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Also want to add a question to the above. Is it the fact that the factory speaker has a higher sensitivity than the ones I put in the doors. Back in my day, there were no center channels, so I've never dealt with this issue before. Thanks.

Viper
BTW, these are the speakers I have in the doors: Kicker 47KSS6704. 91db sensitivity.

This is what I was hoping to get for the dash: Kicker 47KSC3504. 88db sensitivity. Is this the one you have?

Thanks,

Viper
 

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Hi,

Actually, I am interested in that single Kicker 3.5". How much are you selling it for first of? And, before I even look at the videos of how to change it, tell me, is it really difficult?

Strange thing is, I did not notice this effect when I just listened in the driveway. But upon driving, the center was heard over the door speakers. Do you think changing it, to a Kicker brand like I have in my doors, would alleviate this issue?

I'll await your reply. I hope you can get back to me tonight. If not, I'll catch you when you do.

Thanks,

Viper
BTW, these are the speakers I have in the doors: Kicker 47KSS6704. 91db sensitivity.

This is what I was hoping to get for the dash: Kicker 47KSC3504. 88db sensitivity. Is this the one you have?

Thanks,

Viper
No I have a Kicker CSC which is the model right below the KSC (although I am running a set of KSC in the dash of my new Camry right now). I'm not sure what the sensitivity of it is. It may alleviate the issue as it gets rid of a lot of the highs from the stock center channel as a more balanced sound. The side effect of that is when you're playing certain types of music the warning alerts are very muted because it comes through the center channel. In order to remedy this you'd probably have to put a base blocker in it, but that defeats the purpose of changing at the center channel in the first place. The center channel made a very big difference. If I had gotten another Accord, And had to do the stereo all over again, I wouldn't touch the rear deck speakers at all and just do the front doors and center channel with a sub. I'm selling it for $25 shipped. Hit me up on DM if you want to proceed just taking up space in my garage with the other remaining parts from my Accord.
 

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Hi,

Actually, I am interested in that single Kicker 3.5". How much are you selling it for first of? And, before I even look at the videos of how to change it, tell me, is it really difficult?

Strange thing is, I did not notice this effect when I just listened in the driveway. But upon driving, the center was heard over the door speakers. Do you think changing it, to a Kicker brand like I have in my doors, would alleviate this issue?

I'll await your reply. I hope you can get back to me tonight. If not, I'll catch you when you do.

Thanks,

Viper
If you have your speed sensing volume compensation setting on I suggest you turn it off. That's probly why you hear the unbalanced when your driving. Plus it turns your volume up when your driving. I don't know how you set up your gains on your bass amp. But if you have it set to clip let's say at 32 and your listening to that level while your moving you will clip your amp then you will eventually blow your sub.
 

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2022 Honda Accord Hybrid Touring
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Hey everyone, great thread! This is my first post, and I have been searching/researching this topic for about a month so far. Instead of starting another new thread on the topic, I think someone here may be able to answer my questions.

I have the JL C2-650 components. I was originally going to place the crossovers (didn't know how to do so with a factory amp), but have decided to skip this since Salle2061 had good results, as read here and on DriveAccord. The issue now is, my tweeters have a low range of 4k Hz which is lower than the factory crossover of the 450W "Premium" system. Oh, yeah, I have a 2022 Hybrid Touring.

Should I worry about the difference between 3500 and 4000 Hz and find an inline passive crossover to place between the tweeters and where I attach to the factory wiring behind the door panel? Does anyone have one that they know of? Crutchfield has one listed at 5000Hz.

I plan to place the same components in the rear deck and have a new center stage 3.5" to place as well (Hertz DCX87.3). I have already disconnected the ANC since my parts are coming in tomorrow and my new sub and amp will be here by Saturday. This leads to my next question...

I plan to install the Infinity Kappa 800W which is the older version of the 83WDSSI. I will run this in the stock position (slightly modified) as a free air sub. I will power this with the Kenwood KAC-3001 which is a mono 300W RMS @2 ohm, 600W peak. This keeps it limited to ~30amps in addition to my stock system (not sure if the hybrid rec is in addition to or all together).

Where/How do I connect my amp to the factory system to hear the sub through the head unit? I have always run all new wires and new head units when I have completed upgrades in the past.

Will I need a LOC or DSP to complete this setup? Would there have been a better choice in amp for this?

My knowledge of DSP/LOC is minimal and any information on the best way to get the extra power to the sub while using the stock amp for my other speakers is greatly appreciated. Even if I biffed it and should return some items to get what I actually need, PLEASE LET ME KNOW!
 

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Don't use the crossover, don't use an inline cap. Use the stock wiring directly to the new tweeter. The amp has a channel just for the tweeter with a crossover just for it. If your new tweeter plays lower, Great you don't have to worry about the higher crossover.

