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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Any of you guys that have a custom tune with Ktuner, what kinds of K. COUNTS do record under heavy acceleration? I was on the Ktuner forums and KTuner says the K. COUNTS are irrelevant, Incase I'm getting a extremely high number. ( I get around 5 to 15 if I'm in sport, with heavy acceration. And it seems to happen only when the engine is up shifting)

My K.con usually stays at .49 - .52 and the K. Count sits around 0 to 2 when I drive normal. It Goes up to .58 -.62 under aggressive driving.

Will a custom tune improve the K. Count?

I plan on getting a custom tune but I'm waiting on a down pipe first.
 

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They are unless they are frequent enough that they are causing and issue, and at that point car is probably misfiring like crazy anyways because it will probably compensate by dumping more fuel as not to go lean. There are many factors that will be considered when doing a custom tune, not just knock. Not sure if the stock components can handle the overall power increase but I would highly recommend a water meth system, especially before/if your doing a custom tune. If your looking for ultimate power always, and maximizing the system, there is no beating them on a forced induction engine. Snow and Devils Own both make good products. Make sure you get an anti-siphon valve no matter the system. D.O has one thats mechanical not electric splices inline with the supply line to the engine. Cheers
 

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With a custom tune and higher quality fuel (E 25 -35), my knock ctrl is steady .49 even pushed to 140...
Thats not a higher quality fuel its just a cheaper higher octane fuel because it has more ethanol. It actually has less energy per unit than normal fuel so you will get less mileage but it pollutes less overall being renewable ect. So its technically a inferior product comparatively. And yes before you try starting I have experience with this product. I was in the fuel/auto repair business for 25 years (and have tuned countless VW/Audis) so have some idea what im talking about.
A w/m kit will accomplish all that and way more. His octane will be higher and have less knock because of the higher octane and cooler iat's.
 

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Good for you Jack! Experience with my own vehicle tells me otherwise. Get a hobby boomer. Smh.
You mean experience with your sprint booster hahahah? So your car seems to defy the laws of physics. Interesting.
Your confusing less knock with higher quality and the two are not mutually exclusive. Btw my hobby is racing and tuning German cars for almost two decades so. Boomer means experience which you are obviously lacking. Maybe you should be paying more attention you will learn something.

Edit: Just fyi your so intent on getting the fastest you should be especially interested in what im saying in this thread and asking me questions about w/m systems not trying to act like a big shot. But meh what do I know only installed and tuned for a couple days 5-6 systems so.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
You mean experience with your sprint booster hahahah? So your car seems to defy the laws of physics. Interesting.
Your confusing less knock with higher quality and the two are not mutually exclusive. Btw my hobby is racing and tuning German cars for almost two decades so. Boomer means experience which you are obviously lacking. Maybe you should be paying more attention you will learn something.

Edit: Just fyi your so intent on getting the fastest you should be especially interested in what im saying in this thread and asking me questions about w/m systems not trying to act like a big shot. But meh what do I know only installed and tuned for a couple days 5-6 systems so.
I appreciate your expertise. I did some research on the water/meth kits. I think I'm going to look into getting one. Mostly for the cleaning properties. Any performance is a bonus.
 

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I have a vid on youtube getting my car tuned at IMW Motorworks by Derek Robinson. I recorded audible knock which was a major issue solely due to poor fuel quality. Once we increased the octane with E-35ish, both power and knock was 100% better.
Really higher octane created more power and reduced knock? Who woulda thunk it. So because you have a YT vid of someone else tuning your car, you now have his knowledge? Again your confusing higher octane with fuel quality and the two are completely different. Getting a bad batch of fuel and or tuning to the max that octane can handle is also something completely different, dont care who is tuning it. Of course its going to knock if you keep increasing the boost, advancing the timing ect. With that thought process you could theoretically always keep running into that wall with any octane fuel until you raise it(providing everything remains constant and the turbo can put out more boost, injectors more fuel ect) . Let me break this down for you as well. Raising octane simple allows the fuel to burn longer, ie a more complete burn of the oxygen and fuel, less knock. Its more resistant to pre-detonation and therefore also lowers intake temps. Knock is simply having the wrong amount of af ratio that its not full igniting. SO anyone can tune to the point it knocks. The problem with that is if your tuned for a minimum octane like that, you always have to have that. So if you travel somewhere without ethanol fuels (here its E85) then your in trouble. Your also lowering your mpg the higher the ethanol mix. You will always hit some sort of limiting factor. That being said ethanol is cheaper than 100 octane fuel, E85 is around 103 iirc but, you need the kit to run it full time otherwise you will burn out the seals in the fuel system.

