Old advice needed...can't find old posts...Have a 2018 Accord EX-L. Thinking of bypassing stock amp and need help...

1153 Views 42 Replies 2 Participants Last post by ItsonlyAHonda, 2 d ago

Pittviper

Discussion Starter · 2 mo ago

Hello folks again,

It's been a while since I've been on here.

I've decided to attempt to bypass the stock amp, and add a 5 channel amp, as per your suggestions, and I also currently have an lc2i and kicker amp with a 12" alpine type R sub in a sealed enclosure. I have also replaced all of the stock front speakers, with kicker brand.

I find I cannot get the sound, nor volume, that I want. Past threads I was involved in posted links to the stock amp bypass and other very relevant details, like links to videos showing how to do all of this.

I would like advice (and links hopefully), for the factory amp bypass harness, and a few good, yet affordable, recommendations for a 5 channel amp. I also intended to keep using the kicker monoblock amp and the sub I have.

I am unsatisfied with the volume and clarity. I was thinking that adding more power to the speakers I currently have installed would solve the problem for me. In a dream world, I would like to try dsp, but am short on funds, and the knowledge on how to even tune such a system. I am trying to avoid a trip to an installer.

I am perfectly capable of doing the wiring, but I need advice on a 5 channel amp, and how to use this with the exact same setup for the sub that I have now. I'm using the lc2i, with bass knob, and if there is a better way to wire this, please let me know.

I really need that link to the harness to bypass the factory amp. And, I'm sure someone can find the thread that linked all of the pertinent information I would need. I can't seem to find it though.

I am not looking to spend more than $300 or so for the 5 channel amp. And, advice on how to wire everything would be great.

This will be my spring/summer project.

Also, I find I am really lacking in midbass. I did sound deaden the front doors, and probably will for the rear doors as well, as well as the rear deck, which I haven't done yet.

But, this post is basically for equipment advice. I want/have to avoid a shop install due to financial reasons.

Please give me all of the help you can, and if you can find the original post where I asked for help, and it contained the links for the harness, as well as videos, I would greatly appreciate it. I have tried unsuccessfully to find it.

Thanks, and I'm sure I'll need your help going forward.

Ciao!

Viper

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Pittviper

Discussion Starter · #21 · 1 mo ago

ItsonlyAHonda said:
That amp will work fine. Your sub is rated 750w and the 5th ch provides 600w. The extra 150w would be negligible. You would need to provide double the power to gain an extra 3db. So adding an extra 150w would be less than 1db gain. You won't notice the difference.

Thank You. I am familiar with half power point rule, but just wasn't sure if 600w was enough. Question: I am under the impression that that is 600w RMS. I've been unable to find out what the peak power for that amp is. Can you provide any assistance?

Thanks again.

ItsonlyAHonda

· #22 · 1 mo ago

600RMS is the power rating, peak should be double. But the peak power thing is just a marketing gimmick.you shouldn't worry about those numbers

Pittviper

Discussion Starter · #23 · 1 mo ago

ItsonlyAHonda said:
600RMS is the power rating, peak should be double. But the peak power thing is just a marketing gimmick.you shouldn't worry about those numbers

Thanks!

Reactions: 1

Pittviper

Discussion Starter · #24 · 18 d ago

Hello again folks,

I have modified my proposed equipment list, and will probably post that later. I have a rather busy day today, for me at least.

2 questions though:

1. I did put butyl rubber sound deadening on the outer front doors shells. Do I need to treat at all the inner part of the door as is pictured in the post that says this is what our doors look like. Right now, just the factory water sealing is there now. Does that need to be covered up, and if so, with what?

2. Most important question. Someone I remember posted a link to an explanation of the signal path in the 10th gen premium sound. I remember the post as the word "here" was in blue (the link), and I wanted to access it and print it out, but can no longer find it. Can you guys help me out?

I will be checking for replies. Have a Dr. appt today. Wish me luck!

ItsonlyAHonda

· #25 · 17 d ago

5

Yes it's best to put it inside the door too. Best practice would also to remove the factory water shield and replace it with something solid. ABS plastic was used on my car and that was also covered with sound deadening.

This prevents the rear sound waves from entering the cabin and interacting with the front sound waves. This causes cancelation and boosting of different frequencies. Sealed those cavities will give you much better midbass response.

You'd also like to put CCF on your door card to prevent the door skin rattling against the plastic door panel.

Here's a link to our cars door treatment from resonix.

resonixsoundsolutions.com

2018+ Honda Accord (10th Gen.) : Doors - ResoNix Sound Solutions

For this Tenth Generation 2018 Honda Accord, we did a basic sound system and did...

resonixsoundsolutions.com

Here's how mine look.

Hood Automotive tire Automotive lighting Motor vehicle Wheel

Automotive tire Asphalt Automotive design Road surface Motor vehicle

Automotive parking light Hood Automotive lighting Automotive tire Motor vehicle

Hood Automotive tire Luggage and bags Automotive lighting Automotive design

Automotive tire Hood Motor vehicle Automotive lighting Automotive design

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Pittviper

Discussion Starter · #26 · 16 d ago

Great reply!

