Old advice needed...can't find old posts...Have a 2018 Accord EX-L. Thinking of bypassing stock amp and need help...

ItsonlyAHonda said:

I replied to the other post you put up in a different thread. I'll quote it.

Click to expand...

Hello and thanks for replying.

The product you linked to is not the one I remember seeing. You linked to a complete dsp, as well as harness.
What I remember is a very low cost single harness, no black boxes. Can you help me out?

Also, I want to expand this thread and ask about the lc2i that I use.

Yes, something with epicenter would be better, but, this "works" for me, but, I have never been able to set it up correctly, imo. And, it's not for lack of trying..

I followed the instructions at first and went thru the process of trying to get the led to blink on. I was unable to make this happen. From what I understand then, that would mean that the signal being output is not distorted. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

Also, I had read about there being a "delay" in accubass kicking in. I did not want that, so I set it up so it is always on, with the bass knob next to the front seat. In your opinions, is this a good thing or a bad thing.
I would like the optimal setting for the lc2i, but am not quite sure how to get it.

Thanks to all who help out...

I would like to ask some hypothetical questions.

The situation is this:

Basically, I am not impressed with how my system sounds. Also, I cannot in any way go to an install shop and spend $2K+ to do a really decent SQ system.

So, I am really considering the amp bypass.

Here are some of my questions:

1. The bypass/dsp unit. I have never used or installed or tuned a dsp. Is this something difficult to do?
2. Extreme lack of midbass. I have heard that the speakers I have are not really good at producing midbass. I was advised to go with Hertz. Also, I was advised to definitely put components in the rear. I found a pair of Hertz 6.75" for up front, cost ~$350, and a pair of Hertz 6" components for the rear (~$200). I would like your advice on this.
3. 5 channel amps. Since I have a sub amp I wish to keep using, I was thinking of getting the Epicenter micro, and ditching the lc2i since I won't need a loc anyway. Any advice on this?

Also, I would kinda like to do this in stages. What would you guys do if doing what I am proposing?

And, as far as a dsp goes, I am under the impression that it's function is to time delay the signals such that the driver gets the best sound. I am not really interested in this. I did find a dealer that still sells the old harness.

I can definitely do the install/wiring, etc, but I'm not in my 20's anymore, and this will take time. I've poured over YouTube videos most of the day, and the best ones I found were done by Five Star Car Stereo.

Now, those guys are seemingly pro's and perfectionists. I really don't want to totally gut the interior at one time and do the complete install. That is why I'm asking you guys that if you were to do this in stages, how would you proceed? Actually, it's not that I don't want to, I simply can't. (age, health issues, etc).

You guys always give great advice. If I don't know how to even set a dsp up, nor have ever heard one done properly

Lastly, the center channel. I am still a bit unsure how to go about this. I reviewed previous posts, and someone had suggested an inexpensive 2 ch amp just for the center. If I went that route, which I don't want to, I would have 3 amps and the epicenter. I really don't want that much equipment and the space it depletes from the trunk. Is it possible to use a 5 channel amp, use the 4 lower power channels for the components, and the sub channel, gain way down, as well as frequency, to run the center channel? How did some of you manage doing the center channel?

Well, about time for bed, but will be up for a little while yet.

I am open to whatever you guys have to suggest, and appreciate the help.

Thanks.

Pittviper said:

. The bypass/dsp unit. I have never used or installed or tuned a dsp. Is this something difficult to do?

Click to expand...

This is a very basic DSP, it's essentially just an amp bypass with features. But will five you the signal needed to do just about what ever you want.

Pittviper said:

Extreme lack of midbass. I have heard that the speakers I have are not really good at producing midbass. I was advised to go with Hertz. Also, I was advised to definitely put components in the rear. I found a pair of Hertz 6.75" for up front, cost ~$350, and a pair of Hertz 6" components for the rear (~$200). I would like your advice on this.
3. 5 channel amps. Since I have a sub amp I wish to keep using, I was thinking of getting the Epicenter micro, and ditching the lc2i since I won't need a loc anyway. Any advice on this?

Click to expand...

