Also, this will allow you to spare your factory harness and avoid cutting wires. Still browsing for speakers and a sub, will keep you guys posted!
Metra plug and play dsp/amp bypass for 10 channel system
Huge news! Metra finally released their Amy bypass/dsp interface for the premium sound system accords. This will allow you to turn that digital signal into RCAs for amplifier inputs, and it’s a digital signal processor as well. I plan on picking up this piece rather soon and then running a 6 channel amp (center, FR,FL,RR,RL,SUB). Honestly I have been hesitant on starting my system but now that this piece is released I think it will save a ton of headache and frustration. Let me know your thoughts and if you plan on using it!
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AXDSPX-HN3 | Axxess Integrate
DSP Interface With Amp Bypass Harness - Honda 2016-Up
axxessinterfaces.com
1 - 20 of 43 Posts
Here is a link to his post on the insight forum. Looks like he retained his center channel. This will be interesting, I've got to think through this one a bit more and maybe give metra a call.
Metra Axxess AX DSPX HN3 Amp Bypass
So like many with the Touring trim the “Premium 10 Speaker” system left a lot to be desired for my ears. In an effort to give the illusion of a high end audio system Honda outfits the Premium system with a 10 speaker system that includes front and rear component sets as well as a center channel...
www.insightcentral.net
Alright - time for an update - I've finally begun working on putting my system in. I'll start with a parts list.
Front Componets - Morel Tempo Ultra
Rear Componets - Morel Maximo Ultra
Amp - Kenwood XR 901.5
DSP - Metra Axxess Highlighted above.
Sub - Kicker L7t in a Factory Wedge box. 2Ohm
Install Things:
Dremel
ferrules
custom speaker brackets
ABS plastic for amp rack
Heat shrink
crutchfield amp wiring kit
Stinger 4000 2channel RCA (6)
Tesa Tape
Sonic Electronix 16 gauge wiring
Sonic 12 gauge wiring (sub)
4 inch zip ties
Harbor Freight hardware
Harbor Freight Threaded rivet tool
NVX Sound deadening
nvx sound deadening roller
stinger fast rings
ill update this list as I remeber all the other things
First things first - On the Five Star car audio channel there's a video of them installing tempo ultras in the front door of the new accord and they needed custom speaker brackets because the off the shelf ones were not deep enough - so, I went to a local shop and get custom brackets made. DO NOT DO THIS. The American international off the shelf brackets will fit tempo ultras and still clear the door, I already had custom brackets made before I took the door off, so I would just check whatever speakers you are running first. The AI brackets are 10$ on amazon. Custom brackets cost me 40$.
Also - I would really suggest coaxials for the rear. For me, I've owned the car for nearly a year, and don't think anyone has ever sat back there. I won the maximos from 5 star 12 days of xmas which is the only reason I'll be installing them.
Going with a Dean and Fernando style amp rack under the seat. Pics attached. I will be running signal wire directly up the center console to the factory amp location. For the power wire, I plan to go from the amp under the passenger seat, across under the driver seat, and up the driver side foot rail. I plan to drill through the stamped metal where the clutch pedal mounts on manual models.
Amp Rack, I would say just triple/quadruple check your measurement here. It took a few times to get the amp and crossovers mounted in a way that clears the seat. On the touring, and I assume exl and above, having a power passenger seat takes up some room compared to the sport,LX models with manual articulation. I could only fit the passive crossovers for the front components on the amp rack, no idea where I will put the crossovers for the rear components yet.
Front doors are pretty smooth for the mid base - I've only test fitted, so I haven't done full sound dampening yet and my fast rings should come in the mail over the next couple days. For the tweeters, the Morel is definitely bigger, so a Dremel is your best friend. Just be careful not to take out too much material, because its nearly impossible to add back. also, the plastic welds I just replaced with the screws that came in the box. I did come through the front of the tweeter pod just a bit, so I'd suggest shorter screws and you should be good.
That's it so far. Feel free to reach out with questions, and I've added some pics below.
Also - the tempo ultras on factory power are terrible. I think its a combination of two things. 1) the factory crossover points leave no room for real base and the tweeters start way too high. 2) the tempo ultras have a huge magnet and made of thicker material so the factory power simply isn't enough to these speakers do any good. I wouldn't recommend only a speaker upgrade unless you are going with something extremely efficient, but you still probably won't get too much bass out of them. Just my thoughts.
I plan on finishing everything by Saturday hopefully. Let me know if you guys have any questions.
Thanks!
Front Componets - Morel Tempo Ultra
Rear Componets - Morel Maximo Ultra
Amp - Kenwood XR 901.5
DSP - Metra Axxess Highlighted above.
Sub - Kicker L7t in a Factory Wedge box. 2Ohm
Install Things:
Dremel
ferrules
custom speaker brackets
ABS plastic for amp rack
Heat shrink
crutchfield amp wiring kit
Stinger 4000 2channel RCA (6)
Tesa Tape
Sonic Electronix 16 gauge wiring
Sonic 12 gauge wiring (sub)
4 inch zip ties
Harbor Freight hardware
Harbor Freight Threaded rivet tool
NVX Sound deadening
nvx sound deadening roller
stinger fast rings
ill update this list as I remeber all the other things
First things first - On the Five Star car audio channel there's a video of them installing tempo ultras in the front door of the new accord and they needed custom speaker brackets because the off the shelf ones were not deep enough - so, I went to a local shop and get custom brackets made. DO NOT DO THIS. The American international off the shelf brackets will fit tempo ultras and still clear the door, I already had custom brackets made before I took the door off, so I would just check whatever speakers you are running first. The AI brackets are 10$ on amazon. Custom brackets cost me 40$.
