ⬇. You'll just have to run your centre channel signal straight into the amp and amplify that signal.

Infinity Primus 6002A

Compact 2-channel car amplifier — 60 watts RMS x 2

www.crutchfield.com

 

[Pittviper]

For the LC7I you will need to run the signal coming from your factory amp, front left and right mid/high (midwoofer/tweeter) and subwoofer. The LC7i will take that signal and sum them together and make a full range signal for your left and right channels. There's little jumpers inside the lc71 I believe to mix the signals together. You would have to read the instruction manual. I personally don't like audiocontrol units or LOCs for that matter. But that's just me. The LC7I will then turn them signals to 6 low level outputs (RCAs) to run to your amps. But that will not include your center channel if you want to keep the navigation prompts.

Thanks,
I have a good question. Given your dislike for audiocontrol products because of this feature, what would YOU use instead of the lc7i?
I'm very curious. Remember, lower cost but good sq is the goal.

Viper

 

[Pittviper]

Ditch one of the 4 channel amps and get a 2 channel amp with a high level input just for your centre channel like this ⬇. You'll just have to run your centre channel signal straight into the amp and amplify that signal.

Infinity Primus 6002A

Compact 2-channel car amplifier — 60 watts RMS x 2

www.crutchfield.com

Now a big question: So if I get the lc7i, or something that the other commenter may mention, and I get that little amp, (now the stupidity in this area is gonna show!), will I still be using my factory speaker wiring. Also, to whomever, what "other" accessories" do I need. I was thinking of a single 4 guage power wire, going to a splitter, and then separate wires to the components that need power (at this poing, lc7i, 1 4 channel amp, and the amp specified for the center channel). It's a cheap amp, so I have no issue getting it. I would like to retain the full functionality of the system.

What, obviously, I'm confused about is speaker wiring. I know how to run power, and split/fuse, etc, but I am questioning how I am gonna wire the speakers. The aftermarket amp bypass harness, does that what kind of outputs does it have? If they are speaker, then I do have to run all new speaker wire. Does anyone know a way to avoid doing this, or do I NOT have to do it, and I am simply confused about the whole speaker wiring issue.

Also, like I said, I'm a bit burned out for tonight (all the reading/viewing of vids, research, etc). But I can see the total cost being driven down by ditching 1 of the 4 channel amps. That's a plus.

Also, in the video I linked to, I watched as far as him completely removing the rear seats, and panels, to remove the rear deck to get to the speakers. PLEASE tell me there is an easier way! There has to be! I don't really feature taking all of that apart, but if it is the only way, then so be it, it will be done.

Considering the guy in the video has more experience than me, I am assuming his entire process will be about a week shorter than mine. Anyone have any ideas on how to "most efficiently" do this install.

I am not going to total parts yet for main amp board fuse/splitters, etc, as I'm too tired, but I see the cost total has already dropped.

Now, supposing I do as you guys have instructed, and ditch 1 4ch amp, add the infinity amp just for the center channel, etc., I have a HUGE favor to ask of this community.

Can someone with very good wiring knowledge draw me a wiring diagram, that I can either photo and print or, depending on the format it is in, simply print?

This will be my most difficult install of a complete system to date. And, I'm 56 with health issues and not a spring chicken anymore. Banging this out in a day or two just doesn't seem possible anymore for me.

And another thing, any advice on the most important parts to sound dampen would be great. I do not have the gumption to do a complete body dynamat or similar solution. Been there, done that...simply too old now.

I will check in a couple of hours if I have any feedback from this post.

I hope, though really don't expect to, hear good news on speaker wiring, but, maybe I'm wrong.....

Thanks a lot,

Viper

 

[Pittviper]

Thanks,
I have a good question. Given your dislike for audiocontrol products because of this feature, what would YOU use instead of the lc7i?
I'm very curious. Remember, lower cost but good sq is the goal.

Also, you said to run the signal from the existing amp to the lc7i, as well as certain speaker outputs. Can you please point me to the harnesses I need to do this? I thought I was basically eliminating the existing amp from the equation.

