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New to the "turbo" game and learning/educating myself as I read what is posted. Regarding this company and their blow off/bypass valves I see they offer a blow off valve & bypass valve for the 1.5T, and only a bypass valve for the 2.0. With that said I had to educate myself on the difference and found this video that explains them...
Is this common for the 2.0 only to have a bypass valve or just this company isn't offering a blow off valve?
 

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New to the "turbo" game and learning/educating myself as I read what is posted. Regarding this company and their blow off/bypass valves I see they offer a blow off valve & bypass valve for the 1.5T, and only a bypass valve for the 2.0. With that said I had to educate myself on the difference and found this video that explains them...
Is this common for the 2.0 only to have a bypass valve or just this company isn't offering it?
Hey dude...long time no talk...I hope you and the family are doing well! The K20C4 appears to be the most efficient with the bypass valve configuration instead of the vent-to-atmosphere blow-off valve which throws off quite a few values if you attempt to install one. I have worked Boomba Racing for many years now and their products are well researched and engineered before they ever put them on their site for purchase. Let me know if I can help in any way...:cool:!
 

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BTW... for performance purposes which is better... blow off or bypass valve?
Hey dude...long time no talk...I hope you and the family are doing well! The K20C4 appears to be the most efficient with the bypass valve configuration instead of the vent-to-atmosphere blow-off valve which throws off quite a few values if you attempt to install one. I have worked Boomba Racing for many years now and their products are well researched and engineered before they ever put them on their site for purchase. Let me know if I can help in any way...:cool:!
I was just about to ask as you were posting which would be the best valve as it regards to efficiency/performance. Thanks for the feedback. (y)

BTW... family and I are doing well... making the best of the #stayathome time we are in. Wishing you and your family are well too. Thanks for asking. 🙏
 

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BTW... for performance purposes which is better... blow off or bypass valve?

I was just about to ask as you were posting which would be the best valve as it regards to efficiency/performance. Thanks for the feedback. (y)

BTW... family and I are doing well... making the best of the #stayathome time we are in. Wishing you and your family are well too. Thanks for asking. 🙏
Thanks dude and keep in touch should I be able to help in any way...:cool:!
 

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Was wondering if anyone tried out the boomba bov? Is it any good? Any negative effects to the mpg?
Why do you want it other than to make noise? It's not going to increase performance. The reason why people used to change them on VWs is because the stock valves were frequently made in a diaphragm style design. The rubber would wear out and cause boost issues ect. Nowadays most manufacturers use a piston style, same as the upgraded diverter/bypass valves. So really there is no reason for this it's just a carryover from days past that some tuners use to make money on.
 

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Why do you want it other than to make noise? It's not going to increase performance. The reason why people used to change them on VWs is because the stock valves were frequently made in a diaphragm style design. The rubber would wear out and cause boost issues ect. Nowadays most manufacturers use a piston style, same as the upgraded diverter/bypass valves. So really there is no reason for this it's just a carryover from days past that some tuners use to make money on.
Tin and cheap rubber VS anodized aluminum and brass with are a HUGE difference. So yes...aftermarket that is well manufactured far surpasses the OEM parts...:cool:!
 

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You didn't answer the key fact and your stating your subjective opinions with no fact. Is the stock valves a diaphragm or piston design? If it's a piston design and it's not failing, which really it wouldn't, the only "HUGH difference" is it looks cooler and sounds obnoxious. It fixes no problem and offers no performance benefits whatsoever. It only surpasses the OEM part in your perception of being "😎".
 

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You didn't answer the key fact and your stating your subjective opinions with no fact. Is the stock valves a diaphragm or piston design? If it's a piston design and it's not failing, which really it wouldn't, the only "HUGH difference" is it looks cooler and sounds obnoxious. It fixes no problem and offers no performance benefits whatsoever. It only surpasses the OEM part in your perception of being "😎".
Actually dude...it holds the boost...since the moment myself and anyone else I know went past stock boost levels you can see it leaking on throttle. As soon as the Boomba Racing part was installed the boost held all the way through and better numbers were achieved. Dyno proven numbers and real-world 1/4 mile experience when I ran at Maryland International Racetrack at Honda Day during the fall last year prove I am not just some clown going off of theory. Thanks for your input though!
 

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Actually dude...it holds the boost...since the moment myself and anyone else I know went past stock boost levels you can see it leaking on throttle. As soon as the Boomba Racing part was installed the boost held all the way through and better numbers were achieved. Dyno proven numbers and real-world 1/4 mile experience when I ran at Maryland International Racetrack at Honda Day during the fall last year prove I am not just some clown going off of theory. Thanks for your input though!
Cool show me the logs and back to back Dyno and 1/4 times and logs please. Yes back to back otherwise your data is junk. Amazing that you see this yet Hondata and and Ktuner, who have been doing this for years and does does extensive testing on their products don't feel this necessary and only one company makes an "upgrade" for the stock turbo. You still haven't answered the simple question as usual. Is the stock a piston or diaphragm design? If you were seeing and increase in pressure your stock valve was failing either or had a boost leak. Here is some real info for people who choose not to take your word or some marketing info.

Furthermore you could also be going from an electronic controlled valve to a slower mechanical one.
 

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Cool show me the logs and back to back Dyno and 1/4 times and logs please. Yes back to back otherwise your data is junk. Amazing that you see this yet Hondata and and Ktuner, who have been doing this for years and does does extensive testing on their products don't feel this necessary and only one company makes an "upgrade" for the stock turbo. You still haven't answered the simple question as usual. Is the stock a piston or diaphragm design? If you were seeing and increase in pressure your stock valve was failing either or had a boost leak. Here is some real info for people who choose not to take your word or some marketing info.