I read everything on the entire Resonix website yesterday. I even printed out the article with pictures on what they did to that Lambo's doors. But, there is no way I can buy thier products, as I don't have that kind of money.

I like what you did.

Questions: What is the gray stuff you put on your plastic door panel (inner piece), before you put the dynamat on it?
Also, should I put that on the outer door skin over the dynamat I already installed?

The resonix site shows using that white fibrous padding on the inner door plastic piece. Do I "really" need something like that.

I understand the sound treatment principles now, but have to peruse amazon to find less expensive products.

I really want to know what I can use in place of the resonix gray stuff that you put on you plastic inner piece prior to the dynamat. But I can't buy the resonix stuff, way over my price point. Can you recommend another product that does the same thing, preferably from amazon, but not definitely, that does not cost an arm and a leg like the resonix products?

Thanks a million!

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ItsonlyAHonda

· #27 · 16 d ago

I used cheap CCF from Amazon and it worked perfectly.

Siless Liner 157 (4 mm) mil 36 sqft Car Sound Deadening Closed Cell Foam & Heat Insulation mat - PE Foam Sound Deadener Material & Heat Barrier https://a.co/d/bTmOJSn

That resonix stuff is supposed to be the best but really pricey.

ItsonlyAHonda

· #28 · 16 d ago

As far as the fibrous stuff on the clips it's Tesa tape. Not needed but clips could cause rattles.

Tesa Black Fuzzy Fleece Interior Wire Loom Harness Tape for VW, Audi, Mercedes, BMW 19 mm X 15 Meters (5 Rolls) https://a.co/d/fZtA2Rf

Pittviper

Discussion Starter · #29 · 16 d ago

Hi,
Thanks so much. Was out doing yard work.

The PE Foam Sound Deadener Material& Heat Barrier that you linked to...is that the same as dynamat?

I already have dynamat on the outer door skin. What order do these products go on? Does the Siless Liner 157 go over the dynamat?

Also, as far a a stiff material to put over the inner door skin large openings, what would you advise. Also read that you should use some sort of gasket where it touches the metal. What would be good to use there?

Next, the plastic inner door panel. What products, and in what order, need applied there. The resonix article had it pretty much spotted with dynamat type stuff, then this white fibrous stuff. Would you recommend using that, but not resonix, as well on the plastic door panel?

So, basically what I'm asking is the following: Given that both front doors already have dynamat on the outer door skin, what additional products to I need, and in what order do they need to be applied? Also, I'm curious on how to properly treat the rear deck. I imagine dynamat on the top and bottom, as well as ccf on the top between the metal and plastic to stop the major rattling.
Also, I alreay have an abundance of Tessa tape, been using it for years.

Just want to know what else to buy. It would seem that treating the front doors and rear deck are gonna be more time consuming than the actual install of electronics, wiring, and tuning! Lol!

Will await an answer.

And, thanks.

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ItsonlyAHonda

· #30 · 16 d ago

I used CCF for the door panel. That same stuff I linked. It's not like dynamat. It's closed cell foam to decouple the door card to the door skin and stop it from rattling. That needs to be applied on the plastic door panel not the metal door skin. Will work the sane as the "fibrous wool stuff" they serve the same purpose.

For the door cavities you could use expanded PVC plastic, or ABS plastic sheets from Amazon. 1/4-1/2" should do the trick.

The rear deck will be the same as the door. CLD (dynamat) on the metal, CCF (closed cell foam) on the plastic to decouple.

Pittviper

Discussion Starter · #31 · 15 d ago

ItsonlyAHonda said:
I used CCF for the door panel. That same stuff I linked. It's not like dynamat. It's closed cell foam to decouple the door card to the door skin and stop it from rattling. That needs to be applied on the plastic door panel not the metal door skin. Will work the sane as the "fibrous wool stuff" they serve the same purpose.

For the door cavities you could use expanded PVC plastic, or ABS plastic sheets from Amazon. 1/4-1/2" should do the trick.

The rear deck will be the same as the door. CLD (dynamat) on the metal, CCF (closed cell foam) on the plastic to decouple.

Thanks!

Reactions: 1

Pittviper

Discussion Starter · #32 · 14 d ago

ItsonlyAHonda said:
Yes it's best to put it inside the door too. Best practice would also to remove the factory water shield and replace it with something solid. ABS plastic was used on my car and that was also covered with sound deadening.

This prevents the rear sound waves from entering the cabin and interacting with the front sound waves. This causes cancelation and boosting of different frequencies. Sealed those cavities will give you much better midbass response.

You'd also like to put CCF on your door card to prevent the door skin rattling against the plastic door panel.

Here's a link to our cars door treatment from resonix.

2018+ Honda Accord (10th Gen.) : Doors - ResoNix Sound Solutions

For this Tenth Generation 2018 Honda Accord, we did a basic sound system and did...

resonixsoundsolutions.com

Here's how mine look.

