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So, I just did my first oil change. When looking in the setting on the dash it went down to 15% before saying I had to take it in. And the letter under the percentage was A. After the oil change I checked it a few hours later ( sometimes these dealerships don’t reset it ) and it said 100. But hen said B under it. Then later that day hours later, it shows B1. What’s that all about ?
 

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I attached the pages from the owner's manual that reference the Maintenance Minder. Looks like "B1" means to change oil and filter, inspect listed items, and rotate your tires.

Didn't actually understood this page in the book until now, so we both learned something
 

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Sounds like the dealer forgot to reset the computer. Is there a chance that your tires actually need rotating? Not sure what your mileage is at.
 

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Sounds like the dealer forgot to reset the computer. Is there a chance that your tires actually need rotating? Not sure what your mileage is at.
They said they didn’t need rotating yet. That next visit they would. I went back there, the guy on the phone said they didn’t reset it. And the guy who I spoke to when I got there said that the services will bounce back between a and b. I think neither of them know wtf they are talking about. They both gave me different answers. Either way you would think it goes back to a, no ?
 

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I have looked at that page as well. I wonder what sense it makes to change oil, but not the filter. Why should there be an A and a B. It seems like B would suffice.
 

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I have looked at that page as well. I wonder what sense it makes to change oil, but not the filter. Why should there be an A and a B. It seems like B would suffice.
Even though it states only oil change I can't believe a dealership would change the oil w/o the filter. When it comes time for me to have mine changed I'm going to request that the filter be changed if for any reason they say it's not included. To me changing the oil w/o the filter would be like taking a shower and putting on the same underclothes you just took off. :surprise: :devil: :grin:
 

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I'd like to Comment about what I have read on this Post , first Great Stuff .
Second I'm Newbie to Honda's

That said , I have been around Cars , Hot Cars , Bikes with Custom Mods & Built a few myself ..
I Raced Snowmobiles & Bikes , from that I gained Years of Experience with Motors & Intakes etc. . .
I Started Porting Items 20 Yrs ago , but took a Break for USAF & College .. I went back doing more Porting approx 10 Yrs. ago just doing stuff on the side . . Enough about Me ..

OK I have removed a Number of Filters from New Motors and Rebuilt Motors , Motors with Newer Much Bigger HP add on's - I got to the Point of Even Cutting Open Filters
to see the Quality and Flow Characteristics , especially the Over Pressure Relief Valve Or By Pass . . OK that said I went Down that Road as I have Had Filters come Off New Motors
in 1000 Miles that Weighted 2lbs more then They Should Have . . on V8 maybe 6-7 Oz. on 5 cly. , so I Feel that One of the Best Insurance - Items You should do to a New Motor and Drive Train is Change that Filter Early . . 2 Reasons 1 Get Rid of any Build Up , 2 to Maintain High Oil Pressure . .

I'm sure some of You must have seen Oil Pressure Drop 5-7 lbs on Oil Pressure Gauge on a Filter that has 5K-6000 Miles on it ..
Before You Jump on Me for that Under stand that New Motors today aren't as Liable to show the same Signs as they Built with Better Quality & Better Oils & Better Filters today .

It still Happens , could just be Filter , , I'd certainly be Smelling Oil - Changing Filter - light Top Off ..

It that doesn't Improve anything - Honda should be doing Oil Pressurize Test . It could be Undersized Hole in the Turbo Bango Feed Bolt , It could be Oil Return Line
Gasket Bolted in with Half the Gasket Material Not Punched Out Cleanly or any 1 of 100 Dumb things ..
 

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It's frustrating not to have the actual maintenance schedules available. I will probably go on a 5,000 mile schedule as I don't put a lot of miles on our cars. The maint minder is secondary for me, the odometer is what I will go by.

On a different note, has anyone installed a Fumoto valve yet? The drain location seems to say that you can use one and it will help me with my aging bumbling hands and fingers in doing an oil change quick on a Saturday morning.
 

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I just changed mine at 4,000 miles since it’s a new motor, I’ll likely do it every 5k afterwards because that’s what I’m comfortable with.
 

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I'll have to look at one of those Valves sounds interesting .. , I used a Boat Pump on My Other Rides as I just didn't want to get Under the Car in the Cold ..
Have a Garage Now so much better ..

My Filter will be coming Off around 3K-4000 Miles and Top Off - It Holding Steady on 100% A I will Report If and When It Changes @ What Miles ..

