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Kicker 10" Comp C in factory deck + spray foaming the rear void + Noico 150mil red foam panels

3121 Views 9 Replies 3 Participants Last post by  Vegashybrid
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First I want to give a shout-out to Jacob Luckey at Kicker. His customer service has been beyond amazing. I really wanted to use all Kicker products for the install because of him, but it wasn't possible.
This past week while on vacation I tore apart the new car and did the speakers and sound deadening (also added my LEDs back to trunk and footwell). I really did not want to loose trunk space and liked the location of the psu300 from my white car. After talking with Jacob, I decided on a 10in Comp C dvc 4ohm, wired to 2 ohm, in the location of the stock 8in location. I used my KeyLoc DSP from the last car and a jd250 JL audio amp. Installed it under passenger seat with some commercial grade Velcro. Unfortunately Kicker no longer makes a 250w amp and was unable to get them because they are discontinued. The front doors I replaced with kicker ks series speakers. The rear 6.5 in I replaced with Fosgate R1675X2, leaving the rear tweets alone because the rears are mostly fill and just wanted something better than the horrible factory speaker. I will say that if your doing this you should really have a die grinder. I did this on vacation as mentioned and didn't have one so used some aviation shears and cleaned it up with files and a grinding bit. I did need to cut off one of the mounts on the plastic deck cover by the stock sub. I also need to take the plastic deck off again and put some foam or something around the outer edges and something by the taillight area because it rattles and hits the glass sometimes. Still tuning the amp and DSP settings a little bit but sounds much better.

I also did all four doors and the entire trunk area, including the lid with Kilmat butyl panels and Noico red 150mil foam. The white car I only did the Noico butyl 80mil. This time I used the Kilmat 50mil on the rear speaker deck and the doors, and 80mil everywhere else. First off I like the Kilmat much better than the Noico for several reasons. The 80mil is already precut into single panels, the Noico and the 50mil Kilmat are two panels attached together. The single panels are easier to work with saving alot of time cutting. The Kilmat is also easier to work with than the Noico butyl. It adheres mich easier. What I'm more impressed with is the difference the Noico foam made. I did not use it last time and it made a big difference in noise reduction on top of the butyl. Now there are two big voids where the rear wheel wells are. I covered it with butyl but the foam panels don't adhere to curves and shapes very well. I had the idea to use expanding spray foam in those areas and it worked amazingly. Three cans of Locktite gap and crack per side made it extremely quiet in that area. I forgot to take pics of the Noico foam but it just looks like gray foam over the silver panels.
Enjoy!
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Nice work man!!! Looks good.
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Extensive! That thing must sound like a rolling amphitheater now!

You’re obviously on expert mode when it comes to sound deadening, but for the guys who want to keep it as basic, what area would you say helps the most with keeping out road noise?

Some other threads talk about the bare wheel wells, and it sounds like spray foam worked best there. What else would you recommend?

I was hoping to see you mounting a water-meth tank back there too, but guess we’ll keep waiting!
Extensive! That thing must sound like a rolling amphitheater now!

You’re obviously on expert mode when it comes to sound deadening, but for the guys who want to keep it as basic, what area would you say helps the most with keeping out road noise?

Some other threads talk about the bare wheel wells, and it sounds like spray foam worked best there. What else would you recommend?

I was hoping to see you mounting a water-meth tank back there too, but guess we’ll keep waiting!
It was quiet before, now it's very quiet. The system sounds way better now. I may still do the center channel. The deck rattles have slowed me from fine tuning the lpf.
If I had to say just do one area def the doors. They are the easiest to do/take apart. I would leave the vapor barrier there and just cut the lower portion of the glue away enough where you can sort of flap it up and work in the door area. I like how it keeps the area sperated and wires tucked in and clean. Def do both the foam and butyl panels.
As far as the rear, next to the doors, is the worst offender. I always have at least one rear seat down usually both, so i actually started there on my white car. The wheel wells back there are this massive void. Spray foam was the easiest thing I could think of to fill that area efficiently. The hardest part was cutting away the cardboard when it was dry. It took a couple days to fully dry inside because I used three cans per side(as I cut away some that was dry on the outside some would ooze out of the center lol) but it took almost no time to empty three cans in there and continue on with other things as it dried. I still used butyl in there but it would be harder to get the foam panels in there well. Plus there is still this massive void left there with just the panels. Just don't forget your gloves when working with the foam. I still need to take it apart again and hot glue the sub and fix those rattle areas but haven't had the time or energy lately. After doing my rsb, I'm taking a car break for a min.
Lol I wish I could see a big benefit with a wm system on the hybrid, I would install that in a sec if got me 20-30hp.
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You, sir, are a champion.

I have near zero experience with sound deadening, but I’ll learn up and process your post before digging into the doors first. My last car’s vapor barrier failed and let rain water spill over onto my carpet years ago, so I wouldn’t mind taking a look at these early on regardless.
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Lmk if you need help.
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Did the Kicker CS 3.5 center channel today. So much better. There was a massive gap in sound coming from the front area of the car. Between that and the factory sub that seemingly sucked bass out of the music, I really think some of these stock speakers are simply out of phase or something. It also has a nice amount more volume now. As others have stated you shouldn't underestimate the amount of sound produced by the center channel.

I also added a couple cans of spray foam to the trunk area, especially the part closest to the window. Even after getting as much butyl and foam panels where I could, there was still rattling coming from those areas.

Next is another layer of buytl and a layer of 315ml foam panels on the rear deck and hot gluing down the speaker rings. I severely underestimated the amount of vibrations still coming from the deck even after one layer of buytl.

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Finally tore the back deck apart again today. I added some 315 mm foam in some areas, applied felt tape to the back of the speaker rings, and foam to the rim of the rear 6.5". Also applied some sound deadening to the edge of the shelf at the 90 deg where the rest seats clip in. No more vibrations yay. I'm looking into a custom box to mount under the rear deck. Due to it being a free air, it's just not producing that thump, and some sounds are not being replicated properly. Unfortunately that's beyond my fabrication abilities and I really really hate working with fiberglass. But for now all the buzzing and vibrating seems to be gone.
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And finally I did the floor and firewall this week, mostly concentrate on the center tunnel. Had leftovers from the trunk and wanted to minimize the noise from my center brace. Mad a big difference in road noise. Car is very quiet now.
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