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Hey all so I have some questions maybe some of you can answer.

I have the exl ten speaker system and like many of you disappointed in it although I shouldn't be surprised. I have torn the car apart looking at the system and found that the sub is a free air sub in the rear deck. I thought about replacing it with a pioneer free air but after hearing it in a friends Toyota I was equally unimpressed.

So the route I have decided to go is to take an older image dynamics 10 inch sub I have and add it to my system and then drop the sub completely from the rear deck allowing the air waves to help pass through and thus also helping eliminate Hondas notorious slap deck with it.

I will also be changing the speakers and possibly going to audio frog set up or jbl stadium series or even Infiniti kappa.

I will do components up front and then just coax in the rear.

Now the hard part of doing this though and why I'm hesitant is the factory amp. I have a few questions and if I'm wrong in any of this please help me.

The amp appears to be a standard 4x55 setup

So from looking it appears the software that controls a lot of android auto (example when you are doing maps and it quiets the speakers and plays the directions out the center channel) am I correct in saying this?

Now I know replacing it in other vehicles has android auto just revert and play over all speakers instead of separating to the center channel I just hope this isn't the case but I may be willing to pay the price.

Now has anyone ever added a signal processor to their system? I know little to nothing about them and looking for help. Should I take the Rockford dsr1 route and just get a nice alpine amp or should I go with a jl amp that has a signal processor incorporated into it?

Sorry if I'm all over the place I'm at work and typing this while trying to work.
 

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Hey all so I have some questions maybe some of you can answer.

I have the exl ten speaker system and like many of you disappointed in it although I shouldn't be surprised. I have torn the car apart looking at the system and found that the sub is a free air sub in the rear deck. I thought about replacing it with a pioneer free air but after hearing it in a friends Toyota I was equally unimpressed.

So the route I have decided to go is to take an older image dynamics 10 inch sub I have and add it to my system and then drop the sub completely from the rear deck allowing the air waves to help pass through and thus also helping eliminate Hondas notorious slap deck with it.

I will also be changing the speakers and possibly going to audio frog set up or jbl stadium series or even Infiniti kappa.

I will do components up front and then just coax in the rear.

Now the hard part of doing this though and why I'm hesitant is the factory amp. I have a few questions and if I'm wrong in any of this please help me.

The amp appears to be a standard 4x55 setup

So from looking it appears the software that controls a lot of android auto (example when you are doing maps and it quiets the speakers and plays the directions out the center channel) am I correct in saying this?

Now I know replacing it in other vehicles has android auto just revert and play over all speakers instead of separating to the center channel I just hope this isn't the case but I may be willing to pay the price.

Now has anyone ever added a signal processor to their system? I know little to nothing about them and looking for help. Should I take the Rockford dsr1 route and just get a nice alpine amp or should I go with a jl amp that has a signal processor incorporated into it?

Sorry if I'm all over the place I'm at work and typing this while trying to work.
I'm not sure about how the audio switching takes place, so can't comment there.

As for the signal processing question, I would go the JL route (surprise, surprise).
 

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Here's an idea I'm thinking through for improved sound in an 8 speaker Sport 2.0T to keep things super simple, cheap, and looking stock.

1) Since the tweeters in the front are well-positioned (and no one thinks there's a treble issue), leave the stock tweeters.
2) Since the Sport doesn't have a sub, the headunit is passing the full lower end of the signal to the doors and deck.

As such, I'm thinking of ditching the stock door and deck speakers and picking up Kicker 43CSC674s, which have good ratings, a cheap price, relatively low frequency response (40 Hz), and reasonably highest sensitivity (90 dB). That they are coaxial won't matter as I'm keeping the stock set-up (worst case is that the tweeters on the Kickers won't do much).

That's a change that could be well under $200 even with adapters and brackets.
 

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Here's an idea I'm thinking through for improved sound in an 8 speaker Sport 2.0T to keep things super simple, cheap, and looking stock.

1) Since the tweeters in the front are well-positioned (and no one thinks there's a treble issue), leave the stock tweeters.
2) Since the Sport doesn't have a sub, the headunit is passing the full lower end of the signal to the doors and deck.

As such, I'm thinking of ditching the stock door and deck speakers and picking up Kicker 43CSC674s, which have good ratings, a cheap price, relatively low frequency response (40 Hz), and reasonably highest sensitivity (90 dB). That they are coaxial won't matter as I'm keeping the stock set-up (worst case is that the tweeters on the Kickers won't do much).