View attachment 9048
View attachment 9050
View attachment 9051
View attachment 9049
View attachment 9052

I still need to get, and I apologize for now knowing at the moment the correct name for this, but, the ring on the circumference of the speakers that channel the sound into the cabin. I notice yours are somewhat flanged out, and look as if they are plastic. What product do you use? Can you link to it for a 6.5" speaker, and how wide is it (from speaker to door)? I am guessing 1", but would like to know for sure. When I go to do the doors completely, I will need these.

Also, are those sound channelers that are used on the front door speakers used also on the rear deck speakers?

If you can, can you please link me to this product?

Thanks

Pittviper

Discussion Starter · #33 · 11 d ago

ItsonlyAHonda said:
I used CCF for the door panel. That same stuff I linked. It's not like dynamat. It's closed cell foam to decouple the door card to the door skin and stop it from rattling. That needs to be applied on the plastic door panel not the metal door skin. Will work the sane as the "fibrous wool stuff" they serve the same purpose.

For the door cavities you could use expanded PVC plastic, or ABS plastic sheets from Amazon. 1/4-1/2" should do the trick.

The rear deck will be the same as the door. CLD (dynamat) on the metal, CCF (closed cell foam) on the plastic to decouple.

Couple more questions....

1. What is the foam you put on the cables inside the door? The square looking foam stuff?
2. When I treat the rear deck, I assume what you wrote above is for the top of the deck. Should I use dynamat on the bottom of the rear deck in the trunk? (no CCF there though?)
3. Did you do any treatment on the rear doors, even though there are no speakers there?
4. I notice some seal type foam on the perimeter of the door panels. I don't remember seeing that factory. What product is that?

Thanks, and I may have more questions in the future...
Have a good day.

ItsonlyAHonda

· #34 · 11 d ago

I used the NVX silicone baffles.

NVX XBAF65 Foldable Silicone 6.5" Speaker Baffle with Egg Crate Foam, one Pair/Box https://a.co/d/iFBojFZ

That foam..... I don't know, that was Installed by the installers it seems to be just some type if regular foam sleeve.

The rear deck, just on one side should be fine. Dynamat is meant to add mass to the thin sheet metal to prevent it from resonance.

I didn't do the rear doors...... yet.... but will one day.

That seems to be some type of gasket tape. I thought it was factory.

Something like this should work

MAGZO Foam Weather Stripping 1/2 Inch W X 1/4 Inch T, Insulation Tape for Door Window Single Sided Adhesive, Total Length 26 Feet (13ft x 2 Rolls) https://a.co/d/b2RNvZL

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Pittviper

Discussion Starter · #35 · 7 d ago

Hi all,

I have all the stuff now to properly do the door treatment...may start today, but we'll see.

I was reviewing this thread, and I have what seems to be a "newbie" question regarding dsp's. Since that is a subject new to me, I would call me a newbie in that area.

Ready...stupid question ahead!!

Proposing I use the axcess dsp/amp bypass, do I need to use the crossovers supplied with my speakers. Currently I'm not using them. And, life would be easier if I did not have to use them. It's been a LONG time since I was heavily into car audio, and that stuff didn't exist then. I guess I'm asking for a good definition of "active" vs. "passive", in a way. My gut tells me that if I'm using a dsp, the supplied crossovers will be unnecessary.

Can someone please confirm this for me?

Thanks to all who contribute, once again.

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ItsonlyAHonda

· #36 · 7 d ago

If you are going to run active, each speaker needs it's own amplified channel. You'll also need enough channels on the DSP. 2 tweeters in the front plus 2 mids that's a 4 channel amp and 4 channels of processing for just the front speakers.

Passive only needs 2 channels of amplification and 2 processed channels for the front speakers. The passive crossover will provide the crossovers between the mid and the tweeter.

Active is much better than passive. You'll have control over the crossover slope and frequency and time alightment for all 4 speakers will keep everything in phase for a much better sound.

Passive will be easier but won't sound as good. Time alightment will also be screwed cuz you'll only be able to time align the set and not individually.

Pittviper

Discussion Starter · #37 · 6 d ago

Thanks for the reply.

I looked at the software settings for both the axcess dsp/amp bypass, and REW. It seems there is a setting to combine, for example, front left mid and tweeter into one channel that is controlled by the software. I was planning on using a 4 channel amp to power both front and back, both are component sets. Does the software for the DSP that combines the mid and tweeter into one channel the same thing as you are talking about?

Thanks.

ItsonlyAHonda

· #38 · 5 d ago

If you are going to run both front/rear speakers on a single 4ch amp, you will need to use the passive crossover that come with the speakers.

In the software you'll need to just route the signal to the amp. 80hz-20khz should be fine.

From the amp you'll run the speaker wire to the crossover then the crossover to each speaker.

Pittviper

Discussion Starter · #39 · 4 d ago

Thank You.

I guess I lack a fundamental understanding of exactly what that axcess dsp does... I hope, when I get to that point, the software is semi-intuitive...

Thanks again!

ItsonlyAHonda

· #40 · 4 d ago

This will give you a slightly better understanding

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