Tranny was happy up until the stopping point. I wanted more, lol. But as you’ll hear in my new vid, my tuner had some concerns based on input/output shaft noise. I’m gonna install a trans cooler then possibly revisit. But truthfully, Im extremely happy where I’m at. Useable power throughout the power band.
* The motor however, was solid as a rock! And I was told my turbo has about 80 more hp left before maxxing out😳.
Did you ask or your tuner mention how all these upgrades/power will impact the daily driver ability of your car? It has been my experience when vehicles get past a point of high performance upgrades it will impact their ability to be daily driver.
The shift points are a little more aggressive, but overall the ride is smooth and really only wakes up when you punch it. In sport mode it’s really aggressive, but I normally only use sport at the track, or if Im making videos.
The 10AT actually has a transmission cooler built into it.
I think once you pass 400HP and 400 TQ the transmission will start to weaken. At the HP a lot of guys running now with bigger turbos, I would be reaching out to performance transmission shops. They can do it for Audi’s and Mustangs no reason the Accord can’t be done.
That being said I’d have your tuner make a street tune and a track tune. That way your daily abilities don’t get screwed up.
Once I hit 350WHP, I’m going to call it quits for performance mods. Not trying to break records or my car lol.
Good luck 👍
Ill be piggy backing the external cooler off the stock one. Hopefully this will add a sufficient layer of protection. Also, I’ll be doing my trans drain/fill service at closer intervals - evey 10k. If after all that it still breaks, I’ll rebuild or replace it 🤷🏾♂️
zero issues. I upgraded my LPFP with an e85 compatible DW300c. Also I have a 93 tune, e30ish tune, and e30+meth tune (on an arming switch) that I can swap between using Ktuner Tunerview.
@MAKO_X Can you share how the trans cooler will be hooked up because I know the 10AT is not the same as a traditional car with the ATF going to the radiator and then piggybacking off that with a cooler and back to the trans. I know it has a warmer with 2 ports that brings the AT up to temp from cold starts faster using coolant and also is used to cool the ATF. Not to sure about this but would the layout be eliminating the two lines and capping both ends off going in and out of the engines coolant system and just starting from the OUT of the warmer to the cooler and back to the IN of the warmer? Or keep the CS by adding it before the In of the warmer.
Ex. of eliminating the CS
Warmer Out➡Cooler In➡Cooler Out➡Warmer In
Ex. of keeping the CS
Warmer Out➡Coolant System In➡Coolant Out➡Cooler In➡Cooler Out➡Warmer In
The goal is to test all available options. The video floating around (attached) that shows a 10 speed at break down, and from the looks of it, one of the port “may” be trans fluid. Thats what Im banking on. Tomorrow’s the big day, so I’ll definitely have more feedback.
I found this on the civic forum looks like the civic cvt trans warmer uses coolant maybe it will be the same for the accord? I emailed prl about making one for the accord and they told me that it’s a unnecessary upgrade but I don’t feel like it is so I reached out to my guy at MAP to see if he would be willing to make me one personally still waiting for a response back.
Maintaining proper fluid temperature is essential to extending and preserving the life your CVT. Our CVT cooler kit includes everything needed to install. The included core is a 16 row stacked plate cooler which is designed to withstand high fluid pressures and significantly reduce transmission...
So far it’s a no go. My plan was to tap into the trans warmer but I got cold feet and backed out. So, I’m gonna buy a used one to test before I go forward.