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I just tore my stereo out of my 2017 Accord Touring before trading it in for a 19' Accord Sport 2.0 6spd.

1. Hertz Mille Legends up front
2. JL C3's in the rear
3. Amp Bypass from Ebay
4. Jl Audio 900/5 powering it all
5. Jl Audio 12w6v3

I have 30 miles on my new car and just can't get the willpower to tear everything apart. It took me 12 hours to remove this system from the 17' Touring. I ran everything through factory harnesses. Spared no time installing that bad boy.

I would love to have it in my sport. Its a **** of a job. I sound deaden the doors and rear deck and trunk space makes for a much tighter sound.

So from what I hear the OP spliced into the Sub Harness that was unused in the sport model is that correct? Used a Line converter?

I included some pictures of my 17' accord touring removal job just for kicks. When I get around to installing the system in my new car, I will share my experience.

Installers earn their money. :)
 

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I added a system to mine as well....a bit of a headache but well worth it. Expensive too...but you get what you pay for I guess. Had to modify the deck and the door speaker opening to make those mids work. The most important part of this whole upgrade is the JL Audio Fix 86 and the Twk 88. Took about two days of work and a day of calibrating the system. Great outcome....I will be opening the rear deck up again to add some sound dampening material and make my rattle go away...Also, You MUST disconnect the ANC module. I tried to get away without it....and it went south....as soon as you take off it starts to make the subwoofer go crazy.


Door Speakers
JL Audio C-3 650's - 6.5"

Deck Speakers-
JL Audio C-3 650's - 6.5"

Center Dash Speaker (added, Did not have existing)-
JL Audio C-2 350 - 3-1/2"

Subwoofer-
JL Audio HO110-W6v3

Amplifiers:
JL Audio 300/4 V3
JL Audio 600/1 V3

Processor:
Fix 86 & Twk 88
Nice system!!!! That rear deck rattle is the middle brake light plastic vibrating against the back window.
 

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I just tore my stereo out of my 2017 Accord Touring before trading it in for a 19' Accord Sport 2.0 6spd.

1. Hertz Mille Legends up front
2. JL C3's in the rear
3. Amp Bypass from Ebay
4. Jl Audio 900/5 powering it all
5. Jl Audio 12w6v3

I have 30 miles on my new car and just can't get the willpower to tear everything apart. It took me 12 hours to remove this system from the 17' Touring. I ran everything through factory harnesses. Spared no time installing that bad boy.

I would love to have it in my sport. Its a **** of a job. I sound deaden the doors and rear deck and trunk space makes for a much tighter sound.

So from what I hear the OP spliced into the Sub Harness that was unused in the sport model is that correct? Used a Line converter?

I included some pictures of my 17' accord touring removal job just for kicks. When I get around to installing the system in my new car, I will share my experience.

Installers earn their money. :)
Nice setup! I have the same HERTZ Mille Legends for the front, but how did you installed the front tweeter? The Hertz Tweeter is too big for the factory sail panel. Right now I only replaced the front mid-range.
 

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For those who have added an aftermarket amp, do you know how the stock system is wired for the tweeters? I have a 2019 Accord Sport with the 180 watt system. I bought a small amp, but can't figure out how to install it using the factory wiring/factory speakers. According to the info Crutchfield sent me, the factory wiring has separate wire pairs coming from the head unit to the mid woofers and the tweeters, both front and rear. So, I assume that means the tweeters are crossed over from within the factory amp/HU? If so, does that mean I can't install an aftermarket amp without running new wires and adding aftermarket crossovers at the speakers?



I don't how I'd wire a four-channel amp if I have 8 pairs of speaker wires going in and out of it to go to the components front and rear.



Maybe I'm dummy and I'm thinking about this wrong?



Appreciate any insight you guys have!
 

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For those who have added an aftermarket amp, do you know how the stock system is wired for the tweeters? I don't know how I'd wire a four-channel amp if I have 8 pairs of speaker wires going in and out of it to go to the components front and rear.

After pulling things apart and shooting a quick email to Crutchfield support, I think I figured out the answer to my own question. If this helps anyone else in the future:

The stock HU on the 180w system sends 16 wires total, two pairs (4) on each of the four channels. The mids and stock tweeters are run in parallel with +/- wires for each on the same channel. It would seem the HU isn't crossing anything over for the tweeters; they get full signal and have their own capacitors at the speaker to filter out the lows. So, if you're installing a four-channel amp you can/should merge the two pairs of wires on each channel from the stock harness into your amp, then run new wires from the amp or merge back into the two pairs in the stock harness. At least that's what Crutchfield told me to do...

I didn't do that. I decided not to install the amp at all. I felt uncomfortable cutting up my stock wiring like that. Maybe if/when a good breakout harness becomes available I'll consider it.

