2018 Honda Accord Forum banner

1 - 15 of 15 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
26 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
i cant help but think there has to be a way to just drop a better quality woofer in place of the stock sub and just use some type of aftermarket connector to plug right in? anyone have any idea? the sub gets plenty of power in relation to the rest of the speakers and the system isnt that awful. the main issue is the low end bass response and that would easily be fixed with a better quality sub. if anyone knows if this is possible let me know please.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
70 Posts
Absolutely! I ran the following for a few days and the improvement was certainly worth the extra $100. It allowed me to turn up the Sub setting on the radio to max as well, with no bad side effect. HAS TO BE WIRED 2 OHMS

and

I added an amp later as I had one already but only because I was upgrading other speakers too.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
70 Posts
Was the kicker a direct drop in, aside from the wiring harness adapter?
No! But there is also no drop-in solution out here as the bolt pattern is uncommon on the stock sub. Also the opening requires a little bending with a pair of pliers.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
No! But there is also no drop-in solution out here as the bolt pattern is uncommon on the stock sub. Also the opening requires a little bending with a pair of pliers.
can you elaborate on:

1) how much of a difference did the kicker make in comparison to the stock sub?

2) how much fab was needed to make the kicker work? How long did the whole install take?

im in the position to just replace the sub for $100 if it’s worth it...but not ready to do the full stereo system atm

tia
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
can you elaborate on:

1) how much of a difference did the kicker make in comparison to the stock sub?

2) how much fab was needed to make the kicker work? How long did the whole install take?

im in the position to just replace the sub for $100 if it’s worth it...but not ready to do the full stereo system atm

tia
New sub came in today, so at least if nobody else has anything to report I'll let you know how it goes by this weekend

5264
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
70 Posts
can you elaborate on:

1) how much of a difference did the kicker make in comparison to the stock sub?

2) how much fab was needed to make the kicker work? How long did the whole install take?

im in the position to just replace the sub for $100 if it’s worth it...but not ready to do the full stereo system atm

tia
1) there was a noticeable improvement in the bass. I could actually feel a little of the bass in the car. My stock sub was virtually non existent.

2) there is at least 1-2 hours of work. Biggest part is the removal/instal of the rear seats and panels. For the sub installation itself you will need a pair of pliers, cordless drill, a thin drill bit (for pilot), 4 self taping metal screws and a 90 degree power drill bit adapter. Last one makes The process a lot easier (proximity to the window) but it’s not necessary.

Because Honda speakers have a non-round shape on the back, you will need to bend two metal tabs in order to fit thenew sub in. It’s soft and easy to modify. Hence the pliers.

To me it was worth the change. There are also threads online of people who only did this upgrade (with Kicker sub) search it up I have deleted the links since finishing the install. If you don’t find it here look at driveaccord.net.

As always, it’s hard to quantify sound so your results may wary. 😏
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
1) there was a noticeable improvement in the bass. I could actually feel a little of the bass in the car. My stock sub was virtually non existent.

2) there is at least 1-2 hours of work. Biggest part is the removal/instal of the rear seats and panels. For the sub installation itself you will need a pair of pliers, cordless drill, a thin drill bit (for pilot), 4 self taping metal screws and a 90 degree power drill bit adapter. Last one makes The process a lot easier (proximity to the window) but it’s not necessary.

Because Honda speakers have a non-round shape on the back, you will need to bend two metal tabs in order to fit thenew sub in. It’s soft and easy to modify. Hence the pliers.

To me it was worth the change. There are also threads online of people who only did this upgrade (with Kicker sub) search it up I have deleted the links since finishing the install. If you don’t find it here look at driveaccord.net.

As always, it’s hard to quantify sound so your results may wary. 😏
Thanks for clarifying, that was very helpful 👍🏻
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Just got done with mine, decided I couldn't wait until the weekend. In short, I'm thrilled with it! Keeping in mind that it's only an 8" sub, low ended notes are a bit lacking but it is overall much better than the factory sub... It has a little bit of thump to it and like others have said, it is a much more well rounded sound.

Get ready though, you have to take every piece of trim out of the back half of the car. Here's a link to the instructions Crutchfield provided, in case anyone is interested
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Just got done with mine, decided I couldn't wait until the weekend. In short, I'm thrilled with it! Keeping in mind that it's only an 8" sub, low ended notes are a bit lacking but it is overall much better than the factory sub... It has a little bit of thump to it and like others have said, it is a much more well rounded sound.

Get ready though, you have to take every piece of trim out of the back half of the car. Here's a link to the instructions Crutchfield provided, in case anyone is interested
how long did it take you? Can you confirm what Sally^ said?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Yup he's spot on. It took me about 3.5 hours, but I had 2 toddler "helpers" so they slowed me down lol.

The hardest part for me was getting the plastic bolt/rivet thing behind the SRS Airbag cover out. I ended up just forcing it out with a metal panel popper tool, which bent the hole it was in outwards. I tapped the metal back flat with a hammer before I put everything back together.

Bending the metal to allow the speaker to drop in was super easy.

Idk how you'd be able to screw it down without the 90° drill that Sally mentioned above, there is certainly not room to get a drill above the rear deck
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
70 Posts
Idk how you'd be able to screw it down without the 90° drill that Sally
how long did it take you? Can you confirm what Sally^ said?
who is Sally 🤨

the side bolt/rivet does not have to be removed. Pop the white layer on top of it and the bolt will become loose but not out. That will be enough to slide the panel up against the roof liner and remove it that way. You will have to press against the liner, it’s stronger than it looks but still be careful.

I think that is a one time use bolt. So if it’s out you may have to go to the stealership and buy a new one.
Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18 Show Content
5267
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
who is Sally 🤨
Whoops.. just went with what jninja said, didn't scroll back up to see what your username was

It probably is intended to be one time use, but if you do remove it the white part can be taken out so that it can be locked back into place
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
70 Posts
Whoops.. just went with what jninja said, didn't scroll back up to see what your username was

It probably is intended to be one time use, but if you do remove it the white part can be taken out so that it can be locked back into place
possibly! I didn’t want to take the chance and it worked out well.

I was just kidding about the name. It was a good chuckle for Friday morning. 😂
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Top