Now this is actually install/tune dependant, lack of midbass has many factors and speakers choice is not at the top of the list. Your doors need to be properly sound treated and sealed off. The cavities need to be sealed properly to prevent the rear sounds waves of the midbass from interacting with the front sound waves and canceling each other out. Check this out... these are actually our doors.


An epicenter is not needed, especially if your going to bypass the factory amp. Use that money for something else.

Pittviper said:

That is why I'm asking you guys that if you were to do this in stages, how would you proceed?

Click to expand...

I'd defently bypass that amp, then add one for the speakers you already have. I'd wire up the amp for your speakers first and run speaker wire to where the factory amp is then youll just tap into the the factory wiring . Then when your ready for the bypass everything is in place and you won't be without sound.


That depends on the 5ch amp. Those are meant for subs. So you don't know if it will provide a full range signal. If it can provide the signal I don't see why not.

ItsonlyAHonda said:

This is a very basic DSP, it's essentially just an amp bypass with features. But will five you the signal needed to do just about what ever you want.


Now this is actually install/tune dependant, lack of midbass has many factors and speakers choice is not at the top of the list. Your doors need to be properly sound treated and sealed off. The cavities need to be sealed properly to prevent the rear sounds waves of the midbass from interacting with the front sound waves and canceling each other out. Check this out... these are actually our doors.

2018+ Honda Accord (10th Gen.) : Doors - ResoNix Sound Solutions

For this Tenth Generation 2018 Honda Accord, we did a basic sound system and did...

resonixsoundsolutions.com

An epicenter is not needed, especially if your going to bypass the factory amp. Use that money for something else.


I'd defently bypass that amp, then add one for the speakers you already have. I'd wire up the amp for your speakers first and run speaker wire to where the factory amp is then youll just tap into the the factory wiring . Then when your ready for the bypass everything is in place and you won't be without sound.

2018+ Honda Accord (10th Gen.) : Doors - ResoNix Sound Solutions

For this Tenth Generation 2018 Honda Accord, we did a basic sound system and did...

resonixsoundsolutions.com

That depends on the 5ch amp. Those are meant for subs. So you don't know if it will provide a full range signal. If it can provide the signal I don't see why not.

Click to expand...

Thanks so much for the reply. Now I have additional, more specific questions on the 2 topics you hit on.

1. I was under the impression that the hu was the component responsible for crossing over the sound, as in, also, crossover point, bass roll off, etc. Am I incorrect about this? I watched that directly on YT, but you can't believe everything you watch. From what you're saying, it's the factory amp that is manipulating the signals. Am I correct? This refers to you comment on don' bother with the epicenter.

2. I did seal my front doors, but did not use boom mat things. I used fast rings, and I don't think, due to my lack of installation skills, that I installed them properly. I have a set of boom mats, and from what I've read, you should cut the rear off so that it is open. Will this improve the midbass presence.

3. You referred to tuning. What exactly is the proper way to tune. All I have is the factory sliders for frequency ranges (high, mid, low, sub). How does one properly tune the system?

4. Order of install: You mentioned tap into the factory wiring. Does that bypass kit have a connector with the speaker output wires, or do I definitely have to tap. If so, could you point me to a chart of color codes of the wires/which speakers they go to? I've looked, and cannot find one. Also, which "taps" are the easiest and best to use?

Lastly, you didn't mention in this post about breaking down the install into pieces replacing the components I have. I am assuming that is for another stage. Correct me if I'm wrong.

Thanks so much.

Also, can you recommend an affordable 5 ch amp that does what you discussed? I am not looking to spend a grand on an amp. So, 300-400 max. Also, your comment on if the 5th channel can do that. Supposing I'm looking on Crutchfield or Sonic Electronix, what am I looking for in the description of the amp to know if the amp can do this. This is the first car I eve had with a center channel.

Thanks again!!

1. I was under the impression that the hu was the component responsible for crossing over the sound, as in, also, crossover point, bass roll off, etc. Am I incorrect about this? I watched that directly on YT, but you can't believe everything you watch. From what you're saying, it's the factory amp that is manipulating the signals. Am I correct? This refers to you comment on don' bother with the epicenter.
[/QUOTE]
In the 10ch system like ours, it's the amp that manipulates everything. If you bypass it with the Axxess DSP/amp bypass it eliminates all these issues.

