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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello!

I'm a proud owner of a new '21 Accord Sport SE and I am loving just about everything so far... aside from the elephant in the room: the lack of bass.

I have my equipment from my previous car which includes:
  • LC2i Line in converter
  • LC2i bass knob
  • A KICKER 46CXA3604T amp
  • 2 x 10" Kicker CompC subs
  • And a box to house them
I plan on buying a new amp kit (recommendations welcomed) to do the install.

But I'm finding very little info on how to do this. I can't seem to find a factory amp in the car (based off 2018 and 2020 models). Which is fine. But then I can't seem to find a wiring diagram for the head unit either for me to tap into the front speakers.

I want to make sure I'm on the right track or see of anyone has experience with this set up before. I appreciate your time!
 

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Why don't you mount the lc2 in the trunk and get your input signal from the rear speakers? There isn't any real reason to get your signal from the front and it is way easier to access. There is a large grommet above your brake pedal that you can easily run 4 gauge power wire through. Between your seats and the trunk There is a 10mm bolt to secure your rear seat bottom cushion. Remove bolt and sand paint from body. Use this location for your ground. Hope this is helpful.
 

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Also when tapping into the speaker wires in the rear. There is a small cover that flips open. Rule of thumb is the terminal on the left is positive. If you screw up you can always change the phase at the lc2.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Also when tapping into the speaker wires in the rear. There is a small cover that flips open. Rule of thumb is the terminal on the left is positive. If you screw up you can always change the phase at the lc2.
Honestly this is the best advice I've had all week. And it makes sense for once haha! When using the lc2i- where would you recommend tapping in for a 12v/continuous power?

And is it safe to assume I can use the same ground for the lc2i as I would the amp? That bolt between trunk and seats?

I so very much appreciate your help!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Tap into the front speaker. It's full range up front. Rear speakers are crossed over so you wont get the sound you want.

View attachment 7139
Okay- good to know! Front speakers meaning like the fronr door speakers right?

And going off the question I asked the other person. Where would you recommend connecting the 12v for the lc2i? I'm having a problem finding where the factory amp is or how to go about where to tap in the wires properly.

I'm sorry if these are silly questions- I just wanna get it done right the first time ya know?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Tap into the front speaker. It's full range up front. Rear speakers are crossed over so you wont get the sound you want.

View attachment 7139
I had actually seen your comment from the previous post and was gonna message you haha. But unfortunately I didn't have enough history on the forums yet to direct message. So I appreciate you reaching out first!
 

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Why don't you mount the lc2 in the trunk and get your input signal from the rear speakers? There isn't any real reason to get your signal from the front and it is way easier to access. There is a large grommet above your brake pedal that you can easily run 4 gauge power wire through. Between your seats and the trunk There is a 10mm bolt to secure your rear seat bottom cushion. Remove bolt and sand paint from body. Use this location for your ground. Hope this is helpful.
Absolutely there is a reason to tap the front as cv2 stated. Never run anything through that factory grommet as there are many tiny wires in there that can get cut. Drill your own hole next to it most amp install kits comes with an oring to seal it. There is no need to sand the body there is a negative connection under the center console. There are tons of install threads about this already in this forum just need to read some of the previous posts and use the search function. These are just the ones from the first page of the electronic section:






 

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I had actually seen your comment from the previous post and was gonna message you haha. But unfortunately I didn't have enough history on the forums yet to direct message. So I appreciate you reaching out first!
You're welcome! I had the system installed and just instructed them on where to tap and to place the lc2i. Vegashybrid provided lots of helpful links. Have a look at them and I'm sure you'll find your answer there! Post the finished product when you're done!
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Absolutely there is a reason to tap the front as cv2 stated. Never run anything through that factory grommet as there are many tiny wires in there that can get cut. Drill your own hole next to it most amp install kits comes with an oring to seal it. There is no need to sand the body there is a negative connection under the center console. There are tons of install threads about this already in this forum just need to read some of the previous posts and use the search function. These are just the ones from the first page of the electronic section:






Hey Vegas!

First off- I want to say thank you for giving me a lot of insight from previous threads and giving me a chance to look at all the posts and even getting your insight, as well as experience.

