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Adding aftermarket head unit

2K views 21 replies 2 participants last post by  ItsonlyAHonda 
#1 ·
Yo whats goin on? Being you can't replace the stock radio, how difficult would it be to add an aftermarket head unit to say the glove box or center console? i wanted to add another head unit just for the stereo system. Im not worried about losing chimes or steering wheel controls. Can this be done?
 
#3 ·
So I have a full system installed already with LOCs and DSPs with acubass and all the bells and whistles. Still after months of tinkering around with it, its not what it should be. I been doin car stereos for years and these new vehicles make it so difficult. At this point all I want is a good single din head unit with no distortion and pre amp outs like the good ol days. Problem solved.
 
#4 ·
Do you have the 8 or 10 channel sound system? What DSP are you running? I have the 10ch and I got my signal pretty clean. You may just need a good tune. This is what mine looks like with a 3way front stage along with a 2way centre a front sub and rear sub playing together (all active with their own amp channel). I'm getting signal from the factory amp straight to my DSP/Amp. Then the DSP has an input EQ to flatten out the factory signal. Get you a Helix DSP wich will probly cost the same as a new head unit plus the modifications you will have to do. Or you cloud use a DAC into your DSP and completely bypass the head unit all together. They sell a Bluetooth dongle that can go straight to the DSP also.


Grille Hood Light Blue Building



This is a link to my build uf your interested, I haven't updated it in a lil bit but it will explain what I did.

 
#6 ·
Did you get the signal from the front doors or rear deck? The rear deck speakers are highly processed and are a garbage signal source. On the 8 channel is easy to get a full signal from the front door. No summing or any extra effort to get a full range signal. The 8 channel system is actually a 4 channel, left and right, front and rear. The woofer has a passive crossover or capacitor for the tweeter so each channel shares the same signal and power. It just splits the frequency for the tweeter and mid.
 
#8 ·
The rear signal is no good. And to get the signal for the sub you'll just sum the front left and right.

Summing the front with the back is probly your issue. Let's say you Sum the rear left with the front left. Both signals are similar and may cancel each other out.

I'd just use the front signal for everything including your rear speakers. There's no need to sum the rears with the fronts. Both front and rear signals are full range. Except the rears are processed and tuned down.

On the 10 channel system you actually need to sum quite a bit. It actually has 10 seperate channels front L+R Mid/tweeter, rear L+R mid/tweeter, centre and sub. To get a full range signal the you need to sum the left mid+tweeter+sub. Same for the right side. But the 8 channel system both left and right mid get full range.
 
#12 ·
Without using the rear speaker level inputs I get no sound from rear speakers. The channel link option in the DSP isnt working properly for some reason. Summing or linking will not give me sound no matter what. I have to use all wires or all speakers will not work. Either im doing something wrong or my Audiocontrol amp/dsp is not working like it should.
 
#14 ·
Yes i was on the laptop all morning trying to learn. I need more patience LOL. But im no longer summing the front and rears to get the sub channel you were 100% correct on that. Thank you! Also I unplugged the speaker level inputs for the rears so they are no longer connected to the audiocontrol amp. I should try summing the front and rears now. Why didnt I think of this earlier? Ill try this as soon as i get home n let you know.
 
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