Viper

 

[Pittviper]

For the LC7I you will need to run the signal coming from your factory amp, front left and right mid/high (midwoofer/tweeter) and subwoofer. The LC7i will take that signal and sum them together and make a full range signal for your left and right channels. There's little jumpers inside the lc71 I believe to mix the signals together. You would have to read the instruction manual. I personally don't like audiocontrol units or LOCs for that matter. But that's just me. The LC7I will then turn them signals to 6 low level outputs (RCAs) to run to your amps. But that will not include your center channel if you want to keep the navigation prompts.

 

[Pittviper]

One more thing: YOU GUYS ARE AWESOME!!!

 

[Pittviper]

And one more...I am gonna look tomorrow at previous amp racks I have laying around and see what power wiring splitters, probably all of them, that I can bastardize. I also have a whole box of fuses of different types. What type of fuses are in the fuse panel in (hopefully) the cabin. Last car had those super mini ones, so I may have to get add a fuse's and the correct types of fuses for that, an for the dashcam that is out for repair, just to wire those in. (For audio purposes, that would be the blue turn on wire in this case). I use 2 other's for the dashcam. But, I would, in a perfect world, have complete carts tomorrow for everything I'm buying, and see what the cost is. (that includes the new components, and a selection of add a fuse's and a fuse assortment). I want to purchase asap, but, I also need to do this in small stages. I simply can't, physically, do what I could do 25 years ago in the same amount of time.

Perhaps you can suggest a "best practices" method to do this in stages. Not quite sure what that will be in this case, so I defer to you guys for good answers. I haven't been out of the house since July 9th, so I don't feature tearing apart the car and still being down for 2 more weeks after I begin; I'm sure you can understand that.

Viper

 

[ItsonlyAHonda]

The wiring harness comes off of your amp the side you are disconnecting are the wires that run to your factory speakers. They are not labeled but the labeling will be included with the wiring harness. I would run new wire for the speakers but if you don't want to you could use the factory wire. But it is cheap and I dont know if it would handle the load. As far as power wire find a wiring kit for multiple amps. 4 gauge is pushing it on the smaller side. I would run 0 gauge for 3 amps. And only use OFC wire don't use that CCA crap. Honestly there is alot involved to the install on our cars I would gather everything up and have some else do it. I didn't do my own I don't have the time nor the patience. And yes to get to the rear deck speakers you need to take apart the whole back end.

KnuKonceptz Kolossus Flex 0 Gauge OFC Dual Power Amp Installation Wiring Kit Amazon.com

But you would need a 3 way fuse block like this.

KnuKonceptz Bassik High Current 3 Way 0 Gauge Fuse Distribution Block - 200 Amp Amazon.com

Or you could do 1 5 channel amp like this to minimize the amount of amps

Pioneer GM-DX975

Limited Edition 5-channel car amplifier — 75 watts RMS x 4 at 4 ohms + 600 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms

www.crutchfield.com

That way there is only 2 amps involved. Then you could probly get away with 4 gauge like this

Recoil PCK4D True 4 Gauge 99.99% Oxygen Free Copper Car Audio Dual Amplifiers Complete Installation Wiring Kits Amazon.com

But I like kne knukonceptz stuff better.

You said what I would use instead of the AudioControl stuff. A DSP with an input EQ like the Helix I first mentioned. But like you said it's out of your budget.

 

[Pittviper]

Thanks again for the reply, and good morning!

Sorry I'm late to the party, slept in a bit, was exhausted yesterday. My apologies!

OK, to the equipment. This will be a combination of observations and questions.

I agree, 0ga is the best. I like the products toy listed for amp wiring, but am gonna look around a bit, as that kit is quite expensive. What I've always done in the past is have a spool of both power and ground wire on hand. I believe I have ground wire currently. I'm gonna look for 0ga power wire. Also, now paying attention to ferrules (which didn't exist outside of true audio installer circles) when I did my last install.

Addressing the amp you posted. Yes, it's 5 channel, but only 4 are low power, and the fifth looks to be meant for a sub. Keeping in mind that I wish to keep the center channel, and also have a separate high power sub amp, would a six low power on all channels work, (the regular 4 + 1 for the center), plus a high power monoblock for the sub? That would leave me with 2 amps not 3. Am I correct on this? That would also cut down in install real estate.

Still am a bit confused on the lc7i connections. What exactly is its input (where does it, in this car) come from (and what harness do I need to do that), and also the output, same question on harness.

