[RagerX]

Hello everyone!

Sorry I have been busy lately since the last week. I decided to bring in my ride into DB Performance here at Rodger, MN for the FlashPro stage 3 calibration upload and dyno pulls (before and after).

Here are my results:

Stock Dyno Pull
https://ibb.co/iYBqax

Stage 3 +9 PSI
https://ibb.co/cZJxNc
https://ibb.co/dAdLax

Stock vs Stage 3 Tuned
https://ibb.co/fmighc
https://ibb.co/mNvNoH

At first we had issues with tuning the car because of VSA/ABS because ABS still kicks in when it senses the rear wheels aren't spinning or spinning fast enough and caps the max MPH to 30. We had to mess with the fuse box to disable the VSA/ABS sensors but it was a PITA to figure out. After re-seating a fuse block(i think that is what is called) it disabled all of the brake system/VSA/ABS sensors so we could go over 30 mph. That took the most time to figure out.

So far I believe it is worth it. I haven't really pushed it yet because it is snowing like crazy right now up here.

Thanks for Shane @ DB Performance.

 

[Accordian]

Thanks for posting up the dyno charts of your tune! I don't think this would ever be something I do simply because of the other changes you have to make to accommodate the tune, but all the power to those who want to squeeze a bit more out of their Accords. Huge difference compared to the stock tune and you get more power/torque at low RPMs.

Since you have to disable the brake system/VSA/ABS sensors, does that mean those systems no longer work?

 

[RagerX]

Thanks for posting up the dyno charts of your tune! I don't think this would ever be something I do simply because of the other changes you have to make to accommodate the tune, but all the power to those who want to squeeze a bit more out of their Accords. Huge difference compared to the stock tune and you get more power/torque at low RPMs.

Since you have to disable the brake system/VSA/ABS sensors, does that mean those systems no longer work?

We just re-seated the fuses and that reset most of the sensors to off during the pulls. I was a little worried but once I got off the parking lot, all the brake system and VSA/ABS kicked back on with no issues.


Me and the tuner did some research and found out that the 2017 Civic had to do something similar with the VSA/ABS system and fuses to get it working on the dyno accurately.

 

[Scotty]

Wow those gains are pretty incredible, thanks for sharing the dyno results. I think you might be one of the first members on here to have their Accord all tuned. You'll have to let us know how differently it drives, once the weather improves. How much did the tune cost you, everything installed and configured?

 

[RagerX]

Wow those gains are pretty incredible, thanks for sharing the dyno results. I think you might be one of the first members on here to have their Accord all tuned. You'll have to let us know how differently it drives, once the weather improves. How much did the tune cost you, everything installed and configured?

Cost was $325 for the Hondata License and upload of the calibration. Additional $100 for before and after dyno pulls. With tax it comes close to $440 OTD.


It was really worth it for me. I sold my 06-11 Civic Si FlashPro for $530 and use that to cover this expense and still have some left over.


I was also able to make some quick pulls today from 0-100 and 20-100. And the difference is night and day. It just keeps pulling, pulling, and pulling faster never stops. It is so quick that it meets beyond my expectation as daily driver.

 

[Scotty]

Wow that's certainly an affordable aftermarket upgrade. I'm pretty sure from what I've seen about the Hondata tune for the Accord is that it even surpasses the torque offering in the Civic Type R. Looks like Honda has made quite the little sleeper in their new model. Have you done anything else to the Accord besides the new tune?

 

[RagerX]

Wow that's certainly an affordable aftermarket upgrade. I'm pretty sure from what I've seen about the Hondata tune for the Accord is that it even surpasses the torque offering in the Civic Type R. Looks like Honda has made quite the little sleeper in their new model. Have you done anything else to the Accord besides the new tune?

Just the Stage 3. Completely stock. I haven't even gone through custom fine tuning where the tuner can actually try to squeeze a little more out of it. But they told me that would be additional $300 for the custom tune. It completely surpasses the CTR stock torque numbers.


So far still having a blast with it. It so fun :grin:.

 

[BoostedAccord]

Now all we need for these engines are better air and fuel system to further push what a tune can do and in addition to that make these sound better. Although its far out of my budget for now I would like to see some crazy headers for the CTR.