I wanted to read through all of it before I came back to reply. First off, thank you @cv2 6sp for the recommendations on going through the front speakers for the sub connection. I think that's some solid advice I didn't think of. Secondly @Vegashybrid Like I said- thank you for all of the info you gave me in these threads. As well as the tip about kit that could help with a personal grommet for the power wire to the amp. I was currently looking at one that didn't have an o-ring so you saved me there well lol. I guess through it all- I'm still kind of stuck with just two questions:
  • What wires would I use to connect the LC2i into?
    • Cause I know if anything I would use the rear speakers using these nifty things Crutchfield Wire Taps. But I'm lost on where to tap in to 12v and ground location wise, unless I get it from the head unit or factory amp which I'd need a wiring diagram. And I could also tap in to the front speakers that way too.
  • And my original question would be just confirming if there is, or where it is, the factory amp in my car?
    • The fuse box in the cabin says there's one and has a fuse assigned to it. And it's an 8 speaker car as well but I can't seem to find it based off previous years of this generation of Accord. I guess I'm more familiar with tapping into the stock amp from my previous car, a '16 Civic, so I was trying to stay kind of in my comfort zone since this is still a new car to me haha.
Again- all this help has really brought some good things to my attention in how I want this to be wired up. And I loved some of the ideas I got after reading through those posts.
As always- anything helps with this. So thank you again!
 

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I would love to further help you, but I got my stuff installed by a shop. Only thing I did was unplug the ANC module and It wasn't hard at all.

As far as stock amps go, I'm not sure the sport model has one. I could be wrong tho.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I would love to further help you, but I got my stuff installed by a shop. Only thing I did was unplug the ANC module and It wasn't hard at all.

As far as stock amps go, I'm not sure the sport model has one. I could be wrong tho.
Honestly I might take your route and having an installer do it and I can help guide the route that I'm hoping for. Maybe even call to a local shop to see if they know about the factory amp.

Like I said- I can't find any info on my car haha. So I just want to do as much research as I can before I start yanking off panels. I'm not that confident in my skills yet lol.
 

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Hey Vegas!

First off- I want to say thank you for giving me a lot of insight from previous threads and giving me a chance to look at all the posts and even getting your insight, as well as experience.

I wanted to read through all of it before I came back to reply. First off, thank you @cv2 6sp for the recommendations on going through the front speakers for the sub connection. I think that's some solid advice I didn't think of. Secondly @Vegashybrid Like I said- thank you for all of the info you gave me in these threads. As well as the tip about kit that could help with a personal grommet for the power wire to the amp. I was currently looking at one that didn't have an o-ring so you saved me there well lol. I guess through it all- I'm still kind of stuck with just two questions:
  • What wires would I use to connect the LC2i into?
    • Cause I know if anything I would use the rear speakers using these nifty things Crutchfield Wire Taps. But I'm lost on where to tap in to 12v and ground location wise, unless I get it from the head unit or factory amp which I'd need a wiring diagram. And I could also tap in to the front speakers that way too.
  • And my original question would be just confirming if there is, or where it is, the factory amp in my car?
    • The fuse box in the cabin says there's one and has a fuse assigned to it. And it's an 8 speaker car as well but I can't seem to find it based off previous years of this generation of Accord. I guess I'm more familiar with tapping into the stock amp from my previous car, a '16 Civic, so I was trying to stay kind of in my comfort zone since this is still a new car to me haha.
Again- all this help has really brought some good things to my attention in how I want this to be wired up. And I loved some of the ideas I got after reading through those posts.
As always- anything helps with this. So thank you again!
Don't don't need a wiring diagram it all depends on where you place the DSP. Don't worry about the fuse for the radio just using add a fuse and tap into number 45 or any other fuse that is a key on fuse. So really you need to tell us where you want to put the LCI, then I can tell you if your best ground location. I would use these lever nuts, same as I used, to split one of the door signals and bring it through the door into the cabin. Personally I went from the driver side because I was already under their wiring stuff and doing the front speakers. I simply splice this into the center of the crutchfield harness and ran two of the wires into the cabin area, and straight into my DSP. If you look at the post about adding a stereo system to a hybrid on the last page gives a detailed video of where the amp is on these vehicles. But again if you're adding a DSP and aftermarket amp it doesn't matter where the factory amp is. Factory amp is really only relevant if you're completely replacing all the speakers and running new lines to each one with the DSP.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Don't don't need a wiring diagram it all depends on where you place the DSP. Don't worry about the fuse for the radio just using add a fuse and tap into number 45 or any other fuse that is a key on fuse. So really you need to tell us where you want to put the LCI, then I can tell you if your best ground location. I would use these lever nuts, same as I used, to split one of the door signals and bring it through the door into the cabin. Personally I went from the driver side because I was already under their wiring stuff and doing the front speakers. I simply splice this into the center of the crutchfield harness and ran two of the wires into the cabin area, and straight into my DSP. If you look at the post about adding a stereo system to a hybrid on the last page gives a detailed video of where the amp is on these vehicles. But again if you're adding a DSP and aftermarket amp it doesn't matter where the factory amp is. Factory amp is really only relevant if you're completely replacing all the speakers and running new lines to each one with the DSP.
I think this answer really helps steer my idea of the install then. Having you tell me/reassure me that the factory amp is basically moot connects a few things for me haha.