Pittviper said:

2. I did seal my front doors, but did not use boom mat things. I used fast rings, and I don't think, due to my lack of installation skills, that I installed them properly. I have a set of boom mats, and from what I've read, you should cut the rear off so that it is open. Will this improve the midbass presence.

Click to expand...

I was talking bout sealing the door cavities with something solid. Read the article I posted.

Pittviper said:

3. You referred to tuning. What exactly is the proper way to tune. All I have is the factory sliders for frequency ranges (high, mid, low, sub). How does one properly tune the system?

Click to expand...

Tunning is a whole other monster that can not be done with the factory head unit. You said your not interestedin time alightmentand such but thats what you need to get proper sound. I can tell you that our cars room aquistic sucks and to get really good midbass you have to take it too extreams. I had to install a subwoofer in my passenger footwell, beefy midbasses and trunk subs to get it where i wanted. A DSP, calibrated mic, laptop is needed to get things tuned properly. On youtube tunning is referred to as setting gains on your amp, that's not tunning. I'll give you something else to read. I attached a PDF. Later I'll attach some photos of my tune.

Pittviper said:

4. Order of install: You mentioned tap into the factory wiring. Does that bypass kit have a connector with the speaker output wires, or do I definitely have to tap. If so, could you point me to a chart of color codes of the wires/which speakers they go to? I've looked, and cannot find one. Also, which "taps" are the easiest and best to use?

Click to expand...

The axxess amp bypass has all the wiring and instructions needed. You won't have to tap into anything if go that route. That DSP with the kit is basic but it still has tunning capabilities that can still get you a decent sound system.

Pittviper said:

Lastly, you didn't mention in this post about breaking down the install into pieces replacing the components I have. I am assuming that is for another stage. Correct me if I'm wrong.

Click to expand...

I say use the components you already have. If you properly sound treat your doors and attemp a tune on your system I'm sure you'll be happy with the results on the components you already have. Swapping them out and not doing these things will yield similar results. Install and tune are THE most important parts of getting good sound quality in a car sound system.

Pittviper said:

Also, can you recommend an affordable 5 ch amp that does what you discussed? I am not looking to spend a grand on an amp. So, 300-400 max. Also, your comment on if the 5th channel can do that. Supposing I'm looking on Crutchfield or Sonic Electronix, what am I looking for in the description of the amp to know if the amp can do this. This is the first car I eve had with a center channel.

Click to expand...

I've never used a 5ch amp so it's hard for me to recommend one. But that 5th ch needs to have a feature to be able to bypass the crossovers. Like I said they are meant for bass, so most will have a undefeatable low pass filter.

I just looked at some of the options but I can't find one that provides a full range signal for the 5th ch. You could run your sub on the 5th ch and buy a 2ch amp for the centre. That way you only have 2 amps but you won't be re using the amp you already have. It may be more difficult for you to run a centre, I'd consider just skipping it.

I run a 3 way front stage, midbass, midrange, tweeter. Then a 2 way sub, (front and rear sub). So essentially a 5way system



Light green is my tweeter
Blue is my midrange
Orange is my midbass
Red is my front sub
Dark green is my rear subs

Withought time alightment and EQing each individual driver for its intended passband results would have been unfavorable.

Here's everything as a whole.



I have way more bass than any one needs but that's how I like it. Our bass response from trunk subs sucks, here is a raw responce.



This is after cleaning it up a lil bit.



See how it starts dropping like a rock around 50hz. Door midbasses don't do very well below 80hz. So it leaves a gap between 50- 80hz. So I added a front sub to get proper midbass responce.





I went to extreams to get proper response In my accord.

ItsonlyAHonda said:

1. I was under the impression that the hu was the component responsible for crossing over the sound, as in, also, crossover point, bass roll off, etc. Am I incorrect about this? I watched that directly on YT, but you can't believe everything you watch. From what you're saying, it's the factory amp that is manipulating the signals. Am I correct? This refers to you comment on don' bother with the epicenter.

Click to expand...