I appreciate your expertise. I did some research on the water/meth kits. I think I'm going to look into getting one. Mostly for the cleaning properties. Any performance is a bonus.
Anytime. I used my washer tank as to not have a separate one in the trunk and run extra plumbing. Not sure if there is enough room under the hood of a 2.0t to fit the pump somewhere, even with a custom bracket, as I have not done any work on one, but a trunk mount tank/pump combo might work best for you or the engine compartment. The advantage of the wiper res is that when your running low, your warning indicator will flash on the dash, leaving one less thing to wire. Also for that matter not sure how big that tank was but in the VW/Audis they were generous. The Snow kit came with a tap for the ww res. If im correct with a tune you should be running somewhere around 25psi or so based on some of the hp numbers I have seen on here(again not too familiar with everything on this engine, ie turbo flow but have tons of experience with 2.0l turbo engines). Any kit needs the anti siphon valve. The mechanical one is cheaper and needs no wires. The maf based systems are way more complex to setup compared to the boost based ones but are more efficient and will waste less. Probably start somewhere around 10-11 psi with stock turbo Either way I would setup a boost gauge and a place for the activation light to be visible. This way you can tell when its on and back off if you want to drive around the system and save mix as well. Start somewhere around 300ml nozzle or so. You can get pails of VPM1 from a local distributor and mix your own compared to the premix from the manufacturers as its way more cost effective. Its 99% pure the other part being lubricants, so when they say well our prebottled stuff has lubricants ect, so will your mix. They are more than likely using vp as their base anyways. Use distilled water or a really go ro system. If you use the ww res and it has a an electrode type level sensor vs a float, your going to need to add a couple drops of food dye or something for the electrode to be able to read the fluid, otherwise your tank will be full and still trip the indicator saying its low or empty. You really want this because you do not want to run the pump dry and burn it up. Being able to drive around it and tell when its running low is key imo.

Now in order to take full advantage your doing to need a tune. I used to run the race or 100octane file daily with this no problems. Now the tuner actually fined tuned development of that Race file on my car for their product line for everyone else after a bunch of logs and that system, but it was still basically an off the shelf 100 octane file. In all reality there is more room in it than that because your overall octane when spraying is going to be around 105 or so. On top of that your going to see sub-ambient iats, which helps on so many levels, somewhere around -30deg C. Plus your getting the bonus of steam cleaning your engine parts. As I started to mention above, you could tune to the max but I would not recommend it. Leave some headroom tune to about 102 octane or so will provide significant hp and torque gains (just the 100octane file i had did), leaving something on the table in case your pump fails ect. Your stock ecu is smart and will adapt to a certain degree providing the tuner leaves the adaptation channels open, which any good tuner will do. Because of this you will still see nice gains without a tune once the ecu learns and adapts. Your tuner should handle all of this for you if they are doing custom. If your doing logs yourself, you will look for the point where your not going to see anymore gains like, iats stop dropping, timing does cant be advanced further, a/f ratio, ect when the nozzle size increases, but again tuner should be looking at those things when working on your maps. Finally if you do not have ability to switch program on the fly, carry an extra tank of mix with you if feasible. If not and you run out, turn the system off and revert to normal program.
LMK if you have anymore questions ill try to answer them. Ill try to help you with logs best I can but never done them on Honda before. All in all basically same thing just different channels and program but ultimately same data. Think I touched on everything but probably forgot something.