For the sub get the signal from the factory sub high level (speaker wire). Your amp can accept a high level input but you will need to buy an RCA to speaker wire thing like this.

CESS-064-1f Speaker Cables to RCA Plugs Adapter, 2-Channel (1 Foot) https://a.co/d/hpS9dd8

If you go high level in to your amp you won't need to run a remote wire. Amp will turn its self on when running high level in. But if you use an LOC it turns the signal into a low level input then you'll have to run a remote wire. So, don't use an LOC.

That said, I think what your trying to do is pointless. The sub won't sound good free air and amplified. The extra excursion is just going to cause a bunch of rattles and you'll need alot of sound treatment back there. Then the rear waves from the sub won't be completely sealed off and cause cancelation, and youll get a terrible response. Your best off using a sub n box in the trunk. But since your limited to 300w you'll just have a lil bit of bass cuz out trunks are extreamly isolated back there. I run extream power in my trunk to satisfy my bass needs.

Now changing the front and rear components will yield very lil results also. You'll maybe get a couple clicks more from the volume knob before distortion starts taking over. The only speaker replacement that made a real difference in output was the centre ch for some reason. The limiting factor here is the factory amp. It sux and replacing speakers dosnt change that.

Sorry to put it that way. But I did the whole replace the speakers thing and it sounded like trash still. I took extream measures in my sound system to make it sound good.

Try it since you already bought everything. You maybe different than me and may enjoy it.
 

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2022 Honda Accord Hybrid Touring
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Don't use the crossover, don't use an inline cap. Use the stock wiring directly to the new tweeter. The amp has a channel just for the tweeter with a crossover just for it. If your new tweeter plays lower, Great you don't have to worry about the higher crossover.

For the sub get the signal from the factory sub high level (speaker wire). Your amp can accept a high level input but you will need to buy an RCA to speaker wire thing like this.

CESS-064-1f Speaker Cables to RCA Plugs Adapter, 2-Channel (1 Foot) https://a.co/d/hpS9dd8

If you go high level in to your amp you won't need to run a remote wire. Amp will turn its self on when running high level in. But if you use an LOC it turns the signal into a low level input then you'll have to run a remote wire. So, don't use an LOC.

That said, I think what your trying to do is pointless. The sub won't sound good free air and amplified. The extra excursion is just going to cause a bunch of rattles and you'll need alot of sound treatment back there. Then the rear waves from the sub won't be completely sealed off and cause cancelation, and youll get a terrible response. Your best off using a sub n box in the trunk. But since your limited to 300w you'll just have a lil bit of bass cuz out trunks are extreamly isolated back there. I run extream power in my trunk to satisfy my bass needs.

Now changing the front and rear components will yield very lil results also. You'll maybe get a couple clicks more from the volume knob before distortion starts taking over. The only speaker replacement that made a real difference in output was the centre ch for some reason. The limiting factor here is the factory amp. It sux and replacing speakers dosnt change that.

Sorry to put it that way. But I did the whole replace the speakers thing and it sounded like trash still. I took extream measures in my sound system to make it sound good.

Try it since you already bought everything. You maybe different than me and may enjoy it.
Hey, thanks for your response, I do really appreciate the advice! I'll still install everything over the next week and see how it sounds. The sub is marketed as a "free air" sub and some others in the forums have used it with what they say are good results. My fingers are crossed.

I debated getting a compact-powered sub but I really don't want to put anything under the seats for a few reasons. I don't have a lot of bass needs and hope that this will be sufficient for my tastes. As for the sound deadening, I have quite a bit of 50, 80, and 100mil Kilmat on hand from a truck project that I over-ordered for.

I will focus my research on installing the amp and utilizing the speaker to RCA for my signal.

Cheers!
 

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Hey, thanks for your response, I do really appreciate the advice! I'll still install everything over the next week and see how it sounds. The sub is marketed as a "free air" sub and some others in the forums have used it with what they say are good results. My fingers are crossed.

I debated getting a compact-powered sub but I really don't want to put anything under the seats for a few reasons. I don't have a lot of bass needs and hope that this will be sufficient for my tastes. As for the sound deadening, I have quite a bit of 50, 80, and 100mil Kilmat on hand from a truck project that I over-ordered for.

I will focus my research on installing the amp and utilizing the speaker to RCA for my signal.

Cheers!
You should also use CCF (closed cell foam) to seperate the plastic rear shelf and the metal. Killmat is meant to put mass on the metal and help with resonance. But it won't help with rattles. You should also put CCF to seperate the plastic sheft and 3rd break light from the rear window. I used this stuff

Siless Liner 157 mil (4 mm) 36 sqft Car Sound Deadening & Heat Insulation Closed Cell Foam - PE Foam Sound Deadener https://a.co/d/9VSK5AQ

Try n separate any where 2 hard surfaces meet pastic/metal/window.
 
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