To be quite honest at this point, unless I get a huge burst of sustained energy, I can't see me doing this the way I woulf like these days. I have the (mostly) know how, but for this complexity, I completely understand why you had a shop do it. So, although I can afford the equipment, if you add installation costs from a good shop, that would blow my budget away.

I'm almost thinking at this point : ok, I'm getting the car today. Listen to it on the way home, then some more analytical listening at home, and see what I think. I am pretty sure that the installation costs at any good shop will more than likely exceed equipment costs, so that is a no go.

From all that I've read, I'm expecting a lackluster experience, but am keeping an open mind.

What I may end up doing as the first part of an upgrade is to tap off the front, I'm supposing left and right, but correct me if I'm wrong, and add a sub with amp and lc2i. I'm sure the highs are not gonna sparkle, so next alteration would be upgrade front components, using factory amp.

This seems the simplest of all worlds to me. This is not the solution I would prefer in my last car, but being financially challenged, and not possessing the energy to do what's needed on the rear deck, I don't see many options.

Please, all who have helped thus far, and perhaps those that haven't, please give me your opinions.

And, to it's just a Honda, how long was your car in the install bay? Very curious on this.

Well, sorry for the book, but it took that long to explain with reasoning.

Also, if anyone has done a partial upgrade, using existing amp, I'm all ears on what you think.

Just looking at this point for the most realistic option, not necessarily the best.

Thank you,

Vioer

 

[Pittviper]

Thanks again for the reply, and good morning!

Sorry I'm late to the party, slept in a bit, was exhausted yesterday. My apologies!

OK, to the equipment. This will be a combination of observations and questions.

I agree, 0ga is the best. I like the products toy listed for amp wiring, but am gonna look around a bit, as that kit is quite expensive. What I've always done in the past is have a spool of both power and ground wire on hand. I believe I have ground wire currently. I'm gonna look for 0ga power wire. Also, now paying attention to ferrules (which didn't exist outside of true audio installer circles) when I did my last install.

Addressing the amp you posted. Yes, it's 5 channel, but only 4 are low power, and the fifth looks to be meant for a sub. Keeping in mind that I wish to keep the center channel, and also have a separate high power sub amp, would a six low power on all channels work, (the regular 4 + 1 for the center), plus a high power monoblock for the sub? That would leave me with 2 amps not 3. Am I correct on this? That would also cut down in install real estate.

Still am a bit confused on the lc7i connections. What exactly is its input (where does it, in this car) come from (and what harness do I need to do that), and also the output, same question on harness.

To be quite honest at this point, unless I get a huge burst of sustained energy, I can't see me doing this the way I woulf like these days. I have the (mostly) know how, but for this complexity, I completely understand why you had a shop do it. So, although I can afford the equipment, if you add installation costs from a good shop, that would blow my budget away.

I'm almost thinking at this point : ok, I'm getting the car today. Listen to it on the way home, then some more analytical listening at home, and see what I think. I am pretty sure that the installation costs at any good shop will more than likely exceed equipment costs, so that is a no go.

From all that I've read, I'm expecting a lackluster experience, but am keeping an open mind.

What I may end up doing as the first part of an upgrade is to tap off the front, I'm supposing left and right, but correct me if I'm wrong, and add a sub with amp and lc2i. I'm sure the highs are not gonna sparkle, so next alteration would be upgrade front components, using factory amp.

This seems the simplest of all worlds to me. This is not the solution I would prefer in my last car, but being financially challenged, and not possessing the energy to do what's needed on the rear deck, I don't see many options.

Please, all who have helped thus far, and perhaps those that haven't, please give me your opinions.

And, to it's just a Honda, how long was your car in the install bay? Very curious on this.

Well, sorry for the book, but it took that long to explain with reasoning.

Also, if anyone has done a partial upgrade, using existing amp, I'm all ears on what you think.

Just looking at this point for the most realistic option, not necessarily the best.

Thank you,

Viper

Edut

 

[ItsonlyAHonda]

Addressing the amp you posted. Yes, it's 5 channel, but only 4 are low power, and the fifth looks to be meant for a sub. Keeping in mind that I wish to keep the center channel, and also have a separate high power sub amp, would a six low power on all channels work, (the regular 4 + 1 for the center), plus a high power monoblock for the sub? That would leave me with 2 amps not 3. Am I correct on this? That would also cut down in install real estate.