In the 10ch system like ours, it's the amp that manipulates everything. If you bypass it with the Axxess DSP/amp bypass it eliminates all these issues.


I was talking bout sealing the door cavities with something solid. Read the article I posted.


Tunning is a whole other monster that can not be done with the factory head unit. You said your not interestedin time alightmentand such but thats what you need to get proper sound. I can tell you that our cars room aquistic sucks and to get really good midbass you have to take it too extreams. I had to install a subwoofer in my passenger footwell, beefy midbasses and trunk subs to get it where i wanted. A DSP, calibrated mic, laptop is needed to get things tuned properly. On youtube tunning is referred to as setting gains on your amp, that's not tunning. I'll give you something else to read. I attached a PDF. Later I'll attach some photos of my tune.



The axxess amp bypass has all the wiring and instructions needed. You won't have to tap into anything if go that route. That DSP with the kit is basic but it still has tunning capabilities that can still get you a decent sound system.



I say use the components you already have. If you properly sound treat your doors and attemp a tune on your system I'm sure you'll be happy with the results on the components you already have. Swapping them out and not doing these things will yield similar results. Install and tune are THE most important parts of getting good sound quality in a car sound system.



I've never used a 5ch amp so it's hard for me to recommend one. But that 5th ch needs to have a feature to be able to bypass the crossovers. Like I said they are meant for bass, so most will have a undefeatable low pass filter.

I just looked at some of the options but I can't find one that provides a full range signal for the 5th ch. You could run your sub on the 5th ch and buy a 2ch amp for the centre. That way you only have 2 amps but you won't be re using the amp you already have. It may be more difficult for you to run a centre, I'd consider just skipping it.
[/QUOTE]

Thanks so much for replying.

I really don't want to skip the center channel, so, I'll look for a very small 2 ch amp, providing I can't find a 5ch with 5 full range signals.

I don't have the time right now to read your CAT manual, but I will do so soon (have to go to work). From the quick perusal of the contents though, I am guessing that I don't even have the equipment needed to do this. Also, I do have a laptop, but it runs Linux, so I don't know if any recommended software will run on it

Thanks!

ItsonlyAHonda said:

You would need windows to run REW. The software is free and really good.

The axxess kit should be able to get you a very basic tune. It has time alighment and a small amount of EQ bands. Enough to knock down excessive peeks in response.

It's not my CAT manual lol 😆 but it's a really good guide. It will give you an understanding of what needs to be done to get good sound quality in a car environment.

Click to expand...

Hi,
Home from work and will be monitoring this thread all night.

Well, looks like I will re-install windows on my laptop, and ditch linux for now.
I haven't read the CAT manual yet, (because I'm scared ), but I'm sure what I read in it will be mostly new news to me. I love learning, even at my age, and this seems like the tuning part will be a fun challenge. What I dread is doing the install.

As far as that goes, in our 10th gen Accords, with an amp, where is it located? Some vids said in the driver kick panel, others said under the dash/console area. This would be good to know.

I'm presuming that the CAT manual makes reference to the REW software you mentioned. Having not read the manual yet, I will assume I am gonna need a mic, so any reasonably priced suggestions would be appreciated. Since I haven't read it, I do not know really anything, like source signal, etc, but I'm dying to learn.

The first stumbling block I have is that I never installed components in the rear. Matter of fact, I disconnected the tweeters. I gonna spend a good amount of time online here now and look up equipment. So, I'll be looking for same series hopefully kicker 6" components for the rear. That way it's kicker all around.

OPINIONS: I have said I have an Alpine Type R 12D4 wired to 2 ohms. Now, I bought the kicker amp that I did because I researched the "best" amp for that sub. I can't remember the wattage specs of the sub without looking it up, but I kinda like the idea of a 5 channel, 4 full range and 1 sub, and a very small 2 channel for the center. That would give me only 2 amps to mount, wire, etc. My question is, what, if anyone knows off hand, should the minimum RMS sub power be. I know that sub can handle a lot peak, but if I'm gonna look for a 5 channel to run the sub as well, what power would you guys recommend? (for sub output)

I gonna begin looking up equipment and estimating cost. That actually is enjoyable to me as well!

Thanks again.

Pittviper said:

where is it located?