Also - I would really suggest coaxials for the rear. For me, I've owned the car for nearly a year, and don't think anyone has ever sat back there. I won the maximos from 5 star 12 days of xmas which is the only reason I'll be installing them.
Going with a Dean and Fernando style amp rack under the seat. Pics attached. I will be running signal wire directly up the center console to the factory amp location. For the power wire, I plan to go from the amp under the passenger seat, across under the driver seat, and up the driver side foot rail. I plan to drill through the stamped metal where the clutch pedal mounts on manual models.
Amp Rack, I would say just triple/quadruple check your measurement here. It took a few times to get the amp and crossovers mounted in a way that clears the seat. On the touring, and I assume exl and above, having a power passenger seat takes up some room compared to the sport,LX models with manual articulation. I could only fit the passive crossovers for the front components on the amp rack, no idea where I will put the crossovers for the rear components yet.
Front doors are pretty smooth for the mid base - I've only test fitted, so I haven't done full sound dampening yet and my fast rings should come in the mail over the next couple days. For the tweeters, the Morel is definitely bigger, so a Dremel is your best friend. Just be careful not to take out too much material, because its nearly impossible to add back. also, the plastic welds I just replaced with the screws that came in the box. I did come through the front of the tweeter pod just a bit, so I'd suggest shorter screws and you should be good.
That's it so far. Feel free to reach out with questions, and I've added some pics below.
Also - the tempo ultras on factory power are terrible. I think its a combination of two things. 1) the factory crossover points leave no room for real base and the tweeters start way too high. 2) the tempo ultras have a huge magnet and made of thicker material so the factory power simply isn't enough to these speakers do any good. I wouldn't recommend only a speaker upgrade unless you are going with something extremely efficient, but you still probably won't get too much bass out of them. Just my thoughts.
I plan on finishing everything by Saturday hopefully. Let me know if you guys have any questions.
Thanks!
Attachments
Ok so first wanted to shot out @tommypenguin for his install video on youtube. Definitely followed in his footsteps on this build. Also the guys at 5 star have an accord series that came in great help even though it was on a sport and not a touring.
Overall the install was quite a beast, took 2.5 days and a few days of troubleshooting things (will mention later) so was it worth it??? HEII YES! Not only does this get pretty loud, but the detail of audio and is so much more apparent, plus sound deadening makes a world of difference in this car. Alot of the build time was honestly spent sound deadening and everything besides the floor has NVX dampening material on it.
As for the Axxess DSPX - it just does what its supposed to do. I have not worked the equalizer yet, but with everything flat, and some quick time alignment, this thing sounds amazing. My only reference is my girlfriend's RX350 with mark Levinson and it blows that out of the water. So yes - im happy. I use Car Play 90% of the time so it re routes all the sound of navigation/siri/phone calls to the front doors. I got rid of the center channel.
Also, please sound dampen your car, it really makes the car so much more enjoyable and honestly quieter than the brand new Lexus I mentioned before. I did the front/rear doors (behind the vapor barrier) under the rear seat, top, and bottom of the rear deck, and a good amount of the trunk/spare tire area. Honestly, the car is almost too quiet. My GF describes it as really good sound-canceling headphones on an airplane - you know there's noise, but you can't hear it where you are.
I set gains with a multimeter, so I honestly may have left some juice on the table vs an oscilloscope, but I didn't want to buy one so it is what it is. I would say that 60 watts/channel is just enough, but honestly, I do want a bigger amp, but there aren't many 5 channels that can both fit under the passenger seat and also provide more juice. I really didn't want to lose any trunk space because I do use my trunk for work sometimes.
Another gripe - the Kicker L7T factory 10in box has a ton of great bass "sound" but lacks the airspace to really get good bass "feel" in the back of your seat.
Below are some random pics I took along the way. Let me know if you have any other questions!
Overall the install was quite a beast, took 2.5 days and a few days of troubleshooting things (will mention later) so was it worth it??? HEII YES! Not only does this get pretty loud, but the detail of audio and is so much more apparent, plus sound deadening makes a world of difference in this car. Alot of the build time was honestly spent sound deadening and everything besides the floor has NVX dampening material on it.
As for the Axxess DSPX - it just does what its supposed to do. I have not worked the equalizer yet, but with everything flat, and some quick time alignment, this thing sounds amazing. My only reference is my girlfriend's RX350 with mark Levinson and it blows that out of the water. So yes - im happy. I use Car Play 90% of the time so it re routes all the sound of navigation/siri/phone calls to the front doors. I got rid of the center channel.
Also, please sound dampen your car, it really makes the car so much more enjoyable and honestly quieter than the brand new Lexus I mentioned before. I did the front/rear doors (behind the vapor barrier) under the rear seat, top, and bottom of the rear deck, and a good amount of the trunk/spare tire area. Honestly, the car is almost too quiet. My GF describes it as really good sound-canceling headphones on an airplane - you know there's noise, but you can't hear it where you are.
I set gains with a multimeter, so I honestly may have left some juice on the table vs an oscilloscope, but I didn't want to buy one so it is what it is. I would say that 60 watts/channel is just enough, but honestly, I do want a bigger amp, but there aren't many 5 channels that can both fit under the passenger seat and also provide more juice. I really didn't want to lose any trunk space because I do use my trunk for work sometimes.
Another gripe - the Kicker L7T factory 10in box has a ton of great bass "sound" but lacks the airspace to really get good bass "feel" in the back of your seat.
Below are some random pics I took along the way. Let me know if you have any other questions!
Attachments
1 - 20 of 43 Posts
