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Discussion Starter #1
First Off - I like to just Say do the Fact : I didn't Have Magnetic or Proper 9/16 " Spark Plug socket with Rubber Holder Boot ..
I had to Enlist the Help from Magnetic Prob - which is OK so long as Your Careful - You Don't want to Drop Plug Into the Spark Plug Camber Area
That would cause ~ Plug Gap to be Crushed ~

Secondly Cleanliness is Up most Import-ants . .

Scale of 1-5 this is 2 Very Easy for anyone Spin a Wrench , I also Found the Honda 2.0 to be Very Easy _ Compared to BMW , Audi , Volvo .

Needed Tools will be in the Pictures : If You decide to do this as I did , U must Hold the Plug Straight Vertically with the Magnetic Prob - Gently Lower into Cly.
Find - Cly. Plug Center Opening - using Light Feel - Then Slowly Spin to get ~ Started . .

1. Back to Beginning : Remove the Heat & Sound Cover - takes 1 min. May take a Bit of Up ward Tugging - all 4 Corners - Try Best to Go Up - Not Pulling to one side or the other ..
Remove the 4 Longer Sound Cover / Engine Cover ( Stand Off's ) - make sure to get the One Smooth Black somewhat Hidden these are all 10mm . .
2. Have a Clean Towel work Area to Set every as it comes Off .. so Nothing is ~ Dropped under the Engine Bay .. Remove Small Plastic Plastic Cover ..that Hides Coils ..
3. The Coil Connections have a Center Lift Lock ( Small Flat Head ) Helps a Lot .. these Pop right back and Off . . Once these are all Loose . Undo Thumb Lock to Pull this Small Wire Cover ..
4. Place small wire Cover _ Simply Lift and Place backwards to Cabin out of the way 2-3" ..
5. 10mm is Used on Coil Packs these Pop Up & Out Very Easy
6. You will need a Long Reach Extension for You Ratchet Handle - I used 1 Long and 1 short .. with Long Socket .. see Pictures
7. It took approx 24 Lbs. to Remove , I believe the Tq. on these is only 16-18 ft lbs - this said My Engine is Newer and Very Clean .. ( Older Cars with High Miles & Dirty Roads ) Salt from Winter
May Require and Back & Forth Motion to Loosen Plug 1/2 Turn Out 1/4 In etc. till It feels Loose enough to Pull completely Out .. I'd say anything over 30ft lbs should get this Treatment some ..

8. Plugs were all Pulled and Lined up to be Inspected .
9. Check Motors Plug Cambers for any Debris and Vacuum If Needed ~ Only 1 had few little Spec. ~ I used a Detail Vac that does A/C Vents - reached way in that Pocket ..
10. Install New Plugs _ After Checking Gap - as Box is always 100% Correct , then Install .. as Mentioned above ..

Indexing is Personal & Matter of Choice : I Found on this Motor from Honda had Plugs - Indexed in a Manner - so that - Open Electrode Pointed toward Each Exhaust Port Direction ->
As to Say Cly. 1 and 4 were Left & Right 25-30 Degree from Straight Through in Direction of Intake Ports , Two Center Cly. - Plugs were Perfectly Aligned Pointing straight into Intake . . Opening
I found this Interesting as Certainly does NOT seem to be "Coincidence" . . . these were set for " Clean Burning & Fuel Efficiency " . . .

4105
I Must Say
I have Never seen such Clean Plugs on Any Engine - Ever !

** The Spark Plug Arrangement on the Head is Protected By Heat Shield and Sheet Metal Center Boot Helps Keep things Dry & Clean ..**

Required Tools Bare Min.
4106



Please those Throwing Stones at GDTI Engines - Go Home sleep with the Dogs . .

Here are Pictures of Cly. I took like 12 but only 2 shots came out - Cylinders were all Spotless ..
4107
4108


Cly Piston Top was Little Further Down ..

Hope everyone Likes There Clean Burning Honda Motors ~ Dan ~ Port & Polish Man
 

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Torque for spark plug is 16ft.lb. I’m gonna look into that whole indexing when I have some cylinder heads off and check. Would be even that more important to not over torque the plugs. I’ve seen a few of them break off and leave the threaded sleeve still in the head. Nice info thank you for sharing, I’ll upload the photos of the heads to this post.
 

