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2018 accord 1.5 MT with 135,000+ miles.

I stop driving it for about 2 weeks. I was doing some suspension work on it and the battery did die. The car was driving ok till after a few miles. All the lights and check engine lights came on. I noticed I had no boost at all. Having an AEM boost gauge I saw I had no boost. It said to take in to the dealership ASAP. So I pulled over and unplugged the battery for a few seconds the car was back to normal.

The following morning I when out for an alignment. Everything was ok till after the alignment was done. All lights came back on. So I took it to my homie's shop. To reset the computer and see if any codes come up. Everything came up lol but he did a reset on my ECU, car worked great for a few days. He said I may need a battery but we need to run more tests on it.

A few days later the same thing happened, So I did the same and unplugged the battery, car runs great till I turn it off. Once I turn it on again no lights go on. If I gas it to like 4.5 rpm all lights go on. If I unplug the battery and turn on the car all lights go off till I turn off the car n turn it on again.

Has anyone run into something like this? Help!! Do I actually need a battery?
 

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2018 Accord Sport 2.0T 6MT
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At this point checking and probably replacing the battery won't hurt, a weak battery can cause all sorts of loss of communication errors on newer cars. What other mods do you have aside from the boost gauge? And did anybody every pull codes to see if you're having any boost or fuel related codes tripping the CEL?
 

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2018 accord 1.5 MT with 135,000+ miles.
i stop driving it for about 2 weeks. I was doing some suspension work on it and battery did die. Car was driving ok till after a few miles. All the lights and check engine lights came on.I noticed I had no boost at all. Having a AEM boost gauge I saw I had no boost. It said to take in to the dealership ASAP. So I pulled over and unplugged the battery for a few seconds the car was back to normal. The fallowing morning I when out for a alignment. Everything was ok till after the alignment was done. All lights came back on . So I took it to my homies shop. To reset the computer and see if any codes come up. Everything came up lol but he did a reset on my ecu , car worked great for a few days . He said I may need a battery but we need to run more test on it . A few days later same thing happened, So I did the same and unplug the battery, car runs great till I turn it off. Once I turn it on again no lights go on . If I gas it to like 4.5 rpm all lights go on . If I unplug the battery and turn on car all lights go off till I turn off the car n turn on again. Has anyone run in to something like this ? Help!! Do I actually need a battery?
Probably not, considering that you can get it tested and see the results. However, you can play safe and buy another one. No matter if this one is new or used.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
At this point checking and probably replacing the battery won't hurt, a weak battery can cause all sorts of loss of communication errors on newer cars. What other mods do you have aside from the boost gauge? And did anybody every pull codes to see if you're having any boost or fuel related codes tripping the CEL?
I got a new negative post since our has a Sensor , I also replaced the battery since it wasn’t holding any charger. Also got the codes deleted. But once I drove off parked and started the car again lights came back on. So I thought I had a short . I checked for one but didn’t find anything. My homie said it a short he is a mechanic and owns a shop . But idk if that’s it . Now he is being a dick and doesn’t wanna give me the code since all the lights go on . So I’m looking for a scanner now so I can do my own stuff . I’m thinking it might be my injectors since it does have 138k mile on it . Can’t be the spark plugs since I change them out at 100k it might be my coils as well . I need to get the code 1st . If anyone can recommend me a good cheap 0BD2 scanner that will allow me to delete the codes as well that would be great help. I also got a recall so I may take it in . About other parts I have on are a AFE intake with a PRL Holes ,a front pipe and a 3” exhaust system. Idk if it matters but it’s a 6 speed
 

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I got a new negative post since our has a Sensor , I also replaced the battery since it wasn’t holding any charger. Also got the codes deleted. But once I drove off parked and started the car again lights came back on. So I thought I had a short . I checked for one but didn’t find anything. My homie said it a short he is a mechanic and owns a shop . But idk if that’s it . Now he is being a dick and doesn’t wanna give me the code since all the lights go on . So I’m looking for a scanner now so I can do my own stuff . I’m thinking it might be my injectors since it does have 138k mile on it . Can’t be the spark plugs since I change them out at 100k it might be my coils as well . I need to get the code 1st . If anyone can recommend me a good cheap 0BD2 scanner that will allow me to delete the codes as well that would be great help. I also got a recall so I may take it in . About other parts I have on are a AFE intake with a PRL Holes ,a front pipe and a 3” exhaust system. Idk if it matters but it’s a 6 speed
Did you ever figure out what the issue was? I’m having the same issues after a battery replacement. I figured I bought a faulty battery so I purchased a new directly from honda. (They told me it was the battery) Turns out it wasn’t they’re now replacing a cracked spark plug and want to adjust my engine valves. However that was the suggested maintenance on my vehicle because it’s at 100k. I bought a code scanner before taking it in and it told me I had a cylinder misfire. Not sure if the valve adjustment and misfire would correlate. I just wouldn’t want them to take advantage again.
 

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2018 Accord Sport 2.0T 6MT
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Did you ever figure out what the issue was? I’m having the same issues after a battery replacement. I figured I bought a faulty battery so I purchased a new directly from honda. (They told me it was the battery) Turns out it wasn’t they’re now replacing a cracked spark plug and want to adjust my engine valves. However that was the suggested maintenance on my vehicle because it’s at 100k. I bought a code scanner before taking it in and it told me I had a cylinder misfire. Not sure if the valve adjustment and misfire would correlate. I just wouldn’t want them to take advantage again.
Cracked plug could absolutely cause a misfire, I've been there before. Valves in need of adjustment could also play a role in that. A loose valve doesn't operate efficiently and could lead to an unclean burn of the fuel which causes a misfire.
 

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At this point checking and probably replacing the battery won't hurt, a weak battery can cause all sorts of loss of communication errors on newer cars. What other mods do you have aside from the boost gauge? And did anybody every pull codes to see if you're having any boost or fuel related codes tripping the CEL?
Did you figure it out?
 
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