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Hi, you guys helped me before, so now more questions?

409 Views 4 Replies 2 Participants Last post by  BlackPeral

Last year you guys helped me quite a bit. Now, after over 6 months, I'm growing dissatisfied.

This is what I currently have in my 2018 exl.

Stock amp
Stock rear mids, tweeters disconnected
My trusty 12" alpine type r in it's old sealed box, like it very much and have used it for years

New things I bought last yeae:
1. Kicker 47kss6704
2. 1 kicker 3.5 that I bought from a guy on here
3. Kicker 46cxa 800. 1t sub amp
4. Lc2i

But now, I have been dissatisfied with the performance of the front components. I don't think I have enough power to get the midbass that they should be able to produce.

So, thinking of upgrading again.

I wish to bypass the factory amp, yet keep all functionality, but need a link to the cheaper bypass harness, not the one with dsp module. The reason I am avoiding dsp for front speakers is, to tell the truth, I don't know how to properly set it up.

Also, I want to keep the kicker sub amp, but am thinking of replacing the lc2i with the smaller version of the epicenter.

Then, I would need a 5 ch amp. A question I have right now is that all the 5 ch amps I see have 4 ch plus one for sub. Can that sub channel be used for the center speaker, gain pretty much set to nil?

Don't get me wrong, the bass I currently have sounds good, but I don't think I've ever set up the lc2i for optimal sound.

Also, I read on here that you need to use all signals as input to the lc2i, not just the factory sub signals that I'm currently using
I don't know if this is true or not, as I've seen that others are doing what I'm doing.

So, I will be looking for the harness, 5 ch amp (reasonably priced), like the Kenwood someone mentioned, and some assistance on how to most effeciently do this. I only work the first 2 weeks of the month, so that gives me 2 weeks to complete the project.

Also, I will need a good deal of advice, on things like the easiest way to run new speaker wire.

I'm sure I will have additional questions, but this is good for now.

Feel free to ask me anything you need to know.

You've helped me so much last year, I hope you can be as accommodating now.

I'm mostly interested in the "how" to do this, but would love to hear what others on a tight budge would do.

Thanks a bunch!
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So I don't have the 10 speaker system that your talking about but I've read what seems like everything about audio upgrades on this and the other forum. My understanding is that you will need the DSP because the signal coming from the factory amp is all actively eq'd. or at the very least I believe you need to tap the signal after the amp. Someone might be able to correct me if I'm wrong. Might have to do with retaining functionality for phone and car sounds (someone else should fact check me on that)

This might be the harness you need, but again some further fact checking is required.

I'm gonna leave this video here as hopefully a resource to help you understand the signal coming from the radio.

Adding an amp is absolutely necessary to bring your speakers to life. I don't think a 5 channel amp would do what your asking of it, as like you've discovered, that 5th channel is almost always for a sub, and if you try to run sub power to your center speaker you will blow that little guy. I'd recommend looking at 6 or 8 channel amps, for cost reasons I'd highly suggest you find one with a DSP in it, you'll want that DSP to get the sound you expect. I'd recommend This JBL 8 Channel Amp , you could use the first 4 channels to run your front components as active (meaning that you don't use a cross over that usually comes with component speakers) 5 and 6 as your rears, 7 as your center speaker and use 8 as a feed for your sub amp. you can use the lc2i you have as a High level Low level adapter to feed your sub amp. This would give you the ability to control everything from one DSP. While configuring a dsp might be scary at first, it's not super complicated and the JBL DSP software seems pretty straight forward. There are some good videos explaining the software here and here. The infinity amp is a 4 channel version, but its practically the same thing as its the same company and same software with different colors. This path would also eliminate the need for an epicenter.

Running speaker wire is a whale of a time, I personally decided to re use the factory wiring, because in the 8 speaker version it was much easier to do so. But from what I can tell the best method to run speaker wires into the door is through the grommet and using zip ties or a wire hanger to fish it through. Patience is the key there, something I lack lol.

To get mid bass I strongly recommend adding some sound deadening also. Proper sound treatment alone will improve the perceived audio quality. Honestly that should be higher on the priority list. You can get by with doing the front doors and the trunk area.

At some point you'll probably ask about speakers, pretty much whatever works in the rears, I would recommend either not doing them, or at the very least reconnect your tweeters in the back. Will at least sound better for your rear passengers.

For the front speakers everyone and their mother seems to recommend morel, the Maximo 6's seem to be the best bang for buck. The tweeter will not fit in the stock tweeter location, so you can either hack up your tweeter sails or look for something like This to better fit them. I ordered a few options for these tweeter sails from ebay and aliexpress, so I don't know whats the best fit till they get off the boat. I'll circle back here when I get them in.

There are other options for front speakers, I had the Focal ASE-165, which is a part of their auditor series, they sounded good, but the tweeter was a tad bit to shrill for me and the mid range was not to my liking. What is to note is that both the Morel's and the Focal's mounting screw locations did not match with the adapter that crutchfield will send, so I just drilled new holes into the plastic of the adapter. But that tweeter did fit better in the factory tweeter sail without having to hack anything up.

I threw a lot at you here so I'm happy to answer any questions or explain further to the best of my ability.
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Hi and thanks for this reply.
I looked at this amp, and combined with my sub amp, it should work great.

In your opinion, how does the dsp stand up to the axxesss harness w/dsp, or do I still need that?

I very interested in what you have said.
Hi and thanks for this reply.
I looked at this amp, and combined with my sub amp, it should work great.

In your opinion, how does the dsp stand up to the axxesss harness w/dsp, or do I still need that?

I very interested in what you have said.
Also, I'm gonna keep the speakers I have up front for now, and reconnect the rear tweeters with the stock speakers. I have a set of kicker components in mind for the rear, but want to do all electrical work first.

With your idea, I can use this JBL amp, and my Kicker sub amp, and that's it? That would, in theory, make things very simple.

Please, continue with your suggestions.

Also, do you think 40w is enough per channel? My max on my front kicker components is 75rms?

Sorry for not getting back quicker, I've been rethinking my own project so I didn't have a good answer for you at that time.

In your opinion, how does the dsp stand up to the axxesss harness w/dsp, or do I still need that?
I believe the JBL amp allows for summing, so its likely you wouldn't need the axxess dsp.

Also, do you think 40w is enough per channel? My max on my front kicker components is 75rms?
This is where my opinion has changed , 40w per channel is less then what they get from factory, you likely won't hear an audible difference. (for reference, doubling wattage only gains 3db in perceived loudness. ). and in theory, with a cleaner signal you could turn the volume up on them further anyway. For the price, there isn't much else that will do what that JBL can do, but it's not the best at what it does by any stretch of the imagination.
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