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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The accord 8 speaker audio is garbage, as we all know, so I am wondering which one most people go with
Straight up speaker swap with all 8 being changed out.
Completely new setup with amp and more speakers and sub box, etc.

I don't feel like taking up space with a sub, so im more interested in just swapping out the factory speakers with something else, like the Polk 8 piece system, but was wondering about the amp, which amp to use, and how to install it.

I will probably simply ask a local shop to do the work too as I am not super interested in taking apart the doors, etc.
 

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Hi! Absolutely the 8 speaker system sucks. I have a 2019 Honda accord EX with the same system. What I did was added 4 JBL 6 -1/2 inch speakers in the doors/trunk, and replaced the front 2 tweeters with Rockford folgate speakers. Let me tell you it makes a world of difference. Taking off the doors and installing the speakers maybe took 20 minutes for the front and about an hour for the back. I will say if you don't really care about your back seat passengers, the front door speakers are so easy, and they cover the sound for the back. I also have BOB subwoofers that i got from amazon which are fantastic but they door take up a lot of room in my trunk. There are also under the seat subs which should be easier to install!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hi! Absolutely the 8 speaker system sucks. I have a 2019 Honda accord EX with the same system. What I did was added 4 JBL 6 -1/2 inch speakers in the doors/trunk, and replaced the front 2 tweeters with Rockford folgate speakers. Let me tell you it makes a world of difference. Taking off the doors and installing the speakers maybe took 20 minutes for the front and about an hour for the back. I will say if you don't really care about your back seat passengers, the front door speakers are so easy, and they cover the sound for the back. I also have BOB subwoofers that i got from amazon which are fantastic but they door take up a lot of room in my trunk. There are also under the seat subs which should be easier to install!
Awesome thanks for that advice, in definitely going to look into this
 
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2018 Honda Accord Sport 1.5T w/ magnaflow exhaust
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Hello Singular,

I own a 2018 1.5T Accord Sport and that stereo stock was even worse than what you got, I went with an under seat Alpine subwoofer and amp combo, When I was younger I had the 2 12 inch subwoofers in my Jetta back in the day, But now Im older I need my trunk space. And that little Alpine Is amazingly strong and outperforms itself daily. I also changed the door and rear speakers because the stock ones were complete trash, and I replaced those with the Focal Brand as well as the tweeters. I Hope my post finds you well. If you have any questions feel free to message me :]
 

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2022 Sport 2.0
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For those that just replaced their door/rear speakers: does it sound fine to you? or do you think that adding an amp would make a difference. Headed down the same path and would like to avoid having to take apart the dash and wire up an amp with all that it entails. Putting in a powered sub so not to worried about low end.
 

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I did the whole replace the speakers and run off of the factory amp thing. I absolutely hated it. Sounded the same, I may have got a lil more volume out of it before distortion started to take over. The source never changes that way, so it's essentially the same thing. Ppl that say it sounds leaps and bounds better are having a plasibo effect. The Honda source unit absolutely sucks.

Then adding an amp only amplifies the source, wich I already expressed my feeling on . You need a DSP to correct the factory DSP'ing then that still doesn't remove the factory HPF that's in the 30hz area. Axxess has a piece that fixes this but it's a terrible DSP. Its a glorified LOC, but it works.

Sorry for the rant 😃
 

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2022 Sport 2.0
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I did the whole replace the speakers and run off of the factory amp thing. I absolutely hated it. Sounded the same, I may have got a lil more volume out of it before distortion started to take over. The source never changes that way, so it's essentially the same thing. Ppl that say it sounds leaps and bounds better are having a plasibo effect. The Honda source unit absolutely sucks.

Then adding an amp only amplifies the source, wich I already expressed my feeling on . You need a DSP to correct the factory DSP'ing then that still doesn't remove the factory HPF that's in the 30hz area. Axxess has a piece that fixes this but it's a terrible DSP. Its a glorified LOC, but it works.

Sorry for the rant 😃
I appreciate a good rant, only means your passionate about it. That's kind of what I gathered from scouring these forums.

For budgetary/minimalistic purposes, would you think an amp with a DSP built in would do the job? there's been a lot of hype around the Kicker 47KEY200.4. Just curious about the just curious to hear your thoughts on having that all in one package.
 

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That's what I used (not the kicker) a DSP/Amp combo. I used a Helix M four DSP it has 6 high level inputs and an input EQ to correct the factory EQ'ing signal. It also has 4 amplified channels and an additional 6 preamp outputs for other amps. So thats 10 channels of DSP with 32 bands of EQ per channel and time alightment. It has way more features than that but you get the jest. I will eventually get the Axxess piece cuz it better for grabbing signal.

The Kicker key is supposed to be a good option cuz it does some type of EQing but it's very limited in adjustments and power. But for a simple 2way set up it should work fine. I just dont like that you can't adjust the crossovers so your stuck at a crossover at around 3.5k. You really don't want your midbases crossed so high cuz beaming accrues around 2khz.

Sorry I started ranting again. But the key should work fine as a budget solution. Most component sets don't ever take beaming into account anyways and the passive crossovers are usually in the kicker key crossover area cuz the tweeters can't play any lower so it works fine.
 

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2022 Sport 2.0
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Now you've got me thinking I should have separate channels for the tweeters 🤔, looks like JBL has an 8 channel (JBL DSP4086) that should be able to do the job. It's either an 8 channel amp, or proper crossovers for the tweeters, the components I have just have some small bass blockers on them.

My question for you is, how did you tap the signal from the stock head unit? I've seen this cable be referenced and one from Metra, but it appeared the Metra one was out of stock everywhere.
 

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That's for the Accord with the 8ch system with no amp I believe. Mine is the 10ch with the amp. I had to cut the factory wire and get the high level signal from there. The 8ch system is much easier. It's actually a 4ch with passive crossovers. The head unit has 4 high level signals front and rear left/right.

This is the one you need.


But I can't seem to find it anywhere
 
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