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Talked to an ex-Honda mechanic. He said the 36k miles spark plug replacement was a must. Kinda like the brake fluid flush at 36k; you could skip it, but an every 36k replacement interval decreases your chance of failure greatly. And none of us buys a fun little turbo to blow it.
 

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Coming from a 6 cyl BMW, I'm actually looking forward to working on this engine when it comes time. Everything looks as simple as it should be. I used to have to remove so much stuff just to get to the rear 3 spark plugs on my old car.

Meanwhile, I knocked out a spark plug change on my wife's car (8th gen Civic) in under 15 mins in front of her brother's house.

I am not very up to date, but having to replace spark plugs every 36k seems a bit much.
I'm sure you can stretch them out much longer but conventional wisdom says to check them at least every 30k or so. Whether or not they need to be replaced is a different story. Chances are, unless you're leaking oil or something they'll be fine until the next check.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Torque for spark plug is 16ft.lb. I’m gonna look into that whole indexing when I have some cylinder heads off and check. Would be even that more important to not over torque the plugs. I’ve seen a few of them break off and leave the threaded sleeve still in the head. Nice info thank you for sharing, I’ll upload the photos of the heads to this post.


(( To All ~ Thanks get Feed Back )) (y) Good to Know a lot shade Tree Mechanic use 20-24 ft. lbs that is too High ~ Especially If Your Using Anti-Seize Grease ~ As Then Your Dealing with
Master Tech's call ~ Wet Tq. which is Different from Dry Tq.

PS : I didn't change Plugs - just Inspected them and Engine .. , Plus Yeah If I had used a Power Drive cut the time in Half .. Volvo would take 40 min. stuff in way ..
These OE Plugs should be Good for 90K at Least ..
 

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Torque for spark plug is 16ft.lb. I’m gonna look into that whole indexing when I have some cylinder heads off and check. Would be even that more important to not over torque the plugs. I’ve seen a few of them break off and leave the threaded sleeve still in the head. Nice info thank you for sharing, I’ll upload the photos of the heads to this post.


(( To All ~ Thanks get Feed Back )) (y) Good to Know a lot shade Tree Mechanic use 20-24 ft. lbs that is too High ~ Especially If Your Using Anti-Seize Grease ~ As Then Your Dealing with
Master Tech's call ~ Wet Tq. which is Different from Dry Tq.

PS : I didn't change Plugs - just Inspected them and Engine .. , Plus Yeah If I had used a Power Drive cut the time in Half .. Volvo would take 40 min. stuff in way ..
These OE Plugs should be Good for 90K at Least ..
Torque for spark plug is 16ft.lb. I’m gonna look into that whole indexing when I have some cylinder heads off and check. Would be even that more important to not over torque the plugs. I’ve seen a few of them break off and leave the threaded sleeve still in the head. Nice info thank you for sharing, I’ll upload the photos of the heads to this post.


(( To All ~ Thanks get Feed Back )) (y) Good to Know a lot shade Tree Mechanic use 20-24 ft. lbs that is too High ~ Especially If Your Using Anti-Seize Grease ~ As Then Your Dealing with
Master Tech's call ~ Wet Tq. which is Different from Dry Tq.

PS : I didn't change Plugs - just Inspected them and Engine .. , Plus Yeah If I had used a Power Drive cut the time in Half .. Volvo would take 40 min. stuff in way ..
These OE Plugs should be Good for 90K at Least ..
At Honda, we typically recommend replacing spark plugs during major service which is at 90k since we pull the plugs and perform a compression test. If they opt out of replacing the plugs at that time we recommend it at 100k. They just save the cost of labor during major service since we have them out already.
 

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At Honda, we typically recommend replacing spark plugs during major service which is at 90k since we pull the plugs and perform a compression test. If they opt out of replacing the plugs at that time we recommend it at 100k. They just save the cost of labor during major service since we have them out already.
Thanks for the info... was thinking plugs in this day, age, & technology should last a lot longer.
 

