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Installed 20mm H&R wheel spacers today on my Accord 2.0T Touring.
H&R lowering springs on order too but with Canadian winter quickly approaching, those won't go on till spring...
 

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Hey all,
I am generally not one to dissuade others modifying their cars, and I'm not going to do that here either. :smile:

I want to post this so that future readers have the opportunity to understand what adding spacers "can" do to your car.
This also applies to installing wheels with less positive offset than the factory +50mm.

No criticisms, just hoping to give readers more information. :wink:

20+ years ago I would have typed up a page or so of info. I'll let Scotty Kilmer handle this one.
 

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A bunch of people seem to be going with spacers on the new Accord. Personally never really seen the need for how subtle the change is. And Scotty is basically against anything aftermarket lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Hey all,
I am generally not one to dissuade others modifying their cars, and I'm not going to do that here either. :smile:

I want to post this so that future readers have the opportunity to understand what adding spacers "can" do to your car.
This also applies to installing wheels with less positive offset than the factory +50mm.

No criticisms, just hoping to give readers more information. :wink:

20+ years ago I would have typed up a page or so of info. I'll let Scotty Kilmer handle this one.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=20ADh8nm0wc
Nice video - If I am understanding , this guy doesn’t believe in modifying anything because the engineers who developed the car, did so perfectly? Then why are putting intakes on, lowering, tuning, etc? The manufacturer is concerned with a long list of criteria: tire wear, life expectancy of suspension and body parts, cost of warranty repairs, being able to load a certain amount of people or weight in the car, etc...
I get your point but using his reasoning, we should not modify any car in any way....Personally I am not the slightest bit concerned about premature tire or bearing or any other component wear. I leased my car, I drive minimal mileage and I don’t autocross, drag race or generally drive my car hard. I don’t carry 5 adults in my car (or 3 for that matter).
From an esthetics point of view, I didn’t like the way the rims/tires weren’t flush with the body in stock form and in person this change is noticeably different in look. Car doesn’t feel any differently in steering feel, in braking (maybe because I went with a conservative size spacer?) or handling.
 

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I don't see a problem with it personally 1fastfamilycar. I definitely haven't looked into it myself on the 2018 Accord. I have experienced aftermarket wheels that were +40mm instead of +52mm on a different car and with the suspension geometry of that car, it caused a few issues.
Sometimes new people come along and say, "Hey, if they are doing it and don't seem to be having problems, I can do twice as much!", etc.

I'm not a huge Kilmer fan, but the points he brought up were adequate warnings to be aware of.
I wish he'd have shown an technical image of what happens to the contact patch of tires that stick out too far though.
 

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Keep us posted once you get lowering springs installed; I have a 2.0T Touring as well and I don't know how the active dampers will be affected.
 

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Wheels should really be sitting flush with the car from factory, and that's probably the main reason why we are seeing owners going this route with the Accord. Really don't see how spacers could impact tire wear in any significant way.
 

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Hey all,
I am generally not one to dissuade others modifying their cars, and I'm not going to do that here either. :smile:

I want to post this so that future readers have the opportunity to understand what adding spacers "can" do to your car.
This also applies to installing wheels with less positive offset than the factory +50mm.

No criticisms, just hoping to give readers more information. :wink:

20+ years ago I would have typed up a page or so of info. I'll let Scotty Kilmer handle this one.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=20ADh8nm0wc
Having seen that this can do with real examples from people learning the hard way, i sure learned. Seen for myself how the "stance" scene started and progressed and you can bet a lot of corners were cut. Applying logic similar to what car makers use and reputable tuners and no backyard mechanics is always the smarter move :D
 

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Depending on the suspension geometry, just reducing positive offset can "locate" the contact patch from the middle of the tire towards the inside edge by that amount.
As a simplistic example; if your tire is 200mm wide and the factory contact patch were to take up 195mm, moving the offset outward 20mm would reduce your contact patch to 175mm. (Or less due to leverage) The same tire would have less grip than before.
Contact patches are way more complicated, but this might help explain why you might see more wear on the inside of the tires.
 

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Wheels should really be sitting flush with the car from factory, and that's probably the main reason why we are seeing owners going this route with the Accord. Really don't see how spacers could impact tire wear in any significant way.
Wow! Just Wow! I wanted to believe I knew everything, but that is incorrect also.

