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2020 Accord 2.0T 10AT
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all,

I am currently running Ktuner V2 stage 2 map, and have the PRL stage 1 intake installed on my Accord. Prior to removing the stock intake, I didn’t pay close attention to the IAT. Upon research, I found that these K series turbo charged engines, are very prone to heat soak. My IAT is usually around 20+ degrees over ambient air temps, sometimes higher. It does go down as I drive, then spikes high idled. I’m curious to know if anyone has been monitoring this with the stock intake with Ktuner? With spirited driving on a 90 degree Cali day, I can see my IAT jump to north of 160+ at idle. Is this normal? My ECT is around 180ish to 210+. I’m considering the PRL IC, to reduce these temps some. Lastly, my K.Control sits at .70 up to .80 +, but my K.Count rarely gets to over 4. Not sure if there is any concern for that. Was hoping some of you guys with more understanding of these systems and figures than me, can provide me some guidance here.

Thank you!
 

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2018 Accord Sport 2.0T 6MT
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I may as well throw my .02 cents in on this post too haha an upgraded IC will do a lot on these cars to keep intake temps down. Heat soak is a major issue on the turbo k20 in this car and the turbo L15 in the Accord and Civic. Plenty of guys running aftermarket IC's to keep temps down. As far as your KCon I mentioned fuel on your other post, but have you filled up the tank since tuning with different fuel? And you just replaced the intake, going back in there and hitting the MAF with some cleaner could help. Pull the sensor all the way out and make sure its good and dry before putting it back in. The MAF cleaner doesnt take long to dry. make sure you let it hang out somewhere safe and don't touch the filament element on the sensor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I may as well throw my .02 cents in on this post too haha an upgraded IC will do a lot on these cars to keep intake temps down. Heat soak is a major issue on the turbo k20 in this car and the turbo L15 in the Accord and Civic. Plenty of guys running aftermarket IC's to keep temps down. As far as your KCon I mentioned fuel on your other post, but have you filled up the tank since tuning with different fuel? And you just replaced the intake, going back in there and hitting the MAF with some cleaner could help. Pull the sensor all the way out and make sure its good and dry before putting it back in. The MAF cleaner doesnt take long to dry. make sure you let it hang out somewhere safe and don't touch the filament element on the sensor.
I was hoping you would chime in here lol Yeah I think in the near future I’ll install the PRL IC. Any recommendations on others? I have filled up since tuning, but not since the intake install. I use Cali Chevron 91. Now, I do have access to E85. Could I add a gallon or so on my next fill up to boost the octane levels, or is that not a good idea without having the stage 3/4 phareable tune? I will def clean the MAF sensor, never have done that but seems fairly easy to learn??
 

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MAF is right there on the intake tube, easy to take out and clean. Just buy some MAF cleaner and spray it down. Let it sit and dry for 10 minutes or so just to be safe, should say how long on the can. PRL has been one of the highest quality parts manufacturers for this platform, I'd stick with them. Most companies have focused more on the civic over the accord. Ktuner recommends at least 91 but I'd be willing to bet adding some E85 to it would help. You can run it on the stage 2, just add a 1-1.5 on a fill up. I get pretty good 93 here and have never had a Kcon problem on my civic or accord. Also, try different stations. Some just get bad gas, you never know.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
MAF is right there on the intake tube, easy to take out and clean. Just buy some MAF cleaner and spray it down. Let it sit and dry for 10 minutes or so just to be safe, should say how long on the can. PRL has been one of the highest quality parts manufacturers for this platform, I'd stick with them. Most companies have focused more on the civic over the accord. Ktuner recommends at least 91 but I'd be willing to bet adding some E85 to it would help. You can run it on the stage 2, just add a 1-1.5 on a fill up. I get pretty good 93 here and have never had a Kcon problem on my civic or accord. Also, try different stations. Some just get bad gas, you never know.
Nice, that sounds really easy to clean. I’ll definitely stick to PRL products, as I’ve heard nothing but the same for 10th gen Accords. I’ll try different fuel stations, but I think that CA 91 is just 2nd par in comparison to other states. Maybe Ktune stage 2 map is too aggressive of a tune for CA 91, and a gallon or so of E85 would reduce knock? Would a professional tune be a better option, to adjust/remove ignition timing etc? Would the phareable tunes be worth it, if I installed a PRL flex fuel kit to get the right balance, E30-E40?
 

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Phearable has a big dislaimer that it has to be 93 or you can do 91 with a gallon and a half of E85. I'm not super familiar with flex fuel stuff so I don't want to give you any incorrect info there. A professional custom tune would probably be your best bet as they can tune the car to work with the fuel you've got available. adding 1-1.5 gallons of e8th would help with knock as it effectively raises the octane level of the fuel. I would try that until you decide if going with a custom tune is what you want.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Phearable has a big dislaimer that it has to be 93 or you can do 91 with a gallon and a half of E85. I'm not super familiar with flex fuel stuff so I don't want to give you any incorrect info there. A professional custom tune would probably be your best bet as they can tune the car to work with the fuel you've got available. adding 1-1.5 gallons of e8th would help with knock as it effectively raises the octane level of the fuel. I would try that until you decide if going with a custom tune is what you want.
Awesome, great advice. I think I’ll provide a data log, and see how that looks from your guys prospective here, and on Ktuner’s forum. Any particular type of driving/driving time needed for a good log? Thanks bro!
 