Furthermore you could also be going from an electronic controlled valve to a slower mechanical one.
Ok...first of all since you have a hybrid you shouldn't even care what the all-gas cars are running...and you have been a forum trouble starter before and been silenced for it. You can look at my posts and see my times if you knew how to use the search function...and it is quite easy to find a stock 2.0T time-slip as well...:)! If you are going to thread-hijack and talk garbage we don't need or want you on here with us. Think about your way to do things and come back with a better attitude.
 

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Ok...first of all since you have a hybrid you shouldn't even care what the all-gas cars are running...and you have been a forum trouble starter before and been silenced for it. You can look at my posts and see my times if you knew how to use the search function...and it is quite easy to find a stock 2.0T time-slip as well...:)! If you are going to thread-hijack and talk garbage we don't need or want you on here with us. Think about your way to do things and come back with a better attitude.
Let me refresh your memory here but it was you and your general tire buddy who got silenced and thread was closed. You two also can't seem to answer simple questions or prove anything when confronted about the false information you give. I didn't ask for a stock time slip. You said you have all the data proving the valve works so share it. Why is that so hard? Show us the 1/4mile or Dyno or logs, anything you said you have as proof of logs on the same day before and after the install, which you said you have, showing this. That's the data I asked for.
Furthermore what does the fact that I have a hybrid now as a daily driver have anything whatsoever to do with my knowledge of modified turbo vehicles which I drove exclusively for over 20 years (and still have one in my garage). So do my parents, and my GF. I have more than likely forgotten more about modifying turbo vehicles with everything I have done to them than..... So is all that knowledge moot because I drive a hybrid now?
I HAVE read your posts, and this is a typical one saying something as fact then when asked a question you get angry and defensive then attacking someone. I simply asked for logs and data you said you had to help further educate people yet you can't provide that to have a normal conversation.
You have a stock valve you could easily go look at and help the community. Go open it up and look at it. I provided a link that shows what your looking for as far as a diaphragm. While I may have extensive knowledge of turbo vehicles, I don't know every part on everyone. Hence me asking what type of valve the OEM one is. Don't know why it's constantly so hard for you to be helpful instead of argumentative when you have the ability to help. Surely anyone who has their logs ect could do easily do the swap themselves and would still have the OEM parts and didn't throw them away. #ignoringyoutoo
 

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Let me refresh your memory here but it was you and your general tire buddy who got silenced and thread was closed. You two also can't seem to answer simple questions or prove anything when confronted about the false information you give. I didn't ask for a stock time slip. You said you have all the data proving the valve works so share it. Why is that so hard? Show us the 1/4mile or Dyno or logs, anything you said you have as proof of logs on the same day before and after the install, which you said you have, showing this. That's the data I asked for.
Furthermore what does the fact that I have a hybrid now as a daily driver have anything whatsoever to do with my knowledge of modified turbo vehicles which I drove exclusively for over 20 years (and still have one in my garage). So do my parents, and my GF. I have more than likely forgotten more about modifying turbo vehicles with everything I have done to them than..... So is all that knowledge moot because I drive a hybrid now?
I HAVE read your posts, and this is a typical one saying something as fact then when asked a question you get angry and defensive then attacking someone. I simply asked for logs and data you said you had to help further educate people yet you can't provide that to have a normal conversation.
You have a stock valve you could easily go look at and help the community. Go open it up and look at it. I provided a link that shows what your looking for as far as a diaphragm. While I may have extensive knowledge of turbo vehicles, I don't know every part on everyone. Hence me asking what type of valve the OEM one is. Don't know why it's constantly so hard for you to be helpful instead of argumentative when you have the ability to help. Surely anyone who has their logs ect could do easily do the swap themselves and would still have the OEM parts and didn't throw them away. #ignoringyoutoo
The stock part was discarded the day the aftermarket one was installed. I know what the difference between the types is too...thanks though...I have been in this game for quite a while. If you want intel you can look it up just as well as anyone else interested in the OEM part configuration. I offered intel what the original poster requested and nothing more. Move along buddy...we have no time for this...(y)!
 

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The stock part was discarded the day the aftermarket one was installed. I know what the difference between the types is too...thanks though...I have been in this game for quite a while. If you want intel you can look it up just as well as anyone else interested in the OEM part configuration. I offered intel what the original poster requested and nothing more. Move along buddy...we have no time for this...(y)!
So what you're saying is that you don't have any dyno data that you can show?
 

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All hat and no cattle
I would not hold my breath man it's obvious he has no actual data or knowledge. Something else I forgot to mention about this Boomba valve in particular is that the spring is probably waaay to heavy for stock turbo applications. This can give a "worble" like sound at part throttle and effect driveability because the spring is too tight to open the valve under lighter boost scenarios. I could be wrong but the spring is rated at 75psi which is concerning to me. Here is a very good thread about proper spring pressure for your application. Remember if your diverter valve is not holding boost it's faulty and leaking. Under throttle the valve is closed. In a pure mechanical setup they are vacuum operated meaning the valve is opened by the vacuum when letting off the throttle. Nowadays they are also electronically operated which helps improve throttle response and transitions and make everything smoother. If you want to do a proper upgrade I would contact

TurboXs makes a valve for the Honda engines. I would contact them and see what their spring rate is and Forge Motorsports and see what the recommended based on your setup (the don't make a valve specific for Honda but they probably have a universal one that fits if you are someone interested because of valve failure from mods. They probably have different springs they can supply you as well to adjust it as your mods change.
Edit: I would also stick with a fully recirculating valve not a hybrid blowoff one. Boomba makes one of these as well. You still will get a pshh sound especially if you have an intake but it will be more muted.
 
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