For now, here's what I did to my 180w system:

- I replaced the front door speakers with a set of low-impedance JBL components (2.3 ohm, 45w rms). It's one of those sets that's designed to be a factory replacement powered by stock HUs, but can also handle the power of a small amp if desired.

- I put a cheap Sound Ordnance 8" powered sub under the passenger seat. I ran the power line to an unused slot on the fuse box, grounded it to the body under the seat area, and ran the remote turn-on to the accessory power going into the stock HU.

After some tuning, that cheap little sub sounds pretty good. All I cared about was adding some clarity and filling out the low-end. I don't listen to music particularly loud, so I don't foresee ever needing the amp. That little 8" sub more than fills out the sound. I had to turn it way down to get it to a point where it wasn't overpowering.

All in all, I'm happy now. And the total investment was less than 200 bucks.
 

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2018 2.0 Touring stock amp specs

I have a 2018 2.0T with the 480W system and want to replace the stock 8" sub for an aftermarket 8" sub (likely shallow-free air Pioneer) to keep trunk space. Does anyone know how much the factory amp pushes to the sub? I am replacing the stock speakers with Focal component ISS 165, so I may need to add a 5-channel anyway, but will be trying the Focals with stock amp before making that decision. Also will be sound dampening the doors, trunk, and maybe the floors. Thoughts? Thanks.
 

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Will morel 1" tweeters fit in a 10th gen 2.0? I have 2 new sets of morel componets. Also i need a dsp to hook up amps right? Was looking at the axcess dsp i already got the t harness.
 

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I too added a sub, but I went a step further and replaced all the 6 inch speakers inside the car. When the audio store dealer showed me the stock sub I laughed ?....loving the new sound and the bass....now I just need to insulate and get rid of some rattles.
 

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I upgraded to 2 12s. Rockford p2s. Suck a difference. I haven’t change the interior speakers yet but soon. Doesn’t sound bad with them though. The ANC threw me for a loop. Omg was the feedback horrible !!!
 

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I just installed a Rockford Fosgate 12" P3 Sub and R500X1D Mono block amp. This sub slams, I was going to get two twelves but glad I didn't. There was no issue with the ANC module as it was one of the things that they looked for and we would have noticed because it creates a horrible feedback sound. I have the 2018 2.0 Sport and it installed and ran as normal. No need to do anything to the ANC module. As far as install goes, I used a low level line converter and put it on the existing Sub Speaker wire essentially making the input to the amp all bass. System sounds amazing, I have the remote bass level set at 1/4 turn, I never thought one 12 would hit so hard. I am thinking of removing the small 8" sub the car came with to allow more air to enter the cabin from the trunk, gives it more kick. Here are some pics. I highly recommend this product. $1000 installed out the door. See attached pics.
How did you ground the AMP? They are having problems grounding the AMP
 

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I have a 2020 Accord 2.0T with the 180w amp is there any way I can switch to the 450w that the Touring comes with and get away with just installing new speakers all around ?
 

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I have a 2020 Accord 2.0T with the 180w amp is there any way I can switch to the 450w that the Touring comes with and get away with just installing new speakers all around ?
You would need to replace everything...Swap the HU, add the factory amp, and the new wiring harness, add the center channel, add the factory sub, and after all that you would be very disappointed in the very minimal sound improvements...lol...
 

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I upgraded my 2019 2.0 stereo.. factory stereo was awful! I kept the factory head unit, changed the front and rear interior speakers with Focal components powered by a 500w JL audio amp giving them 125 watts a side x4 also 2 W3 10” in a bass box in the trunk subs powered by a kicker 880 watt amp.. 440 watts a sub with a wireless bass knob installed behind the shifter.. it sounds much much better now!!
 

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I’m on the fence I’ve seen people adding just an amp and a sub. what about the front and rear speakers ? they suck ... how much improvement can you get just with a sub?
 

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I’m on the fence I’ve seen people adding just an amp and a sub. what about the front and rear speakers ? they suck ... how much improvement can you get just with a sub?
ITS relative off course.
I’m in a middle of an upgrade and it is a crap shoot every step of the way. main unit is inadequate as far as DSP , the ANC messes with the bottom end. Basically don’t mess with it. If it’s really bothering you switch the front tweeters to something more to your liking and replace the middle 3.5 inch speaker with a coaxial to match your new tweeters. That’s it!! everything else is more trouble than it’s worth replacing.

If you really want you can switch the sub with one of the Kicker 8” units. Don’t bother with amps and other speakers.
 

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It depends on how you want your system to sound. You can get your stereo to sound really good just by adding power, adding sub(s) and upgrading all of your speakers. Doing these things can drastically improve the sound but it depends on your preference.. take a factory speakers.. compare it to a a quality aftermarket speaker you can tell just by holding the 2 in your hands how cheap the factory speakers are.. that’s one reason the sound quality is lacking.. add some juice and some punch and you will not believe It’s the same system your listening to!
 
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