 

[Scotty]

I think for what you've already gained through the Stage 3 tune, that further enhancements should be made with aftermarket parts. Not sure how hard you'll want to risk pushing performance, without making any upgrades to the stock components. Never thought we'd see the CTR being outperformed in any aspect by the new Accord.

 

[RagerX]

I think for what you've already gained through the Stage 3 tune, that further enhancements should be made with aftermarket parts. Not sure how hard you'll want to risk pushing performance, without making any upgrades to the stock components. Never thought we'd see the CTR being outperformed in any aspect by the new Accord.

Yes, according to Hondata. Stage 3 is already maxing the turbo at its limit. If I ever need to upgrade more. It would be a bigger turbo and a downpipe. But for now, this power is plenty for me. Let see how desperate I can get over time :devil:.

 

[Scotty]

Lol. Well I think down the line all you'd really need to consider changing is the exhaust and intake. Did they mention possibly putting in better quality spark plugs or anything? I've seen some tunes require this before in an effort to protect the engine.

 

[RagerX]

Lol. Well I think down the line all you'd really need to consider changing is the exhaust and intake. Did they mention possibly putting in better quality spark plugs or anything? I've seen some tunes require this before in an effort to protect the engine.

Not that I know of. I am basing off of what Hondata stated to be the limit without being too hard on the engine and still be reliable. I could have done a custom tuning but that additional cost so the tuner can actually take a look into what needs to be checked out.

 

[BoostedAccord]

Although a bit extreme of a move for someone to make with the accord, I would be curious to hear what some aftermarket headers would do, even with performance.

 

[RagerX]

Although a bit extreme of a move for someone to make with the accord, I would be curious to hear what some aftermarket headers would do, even with performance.

Yes it's a bit extreme just purchasing a vehicle and a month down just throwing on a tune. But Hondas are reliable engines. With a Hondata base tune, It shouldn't be a problem. I have zero worries and pretty confident for a conservative tune. I probably won't go for any aftermarket performance parts down the line. I'll more than likely spend another $350 to fine tune the car to make sure it isn't knocking or running to lean. But I am for sure with a downpipe this thing will make easily 15-20whp more with a tune.

 

[Scotty]

Are you planning on upgrading to an aftermarket clutch? You may find that the additional power from the tune may wear through the factory set up much more quickly than normal. Guess you'll only be able to determine that after putting some mileage on the car.

 

[RagerX]

Are you planning on upgrading to an aftermarket clutch? You may find that the additional power from the tune may wear through the factory set up much more quickly than normal. Guess you'll only be able to determine that after putting some mileage on the car.

Stock clutch seems to be fine for now. I wouldn't worry too much about it. We will see how long it lasts with a stage 3.

 

[DTXboost]

How often do you turn on scramble?

 

[RagerX]

How often do you turn on scramble?

I rarely use it. I only use it if I want to test it. Doesn't "feel" anymore different than without it.

 

[DTXboost]

When you push the scramble button and go WOT you should definitely feel a difference. A rolling 3rd or even 4th gear pull should spin the tires.

The stage 3 is plus 3 psi and plus 9 with scramble.

I started on stage 3 also.

Stage 2 is what I run. Plus 6 psi all the time. No power surge under low acceleration.

Your basically running stage 1 without the scramble on.

With stage 2 you can stock on eco mode and plus 6 when on normal mode.

I have a flash pro so I can switch around and the difference is night and day.

 

[RagerX]

When you push the scramble button and go WOT you should definitely feel a difference. A rolling 3rd or even 4th gear pull should spin the tires.

The stage 3 is plus 3 psi and plus 9 with scramble.

I started on stage 3 also.

Stage 2 is what I run. Plus 6 psi all the time. No power surge under low acceleration.

Your basically running stage 1 without the scramble on.

With stage 2 you can stock on eco mode and plus 6 when on normal mode.

I have a flash pro so I can switch around and the difference is night and day.

Definitely don't feel any different for me. Drove 30+ miles today and tested WOT comparing with on and off. Maybe a little more sound. Plus trying to not use scrambler a lot since Hondata stated not to use it a lot. Maybe I'll use it when I am racing someone but that is like once in a blue moon.