So my ideally I think I'm going to move the LC2/DSP to the trunk with my amp. And to tell you my current train of thought, it's going to be to use the front driver side door speaker. Run those two cables into the DSP for the sound. Fiddle around to just filter out everything but the bass (still need power and ground for the DSP). Amp is gonna be a normal amp install. I might use that spot between the trunk and back seats for ground for the amp but it sounds like you might have a better idea for me.

I'm just wanting to make sure I am understanding it all now. Let me know if I'm missing something!
 

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I think this answer really helps steer my idea of the install then. Having you tell me/reassure me that the factory amp is basically moot connects a few things for me haha.

So my ideally I think I'm going to move the LC2/DSP to the trunk with my amp. And to tell you my current train of thought, it's going to be to use the front driver side door speaker. Run those two cables into the DSP for the sound. Fiddle around to just filter out everything but the bass (still need power and ground for the DSP). Amp is gonna be a normal amp install. I might use that spot between the trunk and back seats for ground for the amp but it sounds like you might have a better idea for me.

I'm just wanting to make sure I am understanding it all now. Let me know if I'm missing something!
Sounds like a good idea. I was thinking about putting my amp in the trunk as well and mounted it on the rear deck underside but it wouldn't fit. I'm almost certain there is a negative ground by the driver side rear tail light already. You need to remove the liner, which is something you should be doing anyways if you're installing the sub and amp, and just access it from there. I wouldn't use the ground you're talking about because it's in a high wear area, between packages and if you move your seat up and down a lot, it could cause that wire to wear in that location. It's also easier to hide by the rear tail light and look cleaner.
 

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I recommend returning the LC2i and getting the kicker keyloc, it analyzes and fixes the signal from the head unit. I have been trying to get my lc2i to sound good for a month and finally just installed the keyloc yesterday and couldn't be more impressed (going to sell the lc2i). Also, you can tap into the front speakers under the kick panels, they are removed by two simple clips and theres a wiring harness that you can unplug right before the grommet into the door, I used the same posi taps which worked good but i recommend the ones for the higher gage wire, the factory wiring is small. Posi-Products™ Wire Connectors
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I recommend returning the LC2i and getting the kicker keyloc, it analyzes and fixes the signal from the head unit. I have been trying to get my lc2i to sound good for a month and finally just installed the keyloc yesterday and couldn't be more impressed (going to sell the lc2i). Also, you can tap into the front speakers under the kick panels, they are removed by two simple clips and theres a wiring harness that you can unplug right before the grommet into the door, I used the same posi taps which worked good but i recommend the ones for the higher gage wire, the factory wiring is small. Posi-Products™ Wire Connectors
Vegas is right- unfortunately I'm still going to end up using the LC2 for the sake of me already having it. But if I run into a little money I'll consider in going for the swap. And thank you for the recommendation!

And Vegas- that's a solid tip about the rear taillight. Is there a wire to tap in for power too or could that be upfront where Werz said the wiring harness would be?
 
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