That's a change that could be well under $200 even with adapters and brackets.
Tarheelz where are you located? I moved down to Durham from the Midwest recently my wife's going to Duke I'd be willing to help if you are in the area.

If you're looking to add a sub it's really easy to on the sport model I've been watching YouTube videos it's just a matter of mainly making sure the anc is unplugged and wiring in the rest.

As far as the speakers the tweeters on the kicker most likely will not pick up anything assuming you have an amp in your model (sorry not familiar I have the 10 speaker) but in the amp is where it digitally processes the information and what signals to send where.

Also I have the schematics on how to take apart to get to the speakers if you would like them.
 

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So what I'm thinking of doing for now is because I have the ten speaker system is buying a speaker adapter and then hooking in my image dynamics sub I have from a previous set up straight into my stock system and then drop the 8 inch from the deck. I have read others doing this and saying that they get plenty of power to their sub just to make sure you unplugged the anc I will try this weekend and let you know.

My goal is to eventually replace all speakers and get a new processor and amp but I was looking in the $1500 range so I may try this for now.
 

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Tarheelz where are you located? I moved down to Durham from the Midwest recently my wife's going to Duke I'd be willing to help if you are in the area.

If you're looking to add a sub it's really easy to on the sport model I've been watching YouTube videos it's just a matter of mainly making sure the anc is unplugged and wiring in the rest.

As far as the speakers the tweeters on the kicker most likely will not pick up anything assuming you have an amp in your model (sorry not familiar I have the 10 speaker) but in the amp is where it digitally processes the information and what signals to send where.

Also I have the schematics on how to take apart to get to the speakers if you would like them.
There's no sub in the Sport. That's why I suspect that Honda is trying to get the stock speakers to do all they can. If there's an active crossover (I doubt it) it will be for the high end. However, even if the tweeters on the coax do nothing, it doesn't matter as the coaxial speakers tend to have lower frequency response numbers than do the components.

If this idea doesn't work, I'll probably do the powered sub option (either under the passenger seat or between the two rear-deck speakers). I'm waiting to hear how folks end up liking the powered sub under the deck. (It seems like it might not worked well given the cavernous space in the trunk.)

PS - In my Pilot, I lost the stock subwoofer when I replaced the headunit. Fortunately, the Kenwood speakers I put in (freq response 35hz) did an admirable job of filling the low end appropriately for a family car.
 

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Adding powered sub woofer..

Welcome to the forum! $2600 is definitely excessive. Maybe if you can find out the speaker sizes, you can order some cheaper ones yourself and pay them to install it for you?[/QUOTEted

look into adding a powered sub woofer, major problem with Accord Audio system I felt is.. zero punch in bass,, so i think a powered Bass tube or Sub can enhance sound quality in less money.
 

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I have the same concern, looking for decent deep bass in my Accord 2018...any suggestions?? or anyone has done something? adding just a sub with amp would be good idea?
 

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So did the OP keep this car longer than 34 days? Cars are not concert halls, no matter how much one may want them to be. I'm sure there's some difference but I suspect there's a fair amount of psychological influence as well.
 

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I added a pretty easy solution into my 18' 2.0T Sport. Ran power from the battery to the trunk (through the firewall, down the driver's side of the car under all of the plastic paneling *paneling removes insanely easy, typical Honda clips*). I tapped my LOC into the front driver's side speaker, and then ran that through all of the factory weather stripping/grommets and then back to the trunk. I also ran a remote with an "add a fuse," but later noticed my LOC switched on my amplifier with or without the Remote wire attached. I then turned the amp off, adjusted the factory bass/treble levels to my liking, then turned the amp on and started adjusting to my preference. Finally, I ran an Alpine Remote Bass Knob within fingers reach of the drivers seat so I can adjust sub output without modifying the "bass (speakers)" level within the factory headunit. I had a plethora of rattles that I have resolved via foam, lining, etc. I have not installed any sound deadening material, but will in the future for personal preference. I secured the amp to the box (couldn't detect any feedback), the box to the trunk mat via velcro, and hid everything else via factory locations. Lastly, I disconnected the ANC (3 minutes).

Only issue I have is that upon shutdown, I get a slight pop/crack in the sub. If anyone has any ideas on how to keep my RCA lines hot longer than my amp, I'm all ears (haven't looked into it much yet).