I was thinking 5 channel for your components and your sub. Then the small 2 channel for your centre. Remember you need a separate source signal for your centre channel for your voice prompts and navigation which only come from the factory center channel. But if you want more power for your sub maybe the jp 5 channel will better suite

JP95 - 1500w RMS 5 Channel amplifier

Buy Car Audio Online the real #1 Source, Fast Free Shipping, EZ Financing, Price Match Guarantee, freebies in every order, Shop Now!

www.down4soundshop.com

Still am a bit confused on the lc7i connections. What exactly is its input (where does it, in this car) come from (and what harness do I need to do that), and also the output, same question on harness

Lc7i takes your high level inputs (speaker wires from the factory amp) using the amp bypass harness I mentioned earlier and combines the signals that are separated by the factory amp (mid frequency=6.5 woofer, high frequency =tweeter, low frequency= subwoofer) then turns that into 6 full range low level outputs (RCAs) for your amp. 2 for front components 2 for rear components and 2 for your sub. That does not include your centre channel which like I said has your voice promps and navigation promps.

What I may end up doing as the first part of an upgrade is to tap off the front, I'm supposing left and right, but correct me if I'm wrong, and add a sub with amp and lc2i. I'm sure the highs are not gonna sparkle, so next alteration would be upgrade front components, using factory amp.

This seems the simplest of all worlds to me. This is not the solution I would prefer in my last car, but being financially challenged, and not possessing the energy to do what's needed on the rear deck, I don't see many options.

You can do this but you will have 0 high frequencies. I don't even have rear speakers. I pulled them out. I don't miss music coming from behind me. You can keep them connected to the factory amp. But taking apart the rear deck is absolutely nesseray for sound treatment (to me). The dear deck rattles soon much. Especially with an after market sub. I have so much sound treatment back there. Dynamat extream on the metal shelf, and CCF (closed cell foam) more Dynamat and ccf on the bottom of the plastic shelf, where the car seat hooks are (the amount of bass I have makes those things jump), tesa tape on any wiring or clips or just anything that can rattle, and I also used sound skin baffle rings (which are thick foam strips) to separate the back windown and rear sheft and 3rd break light. You should also consider sound treating your front doors to get the best performance out of your front components. I did practically the same thing to the front doors along with covering the door cavities with 1/2" ABS plastic. But that was extream to separate the back waves from the front sound waves of my midbasses. There's 2 big cavities and the plastic had to be cut to shape, heated to be molded, then bolted down. My car probly has like 100lbs of sound treatment

And, to it's just a Honda, how long was your car in the install bay? Very curious on this.

My cars was in the install bay for almost 2 months. Should have been less but I told them to take their time and do it right. No expense was spared. And there's only 2 guys in that shop and had other cars they were working on and other cars with appointments and walking asking to do little jobs. I didn't rush them. They did an excellent job for less than half the price other shops quoted me. I planed the whole thing and bought everything beforehand from speakers, wiring, amps, batteries, everything that went into my car i chose and planed for months. I already had a system in it. I replaced all the speakers had amps n subs but it sounded like crap to me so I took extream measures. Like I said before between the the first I stall and the current install and the stuff I bought that didn't make the cut for this install that's collecting dust in my garage I spent well over what this car is worth. Good luck bro.

 

[Pittviper]

THANKS SOOO MUCH FOR REPLYING...I WASN'T EVEN GONNA CHECK TONIGHT BECAUSE I'M EXAUSTED...AGAIN.

First off, I got the car today, and here are my first (and final) impressions of the stock system. And yes, I did turn the SP off. Now, here goes, just my own opinion, compared to how my last car sounded.

Last car had an infinity system, I presume made by Harmon, but had that sub in the middle of the deck, and lacked bass. I used a shitty amp, a good sub, at least for me in a sealed box, and a regular, non powered loc. The car, for 7 years, was great sounding to me.

Now, to this car...well, to say that the sound was lackluster sounds like an improvement to what my ears think of it. IMO, there is NO bass, mid, low, sub or otherwise. And, the highs suck as well. Very disappointed with it. The thoughts I'm gonna be coming to were in my mind before I picked up the car.