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No problem man, happy to help where I can. You need a good amount of data from a log so usually a good 20 minutes or so once its warm. do some normal around town driving and then give it a good pull or two to compare how things look during day to day driving to your pulls.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
No problem man, happy to help where I can. You need a good amount of data from a log so usually a good 20 minutes or so once its warm. do some normal around town driving and then give it a good pull or two to compare how things look during day to day driving to your pulls.
Okay cool, sounds good. So I’m still not 100% on how to data log just yet with the V2. I’m assuming my computer will need to be connected to the V2 in my car while I’m driving? Couldn’t find to much help online or you tube regarding this. Any input would be really helpful!
 

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I’m in Cali too ran the stage 2 for awhile on 91 for 20k miles with no problems then got reffed and switched back to stock tune. I won’t be running any tune until the turbo upgrade comes. I used to have a Boostane can to bump up the octane to reduce knock it actually worked good.
 

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I’m in Cali too ran the stage 2 for awhile on 91 for 20k miles with no problems then got reffed and switched back to stock tune. I won’t be running any tune until the turbo upgrade comes. I used to have a Boostane can to bump up the octane to reduce knock it actually worked good.
How would anyone even know your tuned? You can't tell just by looking at or hearing the car.
 

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I made a thread about it awhile back but got pulled over for loud exhaust and that’s probable cause to pop my hood which he did and saw my intake with no CARB/EO # and gave me a modified emission(state referee), loud exhaust and tint ticket. I went completely back to stock passed referee a month or so later. The state ref checks the ecu to make sure there’s no tunes and makes sure they are within factory spec with what they have in the data base
 

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I made a thread about it awhile back but got pulled over for loud exhaust and that’s probable cause to pop my hood which he did and saw my intake with no CARB/EO # and gave me a modified emission(state referee), loud exhaust and tint ticket. I went completely back to stock passed referee a month or so later. The state ref checks the ecu to make sure there’s no tunes and makes sure they are within factory spec with what they have in the data base
That's crazy. Every car here in Delaware I sware is modded to be as loud as possible. There are so many loud cars, mostly mustangs, Comoros and challengers, but i also see a ton of straight piped vws and honds. I work at a specialty pharmacy which is on a fourth floor of a court house for driving offensives. 5 of my coworkers have cars so loud I can hear them an 1/8 mile down the road before they get to the parking lot. There are tons of cops in the parking lot all the time. None of them bat an eye at obnoxiously loud cars or tint. My coworker with a straight piped gti has 5%. No one cares. That's why I'm surprised the cop even bothered you. Guess it depends on where.
 

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Some cities and counties are stricter than others. In my city cops don’t care either but the city I got my ticket had a new unit for breaking down on racers (found out on Facebook later). I was just cruising really late at night and was targeted and stereotyped for being a racer with the exhaust, low, wide tires, aftermarket rims etc…
 

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I mean, they've gotta let you have some kind of fun out there lol jk but like @RnS 2.0T said every state/city/county is different on how they police all that. I got harassed left and right by cops in NY for all my cars. Moved to Texas and I haven't had a single run in regardless of tint, exhaust, ride height, anything.
 

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Lunar Silver 2019 Honda Accord Sport 2.0T 10AT
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Check your fuel quality when running any tunes other than stock. Crappy fuel will cause Knock count to rise.

As for heat soak, all turbo motors (any motor) are prone to it especially the new Honda motors. Our air intake is right above the turbo so heat soaks right into the intake. I noticed with the PRL DP, PRL HVI and PRL IC that all my temps dropped. My IAT's are always close to the ambient temp, between 5 to 10 degrees higher. ECT's and idling temps dropped also pretty significantly. The car can do pulls repeatedly with no change in performance now.
 

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Okay cool, sounds good. So I’m still not 100% on how to data log just yet with the V2. I’m assuming my computer will need to be connected to the V2 in my car while I’m driving? Couldn’t find to much help online or you tube regarding this. Any input would be really helpful!
Yes, you need to connect your laptop or even an Android tablet with Tunerview. Not sure if the V2 can datalog due to lack of memory storage. I run the V1.2 and Tunerview on a Android tablet and can datalog.
 

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Phearable has a big dislaimer that it has to be 93 or you can do 91 with a gallon and a half of E85. I'm not super familiar with flex fuel stuff so I don't want to give you any incorrect info there. A professional custom tune would probably be your best bet as they can tune the car to work with the fuel you've got available. adding 1-1.5 gallons of e8th would help with knock as it effectively raises the octane level of the fuel. I would try that until you decide if going with a custom tune is what you want.
The gallon or so of e85 should bring you up to the 93 octane you need. A Flex fuel/e85 kit on the other hand would do wonder for your power. E85 I believe is 104 octane ( been awhile since using it) The extra power from an e85 kit and a custom tune would be awesome. You would loose some mpg because flex fuel has less energy. It would mean less knock, cooler temps ect. It's cheaper than running race fuel constantly. The only thing better is water meth. But as Mr G stated an intercooler should be the next move before a custom tune.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I made a thread about it awhile back but got pulled over for loud exhaust and that’s probable cause to pop my hood which he did and saw my intake with no CARB/EO # and gave me a modified emission(state referee), loud exhaust and tint ticket. I went completely back to stock passed referee a month or so later. The state ref checks the ecu to make sure there’s no tunes and makes sure they are within factory spec with what they have in the data base
I read that thread as well. That’s crazy bro, hope everything works out for you!
 
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