Edit: Yup forgot something. Your tuner might also have to limit torque down low with this. Im not sure the limit of the transmission or the rods on this engine but i know the CTR had its rods and internals strengthened. Torque down low especially bends rods, and in general breaks things. These smaller turbos spool instantly giving almost immediate torque. Food for thought when talking to tuner if your looking for longevity.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
What would you rate the difficulty level on installing one if these WM systems yourself. I'm not a expert on cars, I can do basic things like change my brakes. Spark plugs, and radiator.
 

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If you can do that this should be fairly simple, especially with the boost based sender kits. The wiring is pretty basic on them. Power, ground, and a boost signal/vacuum line. If you get a boost gauge as I suggested, you could get a boost tap to install that will give you lines or a line for both. Something like this (could not find one for Accord from quick google these are for VW) so you get the idea. If the diameter is the same as the Accord no reason why this wont fit/work.

If you are going to use a mechanical boost gauge i would get a single tap and splice in a Y at the end for the gauge and sender unit. If you go electric gauge you can use a single line for each. Reason being if your using a mech gauge sometimes the just get too much air and cause a buzzing sound. Limiting it removes it and makes the gauge smoother. It does not need that much to gauge the pressure. Most the stuff will easily run through the grommet above the gas pedal right into the engine compartment. If your running the tank in the trunk I would run the supply line under the car to the engine bay. Once you remove the liner in the trunk just tap a hole there. The area around the spare is pretty thin. The fittings are push to lock just make sure they are fully seated. And dont mess with the pump pressure as you may read on some places just adjust by nozzle size. Last i checked DO and Snow use same size nozzles and have slightly different sizes from each other. The pump may fit in the front right behind or around the fog light area cover.

Edit: Forgot about the logs. Your going to want to do them in a single gear. On a six gear transmission we would use 3rd. I would say maybe 4th or 5th with the 10 speed not sure the gearing. You want a mid gear that puts the car under the highest load from usually around 2k rpm to redline, in the same gear(somewhere from 30-80mph roughly so be safe). Dont let the car up or downshift. So if the transmission has a gear kickdown at the bottom, make sure you dont just floor it so it kicks down. The speed of the run is less important then seeing the car under load and how its reacting to the current parameters.
 

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I would rate it 3 - 4. ONLY because it’s dealing with fuel. But there are some really good youtube vids that will help!
Dude what are you talking about??????? That kit has absolutely nothing to do with what we are talking about, and this proves, yet again, you have absolutely no idea what your talking about. There is no need whatsoever to change to a flex fuel kit for this or even touch the injectors at all for a w/m system. Just go away already please. Clown shoes!

Edit: i think hes ignoring and cant see my posts me so look like someone else needs to tell him hes not even part of the conversation. I mean op asked about water meth kits and hes talking about flex fuel kits lol.
 

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Lmao, I have you and your goofy ass book of comments on mute. Obviously I was referring to my previous feedback. You’re right, I don’t know about whatever the **** you’re wasting this person’s time with, bc I DIDN’T READ IT. And I don’t need or care too. You seem like a has been boomer hanging out in these forums to feel needed. Giving an obvious novice information to screw his car up.
No you quoted his question about water meth. No one asked you about flex fuel. So who is trying to feel needed? If you didnt read it then you even more have less of a voice in this conversation. You have no idea whats going on or if it would mess up his car at all. Your not providing anything useful to this forum except making threats and calling people names. You keep calling me boomer but from looks of it your what mid late thirties? We are the same age give or take a few years rofl. Its ok ignore all you want, wont last long here like that. Long story short once he does this and shows great improvements, ill take that $1000 you keep waving around and bet you pull the trigger on a kit in half a second if you had half a clue.
 

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Warning: If this thread is to remain open the abusive/derogatory comments need to stop. For those using this type of language in other threads it needs to stop it in those also. Your opinion or ideas may differ but they can be done in a respectful way w/o all the name calling. Along w/threads being locked those continuing these actions put your ability to post/belong to this forum in jeopardy.
 

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Warning: If this thread is to remain open the abusive/derogatory comments need to stop. For those using this type of language in other threads it needs to stop it in those also. Your opinion or ideas may differ but they can be done in a respectful way w/o all the name calling. Along w/threads being locked those continuing these actions put your ability to post/belong to this forum in jeopardy.
The D00d has spoken👍
 
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