Also, the fact that they even call that a subwoofer is laughable to me. Jesus, that is a misnomer if I have ever heard one.

So, here are my thoughts as of this morning (before getting the car), and now exactly the same afterwards. I would like all of your, and everyone's advice on this.

As you know, I have 3 main things against me. 1. Health issues. 2. Financial deficiency. 3. A need to do anything I do myself, as I cannot afford to pay a shop for what is going to be described as a simple install.

All I would like to do is add an lc2i, new, good power amp, and use my same sub/box.

Now, all the questions.

1. I am stumped on exactly what inputs go into the lc2i, so without a knowledge of that, I cannot even begin. Having driven a car with bass that was enough for me, driving home from the dealership made me feel naked, literally.

2. I cannot do all of the work to completely bypass the factory amp and wire in all new speakers and amps, period. So, going with that thought, here is what I've been thinking since I got up this morning.

a) First figure out how to add the bass I want. Your pics for lci7 and bypassing the amp were great info, but I just can't do all of that, mainly for health issues.
So, I was thinking, is there a CHANCE that if I find the right front components with high sensitivity with such low factory amp power, will it make a difference. IMO, it HAS to, that is how poorly I perceived factory setup.
b) If what I said in a) would make a difference, I'd like to find the best possible components for bring out the most given the low power. Yes, I know that is a stretch, but, there has to be an improvement, a and that is something I can do. Taking out the rear seat and deck cover is just un-doable for me. So, I see so many people using Focal components. Are they sensitive enough to add any semblance o of especially treble, which I feel I had none of, and as far as the mids that come with them, will they produce better (again, HAS to) sound that what is in there now. I need to continue using the factory amp. I am in no way concerned about the changing the center at the moment. Gosh, I don't think I even heard it anyway.
c) Again, back to speaker sensitivity at low power. I already know from experience that you are not gonna get thumpy mid-bass without hefty power, unless physics and the design of the current offering o of components has really been re-engineered since "my" day.
d) Finally, presuming that a) is possible, and I hope that it is, I would like suggestions on what speakers to get. I NEED to hear the highs, which I felt were less than lacking. Also, the mids were bland as well, audible, but not nearly what I am used to.

I went from my old car, last driven on 7/9, which imo slammed pretty good, to this???? The fact that the word premium is even used to describe it baffles me.

So, what I really need are answers to 1. and a) and d) above. I know that 1. will add the needed bass. And, I can do some sound deadening on the interior of the rear deck, but disassembling the entire back end is gonna be out of the question. Also, I can add any treatment for sound that your guys advise, as long as I don't have to completely disassemble the car! And, if I am gonna have the door panels off, let me know where to put/what kind of sound deadening material to use.

There has to be a reason that people are using the focal 165 series. But, I am REALLY hesitant to pull the trigger on anything at this point until I get the much needed advice from you guys. No, it will not live up to grand expectations, but, even a minuscule improvement, throughout the entire frequency range, is much needed.

Again, instructions like you gave for the lc7i would be great for the lc2i. And, I really don't know how to find the "best" speakers to get "ok" sound out of low power. And imo, what is in there now does not even come close to "ok" in my opinion.

Actually, I was expecting disappointment to begin with with all of the reading I've done here and elsewhere. So much so, that I think that using the word disappointed sounds like better that what I actually experienced. < disappointed!

So, will you guys help me with the questions I've asked here?

If the only way to get the signal for the lc2i is to take the door panels off, and I am not sure if I need left and right, and tap into the wires for tweeter and mid there (will that be full range, or do I need some other signal as well), then I'll just replace the door speakers and tweeters at the same time.

At this point though, besides equipment for the bass, I have no clue what "better' door speakers to choose. I am not even worried about those in the back deck.

Sorry this has been long, but, I felt a full disclosure of my impressions were in order.

I will wait with baited breath for your opinions.

Thanks again, so much,

Viper

P.S. Please mention any equipment I might want to look at or need and forgot about. Thank you.

 

[Pittviper]

THANKS SOOO MUCH FOR REPLYING...I WASN'T EVEN GONNA CHECK TONIGHT BECAUSE I'M EXAUSTED...AGAIN.

First off, I got the car today, and here are my first (and final) impressions of the stock system. And yes, I did turn the SP off. Now, here goes, just my own opinion, compared to how my last car sounded.