Depending on the suspension geometry, just reducing positive offset can "locate" the contact patch from the middle of the tire towards the inside edge by that amount.
As a simplistic example; if your tire is 200mm wide and the factory contact patch were to take up 195mm, moving the offset outward 20mm would reduce your contact patch to 175mm. (Or less due to leverage) The same tire would have less grip than before.
Contact patches are way more complicated, but this might help explain why you might see more wear on the inside of the tires.
I had to do some investigating but you are correct in the calculations. Plus the torque load is increased on wheel bearings. If you don't believe it, look it up
 

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Tire Wear - will Tell You a Lot . .

Wow that seems like a Lot .. ?

Anyone have the Geometry on this Accord ?

As Generally - One would go with a Wider Rim , so lets say 14 mm of that Wider Rim is going Inward side
That move - certainly seems It would need to be Subtracted Off of Tire Patch _ Contact during - Calculations . .

1. A Wider Rim also places the Side Walls of the Tire into Stretched Position - which also Adds to Contact Area .
Then there is Side wall Give or Flex - side walls are Actually Always Flexing - Hence the Reasons 8 Ply or 14 Ply are Needed on HD Trailers Loaded Tires ( Stronger , Heat Removal ) etc.
Don't Flex as Much so Heat Build Up is Not an Issue - Reason You see Tires pcs. all over Highways Mostly Heat & Over Loading or Running Under Rated Tires . .

2. Stretching the Tires side walls - Placing it on Wider Rim - Removes some Flex Out - this in Turn makes the Sway Bar Act Faster .. do to Pushing Up , Harder and Quicker , Sooner ..

3. Special Alignment is going to be Needed , Depending on the Offset Used , It could range from Adjusting Toe In another 1/16 " in , to Stronger Bushings on LCA ..

This just My Thoughts & My 5 Cents on this Subject .
ps: Inward Toe could be as high 1/8 inch Additional from Factory Spec. On - 235 Tires do to more Road Drag ..:angel:
 

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Thank you BuickNut. I appreciate your feedback!

Attached is a pic that explains this a little better. Note the black line and where it hits the ground.
That imaginary line can be moved by adjusting suspension parts, changing wheel offset, or changing tire diameter.
A person can increase offset with spacers, then increase tire diameter to bring the line back to the center of the tire. But then the speedometer and gearing are modified as well.
A person could also modify the suspension in some way and then also change the wheel offset to compensate.
The point is, you have to change two or more things to keep the suspension geometry in it's happy spot. Generally, the manufacturer has already tuned the platform for a given tire/wheel combination. They actually don't just slap a set of wheels on and call it a day.
I hope this helps!
 

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Wow, I almost forgot the second part of that diagram!

So, the red line goes through the center of the hub between the two bearings, and ideally through the center of the tire as well.
The diagram shows the offset in blue, but imagine if that was where the center of the tire is as well and the red and black lines stayed where they are. (Which is what they'd do unless you modified the suspension)
The weight of the car is going to remain where the black and red lines intersect.
 

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That's Only Basic Diagram , It isn't showing the Larger Radius & Wider Contact Patch of 1" Wider Rim - Stretching Width of the Tire .. still using Same Size Tire ..
Honda has already placed 50mm Offset on Vehicle .

Yes there will be more Loading on Wheel Bearing , and Tire Wear will Not be the Same .

Moving from 225/50 to 215/55 - moves the Scrub Radius Out . ( Some )

I'd also have to say - If moving the Tire & Rim ( Center-Line ) Further Out Softens the Spring Rate - then Wheel Bearings Aren't taking as Hard a Hit from Pot Holes ..

Butt it is the Constant Loading - little Further Away that shows up over time ..
That said , I would Hope that One of the Most ( Important - Parts ) of any Vehicle "Suspension Components" have been Designed - Over Engineered - Load Rate of 2X at Very Least .

Most Buildings are 2x-3x , Bridges are 5x etc. for example .. Vehicles Heading into Hard Curves with 4-5 Persons & 1000 lb Trailer - should be 3X
 

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Hey man this is kind of old so hopefully you get this. I have the same wheels as you and want to install Ichiba 20mm spacers all around. It sounds like the wheel pockets in the back cleared the studs?
thanks
 
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