no start
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Hi. What kind of diagnosis and fix did you get from Honda?
I have a 2018 2.0T Accord 6 speed manual. The prev Thursday night I parked in the driveway as usual. Put the stick in 1st gear and applied the electronic brake, The next morning, no start.
When I opened the door, the car flashed the Honda logo on the main instrument panel, but nothing displayed on the central display, and the start/stop button only pulsed a clear/white lights (is not green, red, etc). I initially thought that the battery was somehow drained (it read 12.3V) so just attempted a trickle charge. When the battery read 13.5 off charge, then I really thought that it would start. No difference.
I went thru a bunch of basic checks that I would do on a less complicated car (eg my old 1999 Accord manual tranny), but that led me nowhere. Since this new Accord is so heavily electronics based with a bunch of sensors (ie is the parking brake on?, is the? clutch pressed?, is the brake pedal on, is the next queued song on the USB stick on the annointed music play list?, etc, etc) I had the car towed into the dealer.
By the way, I still have to learn how to deactivate the electronic parking brake when things are screwed up so that other cars in the garage blocked by the broken down Accord may get out.
I called the Honda dealer today (Monday noon) to see what their diagnosis might be. The service rep said that the tech (who actually knows what he tried) had left no details and wanted to keep the car overnight to see how things shake out tomorrow morning. I distinctly have the impression that the tech was driving in the dark (or maybe going by first principles) as to figuring out what the problem may be.
I apologize for the long story, but it is Covid-19 time, and the brandy is pretty good today.
I have a 2018 2.0T Accord 6 speed manual. The prev Thursday night I parked in the driveway as usual. Put the stick in 1st gear and applied the electronic brake, The next morning, no start.
When I opened the door, the car flashed the Honda logo on the main instrument panel, but nothing displayed on the central display, and the start/stop button only pulsed a clear/white lights (is not green, red, etc). I initially thought that the battery was somehow drained (it read 12.3V) so just attempted a trickle charge. When the battery read 13.5 off charge, then I really thought that it would start. No difference.
I went thru a bunch of basic checks that I would do on a less complicated car (eg my old 1999 Accord manual tranny), but that led me nowhere. Since this new Accord is so heavily electronics based with a bunch of sensors (ie is the parking brake on?, is the? clutch pressed?, is the brake pedal on, is the next queued song on the USB stick on the annointed music play list?, etc, etc) I had the car towed into the dealer.
By the way, I still have to learn how to deactivate the electronic parking brake when things are screwed up so that other cars in the garage blocked by the broken down Accord may get out.
I called the Honda dealer today (Monday noon) to see what their diagnosis might be. The service rep said that the tech (who actually knows what he tried) had left no details and wanted to keep the car overnight to see how things shake out tomorrow morning. I distinctly have the impression that the tech was driving in the dark (or maybe going by first principles) as to figuring out what the problem may be.
I apologize for the long story, but it is Covid-19 time, and the brandy is pretty good today.
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26 Posts
Obvious questions time: Battery fully charged? Sometimes a battery has enough juice to show lights on the instrument panel but not enough could cranking amps (CCA) to turn over the starter.
Any modifications lately?
Manual or automatic transmission?
Have you tried starting it in neutral?
Do the brake lights come on? A faulty stop lamp switch can fool the car into thinking you are not stepping on the brake, which is required to start these Hondas.
Have you checked the fuses - especially the engine compartment fuse box?
Any modifications lately?
Manual or automatic transmission?
Have you tried starting it in neutral?
Do the brake lights come on? A faulty stop lamp switch can fool the car into thinking you are not stepping on the brake, which is required to start these Hondas.
Have you checked the fuses - especially the engine compartment fuse box?
As in my orig: Battery charged; even tried jumpering to another running car, so obviously enough juice; no mods; 6 MT; yes, tried to start in neutral (as that is what I do 99% of the time); checked the microswitches on the clutch and brake pedals (I've had them stick or slip on other cars in the past); brakes lights come on; checked fuses.
I was curious if the OP had any follow up.
I was curious if the OP had any follow up.
Me, too. I phoned the service rep today. He said the tech had done something, but had not filled out any details. The tech also wanted to keep the car overnight to see how it will be tomorrow morning. Sounds like they are trying something out not out of the standard playbook. I hope to hear something positive and logical. Preferably, too, something covered on warranty.
My original thought was that it was a dud battery or insufficient power to pass all system checks before allowing the car to get to the start stage. I think that I was patient and methodical enough, so just have to see.