Last car had an infinity system, I presume made by Harmon, but had that sub in the middle of the deck, and lacked bass. I used a shitty amp, a good sub, at least for me in a sealed box, and a regular, non powered loc. The car, for 7 years, was great sounding to me.

Now, to this car...well, to say that the sound was lackluster sounds like an improvement to what my ears think of it. IMO, there is NO bass, mid, low, sub or otherwise. And, the highs suck as well. Very disappointed with it. The thoughts I'm gonna be coming to were in my mind before I picked up the car.

Also, the fact that they even call that a subwoofer is laughable to me. Jesus, that is a misnomer if I have ever heard one.

So, here are my thoughts as of this morning (before getting the car), and now exactly the same afterwards. I would like all of your, and everyone's advice on this.

As you know, I have 3 main things against me. 1. Health issues. 2. Financial deficiency. 3. A need to do anything I do myself, as I cannot afford to pay a shop for what is going to be described as a simple install.

All I would like to do is add an lc2i, new, good power amp, and use my same sub/box.

Now, all the questions.

1. I am stumped on exactly what inputs go into the lc2i, so without a knowledge of that, I cannot even begin. Having driven a car with bass that was enough for me, driving home from the dealership made me feel naked, literally.

2. I cannot do all of the work to completely bypass the factory amp and wire in all new speakers and amps, period. So, going with that thought, here is what I've been thinking since I got up this morning.

a) First figure out how to add the bass I want. Your pics for lci7 and bypassing the amp were great info, but I just can't do all of that, mainly for health issues.
So, I was thinking, is there a CHANCE that if I find the right front components with high sensitivity with such low factory amp power, will it make a difference. IMO, it HAS to, that is how poorly I perceived factory setup.
b) If what I said in a) would make a difference, I'd like to find the best possible components for bring out the most given the low power. Yes, I know that is a stretch, but, there has to be an improvement, a and that is something I can do. Taking out the rear seat and deck cover is just un-doable for me. So, I see so many people using Focal components. Are they sensitive enough to add any semblance o of especially treble, which I feel I had none of, and as far as the mids that come with them, will they produce better (again, HAS to) sound that what is in there now. I need to continue using the factory amp. I am in no way concerned about the changing the center at the moment. Gosh, I don't think I even heard it anyway.
c) Again, back to speaker sensitivity at low power. I already know from experience that you are not gonna get thumpy mid-bass without hefty power, unless physics and the design of the current offering o of components has really been re-engineered since "my" day.
d) Finally, presuming that a) is possible, and I hope that it is, I would like suggestions on what speakers to get. I NEED to hear the highs, which I felt were less than lacking. Also, the mids were bland as well, audible, but not nearly what I am used to.

I went from my old car, last driven on 7/9, which imo slammed pretty good, to this???? The fact that the word premium is even used to describe it baffles me.

So, what I really need are answers to 1. and a) and d) above. I know that 1. will add the needed bass. And, I can do some sound deadening on the interior of the rear deck, but disassembling the entire back end is gonna be out of the question. Also, I can add any treatment for sound that your guys advise, as long as I don't have to completely disassemble the car! And, if I am gonna have the door panels off, let me know where to put/what kind of sound deadening material to use.

There has to be a reason that people are using the focal 165 series. But, I am REALLY hesitant to pull the trigger on anything at this point until I get the much needed advice from you guys. No, it will not live up to grand expectations, but, even a minuscule improvement, throughout the entire frequency range, is much needed.

Again, instructions like you gave for the lc7i would be great for the lc2i. And, I really don't know how to find the "best" speakers to get "ok" sound out of low power. And imo, what is in there now does not even come close to "ok" in my opinion.

Actually, I was expecting disappointment to begin with with all of the reading I've done here and elsewhere. So much so, that I think that using the word disappointed sounds like better that what I actually experienced. > thank disappointed! Disgusted would be a good term.

So, will you guys help me with the questions I've asked here?

If the only way to get the signal for the lc2i is to take the door panels off, and I am not sure if I need left and right, and tap into the wires for tweeter and mid there (will that be full range, or do I need some other signal as well), then I'll just replace the door speakers and tweeters at the same time.

At this point though, besides equipment for the bass, I have no clue what "better' door speakers to choose. I am not even worried about those in the back deck.

