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Engine rattle on cold start, VTC and other - video in comments

14K views 30 replies 3 participants last post by  Fired00d 
#1 · (Edited)
This started occurring in the last two weeks.

2018 Honda Accord Sport trim 2.0t 10AT 26.5k miles No error/CEL in the dashboard.

No mods, all services performed. The rattle only occurs when the car has not reached operating temperature, and is in park/neutral. Under load, the rattle stops entirely. There is a whine when you accelerate briskly from gears 1-2-3 from a dead stop. The whine is very faint, but can be heard inside the cabin, and is similar to the sound made by a steering pump running low on fluid.
The only changes that have occurred before issues, outside of themps coming down for the fall, is the car was serviced by the dealer for the 25k mile service. This included cabin and engine air filter changes, oil change, and transmission fluid change. It was brought to the dealer to get this service done because the oil was due, and decided to get the filters and trans oil change done (30k mile service).

I still have Honda Care and the car is under warranty. Anyone willing to comment on this, especially if you experienced a similar issue, would be great. Thanks.

Video of rattle -

Got the car back yesterday and all things were back to normal per the dealer. Go to start the car this morning and the VTC rattle is still there only less noticeable, then the other rattle/knock starts sounding off. I will be test driving the car to see if I still get a whine under load.

I will take it back to the dealer today at noon and insist they keep it until they verify the issue is no more. Fingers crossed they resolve it and I don't need a new motor...
 
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#2 ·
I can hear something but can't say for sure what it is. Your temps (low 50 & 70 @ when video was done) are IMO significant enough to be weather (cold temp) related. One thing that comes to mind of what I've heard/experienced on other vehicles is it might be a lifter (if our cars have them) bleeding down overnight and then building back up after a start up. If you still have warranty I would show this video to your dealer of choice and maybe leave the car w/them overnight so they can do a cold start to hear it/diagnose it.
 
#7 ·
Got the car back yesterday and all things were back to normal per the dealer. Go to start the car this morning and the VTC rattle is still there only less noticeable, then the other rattle/knock starts sounding off. I will be test driving the car to see if I still get a whine under load.

I will take it back to the dealer today at noon and insist they keep it until they verify the issue is no more. Fingers crossed they resolve it and I don't need a new motor...
The quote above is from your first post which I take was added (edited) to your original post and after your post on 12/16. If so that sucks that problem still exists...keep us updated.

BTW you may want to make a new post and not edit your original post w/updates.... much easier to follow along/understand how it's progressing.
 
#9 ·
As We need to hear Up Dated Noise - Sound - as It might be Tiny Pc s. of something Plugged a Lifter or Cam Follower . .
I have also heard Turbo Blades Rubbing a Housing , that usually only after a Slight Miss Alignment during Assembly - Normally
Might Happen during a Turbo Replacement or Stress after Impact - Body shops will only do Body work , then they'll try to Skip on other Repairs . .

There's Isn't any History Posted on this Vehicle . . as In Bought New , or No Accidents . .
 
#12 ·
Well, I have been going back and forth to the dealer and have not had the issue resolved. The noises are still the same, Hard VTC rattle at cold start followed by what is now a grind from the top of the motor. I am honestly thinking of taking it to a privately-owned dealership to see if I have any luck with this matter. Here is a video from 1/5:

 
#13 ·
Wow sounds like someone Added 15W-40 or 15W-50 Oil
Hoping U haven't Changed Oil in - Awhile .. It's Best to Get Oil Sample - Quickly . .
I Swap Out - Current Oil Filter - make a Video of You Pour Oil out Oil for Sample to be sent Out $24 Bucks will Prove Possible 5000K Replacement .. Faster Better !

Then Cut Open Oil Filter 4 Inside Inspection with 10X Lens - White Linen and all that . . Fast !

Did Dealer Pull Oil Pressure Test with Readings and all - Make then Prove It - Print It ! Etc. No Time for BS

Slap on High Flow K&N Oil Filter they do Flow better .. ( I have heard of some Bad Oil Filters ) being made also . .
Lets Us Know . .

Oil Passage Holes are Very , Very Small could be 1 got Plugged .. or a Cam has an Over Tq. Condition from Factory -- Guessing from Sound ..

I'd also look for something Simple - Like a Heat Shield Vibration Pc. of Hardware ( Small Bolt ) Floating around Under the Factor Plastic Coil Covers etc.

When You Top Off Oil from Swapping Out Filter - Add 0-5w , as I don't Know If You changed Oil or a garage . . Right Now with Pandemic Going
Not much work for Mechanic's or anything like Over Time .. I'd be Doing Items
Myself or Watching & Checking like a Hawk !
 
#14 ·
Wow sounds like someone Added 15W-40 or 15W-50 Oil
Hoping U haven't Changed Oil in - Awhile .. It's Best to Get Oil Sample - Quickly . .
I Swap Out - Current Oil Filter - make a Video of You Pour Oil out Oil for Sample to be sent Out $24 Bucks will Prove Possible 5000K Replacement .. Faster Better !

Then Cut Open Oil Filter 4 Inside Inspection with 10X Lens - White Linen and all that . . Fast !

Did Dealer Pull Oil Pressure Test with Readings and all - Make then Prove It - Print It ! Etc. No Time for BS

Slap on High Flow K&N Oil Filter they do Flow better .. ( I have heard of some Bad Oil Filters ) being made also . .
Lets Us Know . .

Oil Passage Holes are Very , Very Small could be 1 got Plugged .. or a Cam has an Over Tq. Condition from Factory -- Guessing from Sound ..