As with my 2016 EX-L V6, the addition of the 12" sub in a box actually makes the system "listenable." As you all know, prior to this addition, the stereo was flat, unresponsive, and lacking largely in the low frequency range. Now the system is responsive and beats as much as I want it too. The addition of the bass knob makes it a breeze to adjust bass response on the fly (kids get in car, neighborhood late, different soung stage songs come on, etc) without the need to go through the UI and adjust not only the sub, but the speakers bass output simultaneously too.

I'm going to build a wedge box for the trunk space eventually, but am happy with the results thus far.

Stop over thinking it, guys/girls. Add a sub, start enjoying your music, and then upgrade/tweak over time. 90% of listeners will be satisfied with spending a few hours and installing an amp/sub into their car(s). Remember, this is a Honda. Everything comes apart insanely easy. This is not hard to do, just take your time and do it in stages, something like: Day1: run power/remote. Day2: Run LOC/Install Day3: Tune to your preference.

If you have any questions or want any other pics, feel free to ask.
 

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This sounds pretty straight forward. I think I could pull it off.

It has been about 20 years since I messed around with car audio install so forgive my possibly naive question, but I recall that if you ran two speakers together you would change the impedence which could either halve or double the power hitting the speakers. Is that not an issue with an LOC? Is the impedence running to the left driver side speaker unchanged?
 

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I used the rear deck speakers, left and right for balance. My Loc used a left pair, right pair, 12v Acc, and ground. That way it’s auto on/off with the automobile. Personally, IMO, I wouldn’t run just the left drivers door, my Loc is located in the trunk so I don’t have but 3’ of remote wire.
 

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I used the rear deck speakers, left and right for balance. My Loc used a left pair, right pair, 12v Acc, and ground. That way it’s auto on/off with the automobile. Personally, IMO, I wouldn’t run just the left drivers door, my Loc is located in the trunk so I don’t have but 3’ of remote wire.
Now run your LOC to the front speaker(s) and notice the difference in sound quality/bass output. I tested both front and rear channels (obviously rear because of how much easier it is than going to the front) and the results were drastically different. The rear channels just don't get the same lows, as others have also mentioned, as the front channels do. It's preferred to tap both L/R channels, but I didn't want to tap into the main harness itself, or run a tap to each side of the car (maybe in the future). This is the same technique I used on my 16, and have had nothing short of positive results.
 

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Dear All Who Have Actually Tested This:

1) Can someone confirm that the signal to the Fronts is full range while the Rears do not receive a full bass signal? (I had been guessing that if there was a difference at all, it would be the Rears that received the bass.)

If true, that's a bit of hassle (easier to take high levels off the deck rather than the doors) but is a critical piece of information for the 2018 Accord Knowledge Bank.

2) Has anyone yet published a guide to accessing the back of the HU in the '18 Accord? Personally, I'd much prefer to grab signal from FL and FR at that location if true that the Fronts are the ones to tap.
 

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Ugotworked is correct! I had my Loc tapped into the rear deck speakers and it just wasn’t great enough quality. Yesterday I removed it from the rear to the drivers Front left speaker and I’m absolutely impressed with the outcome. A big thanks to those contributing in this forum! If I can be of any assistance to anyone else please let me know!
 

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I added a pretty easy solution into my 18' 2.0T Sport. Ran power from the battery to the trunk (through the firewall, down the driver's side of the car under all of the plastic paneling *paneling removes insanely easy, typical Honda clips*). I tapped my LOC into the front driver's side speaker, and then ran that through all of the factory weather stripping/grommets and then back to the trunk. I also ran a remote with an "add a fuse," but later noticed my LOC switched on my amplifier with or without the Remote wire attached. I then turned the amp off, adjusted the factory bass/treble levels to my liking, then turned the amp on and started adjusting to my preference. Finally, I ran an Alpine Remote Bass Knob within fingers reach of the drivers seat so I can adjust sub output without modifying the "bass (speakers)" level within the factory headunit. I had a plethora of rattles that I have resolved via foam, lining, etc. I have not installed any sound deadening material, but will in the future for personal preference. I secured the amp to the box (couldn't detect any feedback), the box to the trunk mat via velcro, and hid everything else via factory locations. Lastly, I disconnected the ANC (3 minutes). .....

If you have any questions or want any other pics, feel free to ask.

When you tapped your LOC into the front driver's side speaker, can you tell me where exactly the wires were tapped ? Was it from the back of the head unit or was it at the door? Thanks!
 
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