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First Off - I like to just Say do the Fact : I didn't Have Magnetic or Proper 9/16 " Spark Plug socket with Rubber Holder Boot ..
I had to Enlist the Help from Magnetic Prob - which is OK so long as Your Careful - You Don't want to Drop Plug Into the Spark Plug Camber Area
That would cause ~ Plug Gap to be Crushed ~

Secondly Cleanliness is Up most Import-ants . .

Scale of 1-5 this is 2 Very Easy for anyone Spin a Wrench , I also Found the Honda 2.0 to be Very Easy _ Compared to BMW , Audi , Volvo .

Needed Tools will be in the Pictures : If You decide to do this as I did , U must Hold the Plug Straight Vertically with the Magnetic Prob - Gently Lower into Cly.
Find - Cly. Plug Center Opening - using Light Feel - Then Slowly Spin to get ~ Started . .

1. Back to Beginning : Remove the Heat & Sound Cover - takes 1 min. May take a Bit of Up ward Tugging - all 4 Corners - Try Best to Go Up - Not Pulling to one side or the other ..
Remove the 4 Longer Sound Cover / Engine Cover ( Stand Off's ) - make sure to get the One Smooth Black somewhat Hidden these are all 10mm . .
2. Have a Clean Towel work Area to Set every as it comes Off .. so Nothing is ~ Dropped under the Engine Bay .. Remove Small Plastic Plastic Cover ..that Hides Coils ..
3. The Coil Connections have a Center Lift Lock ( Small Flat Head ) Helps a Lot .. these Pop right back and Off . . Once these are all Loose . Undo Thumb Lock to Pull this Small Wire Cover ..
4. Place small wire Cover _ Simply Lift and Place backwards to Cabin out of the way 2-3" ..
5. 10mm is Used on Coil Packs these Pop Up & Out Very Easy
6. You will need a Long Reach Extension for You Ratchet Handle - I used 1 Long and 1 short .. with Long Socket .. see Pictures
7. It took approx 24 Lbs. to Remove , I believe the Tq. on these is only 16-18 ft lbs - this said My Engine is Newer and Very Clean .. ( Older Cars with High Miles & Dirty Roads ) Salt from Winter
May Require and Back & Forth Motion to Loosen Plug 1/2 Turn Out 1/4 In etc. till It feels Loose enough to Pull completely Out .. I'd say anything over 30ft lbs should get this Treatment some ..

8. Plugs were all Pulled and Lined up to be Inspected .
9. Check Motors Plug Cambers for any Debris and Vacuum If Needed ~ Only 1 had few little Spec. ~ I used a Detail Vac that does A/C Vents - reached way in that Pocket ..
10. Install New Plugs _ After Checking Gap - as Box is always 100% Correct , then Install .. as Mentioned above ..

Indexing is Personal & Matter of Choice : I Found on this Motor from Honda had Plugs - Indexed in a Manner - so that - Open Electrode Pointed toward Each Exhaust Port Direction ->
As to Say Cly. 1 and 4 were Left & Right 25-30 Degree from Straight Through in Direction of Intake Ports , Two Center Cly. - Plugs were Perfectly Aligned Pointing straight into Intake . . Opening
I found this Interesting as Certainly does NOT seem to be "Coincidence" . . . these were set for " Clean Burning & Fuel Efficiency " . . .

View attachment 4105 I Must Say
I have Never seen such Clean Plugs on Any Engine - Ever !

** The Spark Plug Arrangement on the Head is Protected By Heat Shield and Sheet Metal Center Boot Helps Keep things Dry & Clean ..**

Required Tools Bare Min.
View attachment 4106


Please those Throwing Stones at GDTI Engines - Go Home sleep with the Dogs . .

Here are Pictures of Cly. I took like 12 but only 2 shots came out - Cylinders were all Spotless ..
View attachment 4107 View attachment 4108

Cly Piston Top was Little Further Down ..

Hope everyone Likes There Clean Burning Honda Motors ~ Dan ~ Port & Polish Man
Hi I'm looking to do the spark plug change for my accord. I've been looking everywhere but nobody has the spark plugs for my 2018 Honda Accord EX-L 2.0.
What is the specific NGK plugs part numbers that you've used in this write up ? Thanks!
 
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