I Wished they had added Oil Pressure of Oil Temp & Intake Temp & Coolant Temp - other Vehicles have this for at least 5 yrs. anyone Know If the Civic R has more Gauge Functions .

I have to Laugh at Oneself Today - I could Not Figure Out how to Open the Fuel Door , Daaa . .
 

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Important sections in Bold. :)

I changed my oil last night at 15% and 9,185 (Lots of highway miles).

I hate making a mess with oil on the driveway, so, of course I ended up doing that anyway...

I removed the large panel from underneath the engine because the oil drain bolt is right there next to it. Going to get a Fumoto valve for the next time! It looks to me that the standard Fumoto F-106N valve should fit. (But I have not experience with them so don't take my word for it) And, of course I removed the small panel for filter access.

The factory filter was WAY too tight. I have never had an issue removing a filter in 35 years. I ended up performing the "puncture with a screwdriver sideways and use that for leverage" method. That was a new experience!

I went with the Purolator Pure One PL14610 filter as I've had good luck with Purolator for many years.
I used Pennzoil Platinum 0W-20 full synthetic.

While pouring oil in, my funnel moved and I ended up pouring some around the fill hole. :sad: I didn't think it made a mess, but a little later I realized that oil was dripping on the ground from somewhere 4-5 inches behind the drain plug. It stopped quickly though.

I can't tell where the oil level is on the dipstick! I checked it a couple of times in the last 1.5 months and all I could be sure of was that it was full. Too full?

Now that I've drained and refilled with 5 quarts on a 2.0T engine, I still can't tell where the level is. Again, 35 years or so of doing my own oil changes and I've never had this issue.

Anyone else having these kinds of challenges?
 

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That dipstick is rather hard to read I agree. One trick is to wipe the dipstick off really well with a shop rag so that the oil beads on it - mechanic friend showed me.
 

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That dipstick is rather hard to read I agree. One trick is to wipe the dipstick off really well with a shop rag so that the oil beads on it - mechanic friend showed me.
I've always done that. :)
Engine off on level ground; Pull it out, wipe it off, stick it back in fully for a few seconds, pull it out and check it. I'm still not seeing a clear delineation of oil. The back side is even worse.

I'm sure I sound like a newbie here. I was a mechanic 30 years ago. I didn't have to change oil on customer cars a lot but it's not like I'm clueless. :) I've seen the other end of many dipstick tubes as they hang down in the pan area. ;)
 

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sorry, don't mean to insult anyone here. it may sound like yeah, just wipe off the dipstick, but what i meant was more than that. it's almost like make it squeaky clean so that the oil doesn't cling to it. you don't normally get that with just a wipe. it's almost like polishing the metal to make it bead. again, sorry if this sound like newbie stuff...
 

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Wow - Hope that's Not the Case with My Filter .

((The factory filter was WAY too tight. I have never had an issue removing a filter in 35 years. I ended up performing the "puncture with a screwdriver sideways and use that for leverage" method. That was a new experience!

I went with the Purolator Pure One PL14610 filter as I've had good luck with Purolator for many years.
I used Pennzoil Platinum 0W-20 full synthetic. ))

I have had one of those Filters on another Vehicle : I Ended Up Crushing the Dam Thing - with - Huge Water Pump Pliers so it was Hexagon sided to get a Grip on it . . I have seen Your Method also being used also .
No Oil was Applied to the Seal - most likely Installed Dry . .

I Bed in the Brakes Yesterday - still have to do 4000 miles before I start looking at doing Filter have around 500 miles currently .. Tested the Tires to see what those could handle .

Stock Oil seems Very Slippery and is Super Hard to see on Stick !
 

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Some Issues I have seen . - Just wanted to Add - On New Motors I have seen and Heard of Oil Being Run down the Sides from Dumping Oil In to Fast ..

The Gaskets used on these Intakes and around the Stat Housings etc. I have seen some Leak or Go Bad do to Raw Oil being left On Sides of Motor and Cooked there for the Next 15K
Usually it's those Quickie Oil Change Places Garage ..
 

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sorry, don't mean to insult anyone here. it may sound like yeah, just wipe off the dipstick, but what i meant was more than that. it's almost like make it squeaky clean so that the oil doesn't cling to it. you don't normally get that with just a wipe. it's almost like polishing the metal to make it bead. again, sorry if this sound like newbie stuff...
Your point is well taken. :) That might be the ticket. Maybe even use a paper towel? I almost wonder if scoring the end a little bit would also help the oil stay in place long enough to see it more easily.
 
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