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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2018 Accord Touring (1.5L) with 31K miles and decided to change out all the brake pads. All went as planned with no parts left over! Cleaned the calipers, compressed the piston, applied a small amount of grease on the appropriate places, etc. During a test drive I noticed the car seemed a little sluggish coasting downhill but otherwise no issues. Out of curiosity I touched the rotors/calipers to check the temps. The front seemed normal (whatever that is) but the both rear rotors were very hot. Measured with a temp gun and the rear rotors are consistently about 30-40°F hotter than the front. Has anyone experienced a similar situation? Shouldn't the fronts be warmer because they get more use in the braking action?
 

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Depends on the Type of Driving Your were doing at Time & Air Temp & Road Temp , but anyhow
in Average Suburban to Higher speed City - rears are Bias's . . , Non Vented & Less Mass so will Heat More . .

Now If We could have some Actual Temps on Calipers , then Rotor Hubs , then Rotor say in Middle of Sweep Surface , I'll Follow with Same . .

Just to Compare Data for say Speed , Distance Between checks ( say 30 Mph , with Two Average Stops in City )
Then 45 Mph with 3 Average stops Then 1 Set of ~ 60-65 Mph with Two Higher Rate of Stops ( Back to Back ) , say 65-75% Jamming Down - then Read . /.

All Other Stop Reading - Travel Two Lights between Readings . .
Make sure 15 Miles has been Traveled to Reach Normal Temps every where , Before Testing Begins . .

Dan
Quality Assurance IV
EngTech Tech IV
Tech Support IV
Custom Builder as in Buildings , but Hey I have Built 3 Scoots also . ( Over 150 ~ 495 Hrs in each )
Races Sleds ( 4 Yrs )

Ported Heads , 2 strokes , Intake Systems , Turbo's Porting - 20 Plus Years ..

:);):cool:PS: some Say I have Forgotten more then Most . . have Experienced , so I'll Mention Brake Temperature Testing Paint
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Depends on the Type of Driving Your were doing at Time & Air Temp & Road Temp , but anyhow
in Average Suburban to Higher speed City - rears are Bias's . . , Non Vented & Less Mass so will Heat More . .

Now If We could have some Actual Temps on Calipers , then Rotor Hubs , then Rotor say in Middle of Sweep Surface , I'll Follow with Same . .

Just to Compare Data for say Speed , Distance Between checks ( say 30 Mph , with Two Average Stops in City )
Then 45 Mph with 3 Average stops Then 1 Set of ~ 60-65 Mph with Two Higher Rate of Stops ( Back to Back ) , say 65-75% Jamming Down - then Read . /.

All Other Stop Reading - Travel Two Lights between Readings . .
Make sure 15 Miles has been Traveled to Reach Normal Temps every where , Before Testing Begins . .

Dan
Quality Assurance IV
EngTech Tech IV
Tech Support IV
Custom Builder as in Buildings , but Hey I have Built 3 Scoots also . ( Over 150 ~ 495 Hrs in each )
Races Sleds ( 4 Yrs )

Ported Heads , 2 strokes , Intake Systems , Turbo's Porting - 20 Plus Years ..

:);):cool:PS: some Say I have Forgotten more then Most . . have Experienced , so I'll Mention Brake Temperature Testing Paint
Okay, I think I might be getting closer to a solution. The solution is - directional arrows. When I originally installed the pads, I assumed the arrows were intended to be pointing towards the front of the car. Actually, seems that the arrow is supposed to point in the direction of rotation of the brake disc? If not, the pad contacts the rotor at a slight angle. I think this is why my pads are contacting the rotor because enough of the pad is contacting the rotor when it should not be. Thoughts?
 

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the rear brakes are used more while driving due to ABS/traction control. that seems normal. you would know theres a problem if the rotors were visibly glowing with heat. but it sounds like you did the job right if you lubed up the caliper pins. stuck caliper would be the main culprit.
 
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