Click to expand...

Yes, kick panel by the center console/dash.



Find an amp that will give you its rated RMS (750) @2ohm


I know you may not want to hear this..... But... I'd suggest not to worry about rear speakers. Get the front sounding as good as possible and if your not satisfied with it then add rears. I don't have rear speakers (besides my trunk subs) at all, and I'm totally happy with it.

Hi, had to take a mental day off yesterday and avoided all electronics, but I'm back today!

I want to comment on several of the issues we've addressed.

First off, when I said kick panel, I meant the one farthest to the right of the car, in front of the passenger door. This pic shows that it is pretty much center of the car under the whole dash. No problem.

Next, I've looked up reviews on that JBL 8 channel amp. IMO, I don't think 40w is gonna give me the power I want, it's just a hinky feeling I have, and to go there and find out I was right would have been a real waste of time. So, I think I'll opt for the Axcess DSP/Bypass Harness. Either way though, I have to install Windows 10, maybe 11 if I can find the workaround, on my laptop to adjust either of them. Definitely not an issue there. Also, I noticed the JBL 8ch has 6 inputs, but I need 9; how would one handle that anyway?

So, at this point I'm thinking the Axcess unit under the dash and wired, and tapping into the factory speaker harness for all 9 speakers, but need advice on where to get the signal for the sub amp at this point, since everything will now be completely different than I have it.

Have to run for a bit, but when I get back, I'll post links to the equipment I'm thinking of getting at this point, hopefully.

Also want to address the gent who said he runs no rear speakers. I've been told that there is no way to get a completely tuned and full sounding audio system without them. What is everyone's take on this?

See you in a bit.

Hi folks,

I took some time to print out and read the whole manual for the axcess interface unit. Now I understand a good bit more, and I don't think it will be as difficult as I'm making it in my mind. But, I will be printing out the CAT manual next. I'm quite sure that one will be very interesting to me! I have most assuredly never done what is going to be explained in that manual!

As far as equipment goes, allow me to link to the main things I was intending to buy. These links will not include anything like wiring or installation accessories, just main equipment.

What I have now (minus some details)

1. Kicker 47KSS6704
2. AudioControl LC2i (Black)
3. Older model Alpine Type R dvc sub wired to 2 ohms in a sealed ~1.5-1.7 cu ft sealed enclosure
4. Factory HU
5. Factory Amp (to be bypassed)
6. Kicker 3.5" in center, forget model #.
7. Factory Rear speakers, tweeters disconnected.

Now, thinking of purchasing, in no particular order, the following: (feel free to comment)

1. https://www.sonicelectronix.com/ite...3-Digital-signal-processor-and-T-harness.html
2. Pioneer GM-DX975 Was gonna try to use this for sub, but don't know if it's powerful enough. May have to use 3 amps. But, hopefully only 2.
3. Kicker 46CSS674 (Rear)
4. Pioneer GM-A3702 (center channel)

Left out things like interconnects, speaker wire, little bit of power wire, ferrules, etc...and distribution blocks. More interested in the main stuff above.

Also, I did get to print out the CAT manual. I see I need a mic, and I was looking at the imm-6 (for cost efficiency), and also read that I should use a cheap external sound card from ebay, but I see that the mic has a balanced connector, and I can't seem to find one of those inexpensive sound cards for laptops with a balanced output. Will the mike still work, trrs --> trs?

Once planned out, install shouldn't be that hard, just very time consuming for me.

I was thinking of doing the rear components and sound treating the rear deck first.

After that, I would make sure I had the amps (Hopeuflly 2, maybe 3) and dist blocks, wiring, etc, laid out already on something I cut from wood.

Then, the big one, Take a whole day to disassemble enough to get the the factory amp, install the bypass/dsp, and run wires, connect to not yet connected amp rack, and that will all comprise the hardest part for me.

Then, if I have any energy remaining that day, use the dsp software that you put on your phone, but if no energy, do that the next day.

If you can suggest an external sound card to go with the mic I mentioned, I'm all ears. I just know that is does not have a trs connector, so I question if it will work with the usb sound card devices I saw on ebay.

Let me know if I've missed anything.

Thanks as always!