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I would love to see a one of these accords murdered out into a Drag Car, with a turbo Sticking out and a side or top straight pipe exit. Honestly wonder how hard they can be pushed on the Automatic 10 speed platform.
 

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I would love to see a one of these accords murdered out into a Drag Car, with a turbo Sticking out and a side or top straight pipe exit. Honestly wonder how hard they can be pushed on the Automatic 10 speed platform.
24 lbs. is the boost target now...23 lbs. all day...pretty solid with no issues. It's all about a properly configured boost-by-gear setup.

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That power is more than likely an upgraded turbo that's still needs some tuning. I have a tremendous amount of experience with VW 2.0t's. Not sure what company Honda uses, but from the pictures of a Civic type R turbo, it's about the size of a K04, and the Dyno plot is very similar to what a turbo of that size would flow. Gt28 or Gt30 comparable turbos of which there are too many to list here( Precision, Borg Warner to name a couple of makers) would be good upgrades depending on how strong the stock internals are. Anything with more low end torque on than what the picture of the Dyno plot shows on VW's require rods. So unless you plan on doing internals, the above plot may be around what your going to get with bolt ons. Again I have no idea as to the strength of the Honda motor, simply relaying my experience with something similar.
 

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Hwe
That power is more than likely an upgraded turbo that's still needs some tuning. I have a tremendous amount of experience with VW 2.0t's. Not sure what company Honda uses, but from the pictures of a Civic type R turbo, it's about the size of a K04, and the Dyno plot is very similar to what a turbo of that size would flow. Gt28 or Gt30 comparable turbos of which there are too many to list here( Precision, Borg Warner to name a couple of makers) would be good upgrades depending on how strong the stock internals are. Anything with more low end torque on than what the picture of the Dyno plot shows on VW's require rods. So unless you plan on doing internals, the above plot may be around what your going to get with bolt ons. Again I have no idea as to the strength of the Honda motor, simply relaying my experience with something similar.
Hello,
That is with the stock TD03 and pure gas 93 octane with none of that ethanol junk at all. Thanks guys and have an amazing day!
 

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I always through 1 Gear also , in the Area of Shift By Auto , It's to High for Cams Shifting , but 50Hp & 50 Ft lbs Tq. is Spike for Sure .. with a Raise Awards
Might be Waste Gate Cracks Full Open ~ ? But with Electronic Control seems that would be way Smoother .. ?
Guess it could be ~ Fuel Dump
 

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Hello,
She is a full bolt-on girl and was tuned on a properly configured Dynojet at National Speed in Richmond, VA on a conservative tune for reliability.
This is why the torque curve looks like a bigger turbo than stock. Low end torque kills engine internals, especially with such a small turbo having so much torque down low. The tuner has delayed it for reliability.
 

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I always through 1 Gear also , in the Area of Shift By Auto , It's to High for Cams Shifting , but 50Hp & 50 Ft lbs Tq. is Spike for Sure .. with a Raise Awards
Might be Waste Gate Cracks Full Open ~ ? But with Electronic Control seems that would be way Smoother .. ?
Guess it could be ~ Fuel Dump
Could be the ECU adapting too. It's too hard to speculate without seeing more data from logs, ie fueling request vs actual, boost request vs actual, wastegate solenoid duty cycle, timing ect.
 

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This is why the torque curve looks like a bigger turbo than stock. Low end torque kills engine internals, especially with such a small turbo having so much torque down low. The tuner has delayed it for reliability.
"Low end torque kills engine internals"
This worries me. I will not likely be able to afford New Car, so how bad are we talking? Should I buy a used 2018 and then immediately look to change how the turbo works? I am not very familiar with all of this or what can / should be done.

What all would even be involved with that, what sort of costs are involved?
 

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Again I'm not sure as I have almost no experience with this particular engine and how strong it's internals are. If it were just rods, a "drop in" set would be around $500 for the parts not including labor to tear the engine apart. If your staying with bolt ons you should be fine. Reputable companies like Hondata know what they are doing. It's when you are adding bigger turbos ect you need to be prepared to address those issues. Good start would be to read about the Civic R engine and see what they did to it compared to the normal 2.0 engine. But I would be willing to bet rods was something they upgraded or will be a limiting factor when looking for power somewhere above 350hp-400hp. Almost every manufacturer uses their version of this 2.0t direct injection engine and most are pretty much limited to that general area. The exception I can think of off the top of my head is the AMG blocks, especially the new one they just came out with. That new one is built like a diesel engine, has a closed deck like the original Supra. It's an impressive piece of engineering.
 
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