Sorry this has been long, but, I felt a full disclosure of my impressions were in order.

I will wait with baited breath for your opinions.

Thanks again, so much,

Viper

P.S. Please mention any equipment I might want to look at or need and forgot about. Thank you.

 

[ItsonlyAHonda]

THANKS SOOO MUCH FOR REPLYING...I WASN'T EVEN GONNA CHECK TONIGHT BECAUSE I'M EXAUSTED...AGAIN.

First off, I got the car today, and here are my first (and final) impressions of the stock system. And yes, I did turn the SP off. Now, here goes, just my own opinion, compared to how my last car sounded.

Last car had an infinity system, I presume made by Harmon, but had that sub in the middle of the deck, and lacked bass. I used a shitty amp, a good sub, at least for me in a sealed box, and a regular, non powered loc. The car, for 7 years, was great sounding to me.

Now, to this car...well, to say that the sound was lackluster sounds like an improvement to what my ears think of it. IMO, there is NO bass, mid, low, sub or otherwise. And, the highs suck as well. Very disappointed with it. The thoughts I'm gonna be coming to were in my mind before I picked up the car.

Also, the fact that they even call that a subwoofer is laughable to me. Jesus, that is a misnomer if I have ever heard one.

So, here are my thoughts as of this morning (before getting the car), and now exactly the same afterwards. I would like all of your, and everyone's advice on this.

As you know, I have 3 main things against me. 1. Health issues. 2. Financial deficiency. 3. A need to do anything I do myself, as I cannot afford to pay a shop for what is going to be described as a simple install.

All I would like to do is add an lc2i, new, good power amp, and use my same sub/box.

Now, all the questions.

1. I am stumped on exactly what inputs go into the lc2i, so without a knowledge of that, I cannot even begin. Having driven a car with bass that was enough for me, driving home from the dealership made me feel naked, literally.

2. I cannot do all of the work to completely bypass the factory amp and wire in all new speakers and amps, period. So, going with that thought, here is what I've been thinking since I got up this morning.

a) First figure out how to add the bass I want. Your pics for lci7 and bypassing the amp were great info, but I just can't do all of that, mainly for health issues.
So, I was thinking, is there a CHANCE that if I find the right front components with high sensitivity with such low factory amp power, will it make a difference. IMO, it HAS to, that is how poorly I perceived factory setup.
b) If what I said in a) would make a difference, I'd like to find the best possible components for bring out the most given the low power. Yes, I know that is a stretch, but, there has to be an improvement, a and that is something I can do. Taking out the rear seat and deck cover is just un-doable for me. So, I see so many people using Focal components. Are they sensitive enough to add any semblance o of especially treble, which I feel I had none of, and as far as the mids that come with them, will they produce better (again, HAS to) sound that what is in there now. I need to continue using the factory amp. I am in no way concerned about the changing the center at the moment. Gosh, I don't think I even heard it anyway.
c) Again, back to speaker sensitivity at low power. I already know from experience that you are not gonna get thumpy mid-bass without hefty power, unless physics and the design of the current offering o of components has really been re-engineered since "my" day.
d) Finally, presuming that a) is possible, and I hope that it is, I would like suggestions on what speakers to get. I NEED to hear the highs, which I felt were less than lacking. Also, the mids were bland as well, audible, but not nearly what I am used to.

I went from my old car, last driven on 7/9, which imo slammed pretty good, to this???? The fact that the word premium is even used to describe it baffles me.

So, what I really need are answers to 1. and a) and d) above. I know that 1. will add the needed bass. And, I can do some sound deadening on the interior of the rear deck, but disassembling the entire back end is gonna be out of the question. Also, I can add any treatment for sound that your guys advise, as long as I don't have to completely disassemble the car! And, if I am gonna have the door panels off, let me know where to put/what kind of sound deadening material to use.

There has to be a reason that people are using the focal 165 series. But, I am REALLY hesitant to pull the trigger on anything at this point until I get the much needed advice from you guys. No, it will not live up to grand expectations, but, even a minuscule improvement, throughout the entire frequency range, is much needed.

Again, instructions like you gave for the lc7i would be great for the lc2i. And, I really don't know how to find the "best" speakers to get "ok" sound out of low power. And imo, what is in there now does not even come close to "ok" in my opinion.