My original thought was that it was a dud battery or insufficient power to pass all system checks before allowing the car to get to the start stage. I think that I was patient and methodical enough, so just have to see.
The dealer got the car starting by what they say was "resetting and reprogramming" the BCM (battery control module). What that specifically means the service desk clerk could not say. New code(?), new values popped into memory(?)...no idea.
I also asked as to the root cause as to what may have caused the BCM to go astray, but no ideas were offered. I can see some of the problem possibly being related to my use of a trickle charger straight onto the battery terminals like I've always done before on my much less electronics-loaded earlier cars. I've not looked, but maybe there's a particular procedure to follow.
Anyways, the car starts. What the invoice notes do show is that the situation must be monitored and if the problem persists that the BCM will need to be replaced.
The apparent fix still has to be proven in the long term.
As far as the rolling start suggestion...the electric parking brake was engaged (which I have to figure out how to retract by other than the normal means) so that would not have worked. As well, I have my doubts whether the ignition system, fuel system, etc would have even been in any condition to get combustion if a rolling start with a clutch pop would get the engine to fire. My gut feel is no.
No charge, by the way. Even for the tow. All that I had to do was return the courtesy car with the same level of gas as when I took it out, so more than fair.
I also asked as to the root cause as to what may have caused the BCM to go astray, but no ideas were offered. I can see some of the problem possibly being related to my use of a trickle charger straight onto the battery terminals like I've always done before on my much less electronics-loaded earlier cars. I've not looked, but maybe there's a particular procedure to follow.
Anyways, the car starts. What the invoice notes do show is that the situation must be monitored and if the problem persists that the BCM will need to be replaced.
The apparent fix still has to be proven in the long term.
As far as the rolling start suggestion...the electric parking brake was engaged (which I have to figure out how to retract by other than the normal means) so that would not have worked. As well, I have my doubts whether the ignition system, fuel system, etc would have even been in any condition to get combustion if a rolling start with a clutch pop would get the engine to fire. My gut feel is no.
No charge, by the way. Even for the tow. All that I had to do was return the courtesy car with the same level of gas as when I took it out, so more than fair.
Gotcha. I have the HAH, so I haven’t dealt with a manual in this car. I did have to look up how to take the car out of park on the eCVT.... there’s a toggle on the transmission housing you have to manually turn. Came up in conversation with a friend when his Pilot battery died and he needed to roll it out of the way but couldn’t get it out of park.
Only thing I’ve found online re: turning off the electric parking brake is a comment on a civic forum where someone said the page in the manual talking about turning off the brake referred them to the page on jump starting.
Only thing I’ve found online re: turning off the electric parking brake is a comment on a civic forum where someone said the page in the manual talking about turning off the brake referred them to the page on jump starting.
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BCM is usually an acronym for the Body Control Module. Maybe someone at the dealership got confused. It is the computer that controls everything non-engine or transmission related. Stuff like the door locks, lighting, and - wait for it - push button start functions. They are not inexpensive and usually buried somewhere under the dash near the firewall, so good thing they are doing it for free.
Body control module & push button start. Sure sounds like a leading candidate. When i took the car in, I was thinking that the start button switch might have been caput. Probably a cheap switch but loads of shop time to replace the thing.
I know my headlights worked. I think I tried the interior lights beside the mirror, but can't swear to that. I think that I opened a window, but equally as fuzzy minded about that, too.
I've been getting a few hits on the web about "battery control module" and side effects, so that interpretation for BCM still also sounds possible.
Which just means I'll have to suspect both. As long as I only have to worry about stuff and there's no failure, things are good.
I know my headlights worked. I think I tried the interior lights beside the mirror, but can't swear to that. I think that I opened a window, but equally as fuzzy minded about that, too.
I've been getting a few hits on the web about "battery control module" and side effects, so that interpretation for BCM still also sounds possible.
Which just means I'll have to suspect both. As long as I only have to worry about stuff and there's no failure, things are good.
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26 Posts
The switch is easy to replace. I removed it to run the wiring to install the rear seat USB chargers The panel pops off and the wiring harness connector is easily unhooked. I’ll Google the battery control unit. Interesting to learn something new about our cars.
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i have a 2018 Honda Accord Sport 2.0 MANUAL that recently started acting up like it wont start unless i Roll start it but from time to time it would start right up.
can someone please help i already got a brand new Battery but that makes no difference. Thank You
can someone please help i already got a brand new Battery but that makes no difference. Thank You
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