I'd also look for something Simple - Like a Heat Shield Vibration Pc. of Hardware ( Small Bolt ) Floating around Under the Factor Plastic Coil Covers etc.

When You Top Off Oil from Swapping Out Filter - Add 0-5w , as I don't Know If You changed Oil or a garage . . Right Now with Pandemic Going
Not much work for Mechanic's or anything like Over Time .. I'd be Doing Items
Myself or Watching & Checking like a Hawk !
I'm thinking about taking it to another dealer (non-corporate owned). This is really pissing me off. This has had the same issue since mid-novermber...
 
#15 ·
My Honda does Not make that Oil Missing Sound upon Cold Start - it could be Oil Drain Back Valve STOP - has Not been Working Properly
During First 1/2 sec. , which also makes Me think Too Thick Oil in It or Lazy Pump , Anti Drain Back NOT Working - as it sounded like You had just Placed a New Dry Filter on - Only Worst . .
 
#18 ·
If so then Sample Time - to Protect Yourself !
There are Big Difference in Dealers for SURE !


Hope You have been Documenting this in Writing , Make them Sign Your Paper Work !
As You have No Idea - what Servie Writter is Inputting !
 
#21 ·
You can all Receipts in World If A Hole - Punching in Info Keeps - Changing it just little Bit - it looks to be Different Repair . .

Cover You Butt - C.Y.A

NOT GOOD .. 3 Time Strike Out - Lemon Law 2021 Here U come - get Tough ..

Time for New Head @ Very Least - OIL SAMPLE will Protect U as to what's Going On inside - Motor . .

I New Guy that Dealer Stroking Off for 6-9 months - then Auto maker Says You Took to Long to Tell Us what Real Problem is ..

That Guy then Took Car out in Front of Dealer - Blow Up the Motor - Right in Front Their Building - The Called TV News Channel - He got New Motor & FAST !

Just Protect Yourself at Every Step !
 
#23 ·
Log the Entire Thing - ( Write it all Up ) Have Service manger Sign IT ,
Have a Sit down to have it Signed .. See What He does then . . He Blinks , He Hesitates , He comes up Excuses . . Get It Signed !
TIME TO GET REAL ..
Lemon Law doesn't work based on ticks and rattles. The car has to have multiple failures for the same cause over a period of time and deemed unacceptable by a court. It could go anyway, and in all honesty, the easiest solution to this problem is for me to trade it in for another car. At this time it has 26K miles, if it takes a dump and needs a new motor, I have until 60k for the powertrain warranty to run out. I may trade it in right at about 35k to get a decent resale value. We will see. It just sucks that I bought this car because I wanted a good reliable vehicle from a reputable manufacturer, and my brother bought a used 6-speed 392 challenger and his Dodge has had flawless reliability whereas I have fkn tics, rattles, and grinding on cold starts. I guess you win some you lose some.
 
#24 ·
Hhmmm I have never had to use it , but certainly seems like same Items causing same issues and UN-Resolved - Heading for Number 3 . . . Plus

Certainly Privately Own Honda - Like Rusty Wallace in TN or Honda Dealer that's has some Racing History like a few in Indianapolis . . thinking Indy 500 . .

I have also seem Mechanic's shops go out for their way to Keep Customer coming back , so they May Punch that Warranty Ticket ( Ding , Ding ) Money Bell
is Not Beyond some .. I caught a Guy Pouring Empty Oil Can into a Corvette .. then Charging for 2 qts. of Oil & Air Cleaner . .
 
#25 ·
Well, there is a new development! At my place, the driveway is on a 5-10% incline and I parked the car facing downward a couple of days ago without thinking about it. If you know where this is going, I started the car yesterday morning and it did not make any weird noises. Called the dealer and they were perplexed, so I am taking the car for an oil change and having them use Mobil1 full synthetic products. See if that fixes/changes the issue. I am over the dealership, will not be bringing them the car again. They should've caught this as a oil starvation issue.
 
#27 ·
15 Degrees shouldn't Make Difference ( If It was Full ) , but Hope it's something Simple Like Wrong too Thick Oil , or Crap Oil Filter - I did Hear some Rejected Oil Filter's had
made their way into Market Place .. , But that was on After Market Filters Not Honda's . .

I'd Inspect all Plugs - it's easy to do .. Very Closely 10X
 
#28 ·
OH , Make then Give You Filter that Comes Off Motor - make Sure it's Your Filter ( CHECKING ON THEM )
Cut that Filter Open - Inspect Inside ,, could be Bad Filter or Plugged with Crap as they have been ~ Changing Oil ~ NOT Filter !

Several Dealers do this . .
 
#29 ·
I'd also - Pour 5-6 OZ of Marvel Mystery Oil in Crank Case 3 day Before Oil Change , to Give Motor a Wash Out ..Drive 100 Miles at Least to get Good Wash Out ..

It's Possible It has had a Tight Oil Pump Assembly - which was Dragging a lot on Chain Tension which wore it Pre_Maturely - ( They Should have Done Free Oil Change )
Just as Preventive Medical for this Motor - seeing Work They were doing Period
 
#30 ·
Well, I finally got an update for this issue.

After taking it back to the dealer, they contacted the regional engineer to come out and look at the car.

They found nothing on the top end or engine accessories, so they kept going and taring the engine apart until they found the culprit.

Yesterday I received two pictures from my SA and both were of engine rod bearings that were showing copper. At this time the dealer is going to follow what the engineer states is the best course of action, and it seems so far they will replace the short block. Hopefully this nightmare ends soon; I am done dealing with this problem.
 
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