Actually, I was expecting disappointment to begin with with all of the reading I've done here and elsewhere. So much so, that I think that using the word disappointed sounds like better that what I actually experienced. < disappointed!

So, will you guys help me with the questions I've asked here?

If the only way to get the signal for the lc2i is to take the door panels off, and I am not sure if I need left and right, and tap into the wires for tweeter and mid there (will that be full range, or do I need some other signal as well), then I'll just replace the door speakers and tweeters at the same time.

At this point though, besides equipment for the bass, I have no clue what "better' door speakers to choose. I am not even worried about those in the back deck.

Sorry this has been long, but, I felt a full disclosure of my impressions were in order.

I will wait with baited breath for your opinions.

Thanks again, so much,

Viper

P.S. Please mention any equipment I might want to look at or need and forgot about. Thank you.

If you want to keep it simple and cost efficient lc2i for just bass you can grab signal from the factory sub. I've heard ppl say they got signal from the left and right mid in the back. But I'd rather get it from the sub. But that's just to feed a subwoofer. You can replace the door speakers with pretty much any component 6.5, with a 3/4 tweeter. Going with a higher end brand is gonna do absolutely nothing if your not using an aftermarket amplifier. I used some cheap kicker KS something or another. Don't waste big money on good components if your going to use the factory amp. Improvement in sound was minimal doing that but you could turn it up a little more withough a bunch of distortion. If you replace the centre channel with a 3.5 coaxial speaker actually makes the most difference but you gotta take apart the whole front end to get to it. I wouldn't bother with the rear speakers it won't make much of a difference if your not going to amplify. So recap, front components, centre 3.5 coaxial, lc2i pro will help with the bass rolloff get the signal from the sub, forget about upgrading the rear. Sound treatment is to minimize rattle pretty much. So anywhere 2 hard surfaces meet. In the doors where ever the plastic from the door card meets the metal from the door. But since your not amplifying your doors I don't think your going to have to worry. That will get your cost and work load down significantly.

 

[neodescorpio]

Hi @ItsonlyAHond, Some awesome setup you got there bro. I also thought like viper that 10 channel factory premium sound system will be good but its well established how crappy it is. I had no idea about LOCs and DSPs and I went with my previous knowledge and bought an amp and sub off of Facebook marketplace and ordered JBL and Focal component speakers to replace the factory speakers. I am no DIY person when it comes to cars so went to a shop and to install the speakers to replace the factory speakers and put the amp. They told me it will not gonna sound good as factory amp can't drive these speakers specially the JBL but I still insisted on the installation and they did. Boy they were right and I was so wrong.

Now I started researching car audio and specially for this Accord 2018 and it's confused me even more. I want to install the LC7i now to get a good sound. I want to run the focals on front and JBL on rear with the pioneer sub. Now please confirm if I am going in right direction or not. This sub and amp is temporary and will be replaced with something good sooner. (I know I got 4ohm @60Watts RMS focal components and 3Ohms 75 watts RMS JBL components and this amp was supposed to use only with the speakers 60 W x 4 (4Ω) NOT with the speakers and a subwoofer)

Front center channel as it as
Focal on front on factory amp (Just replace the stock speaker and tweeters)
put LC7i in back. Rear left and right tweeter and mids and sub as input and use the Summed output and Sub output(Main output and Sub output from LC7i) into the 4 channel amplifier and use 2 channels for rear speakers and remaining 2 channels for the Sub

Ideally I would like to run the speakers on this amp and add another mono amp for the sub but I dont know how to configure all these in these 10th gen Accord Premium systems and currently Ihave spent all my budget on these without much research so can't spend more.

I intend to do a DIY with my friend who knows this stuff as can't afford the shops for this kind of installation.

Please advice

Pioneer 4 channel Amp GM-A6704
Focal Auditor RSE 6.5 Components
JBL GTO 609c
Pioneer sub in a tube encosure

 

[ItsonlyAHonda]

You need to get the signal from the front speaker channels. Or else you will loose your phone call audio. If you keep the centre channel connected to stock you will keep phone calls there only. The rear signal is extreamly processed and will sound terrible amplified. You need to sum front, mids and tweeter along with the sub to get a full spectrum signal. For the left and the right.