High guys. I have a 2021 2.0T that I will be getting tuned next week. Didnt like the ktune stage 2 as I didnt really notice all that much of a difference. The area I live in doesnt have a E85 within 120miles. Everyome says to run 1-1.5 gallons in a tank of gas but all we have here is E15. Would E15 be beneficial or should I just stick to 93 here? Only modifications are audio upgrades due to how terrible stock audio is and a intercooler.
Using quality gas for knock con?
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If you didn't feel a difference between Ktuner Stage 2 and stock (which sounds like maybe the ECU didn't take the reflash or something else went wrong - I have never heard of anyone else not feeling a difference before, with Ktuner or Hondata) you also might not feel a difference between 93 and adding 1-1.5 gallons of E15 (I'm reading that some fuel suppliers already add up to E10 worth in their fuel).
Was thinking the same thing. I could definitely feel the difference between stock and Stage 2. With my old Hondata and my KTuner. Stage 3 definitely notice it. Most fuel seems to have 10% ethanol.
1954 ~ 1 Ton - Dual Truck with Lift Option & 19.5" Wheels & Bigger Brakes
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Hot Weather is Here , so E15 has been Served up in States where the Gasoline - Ran Low do to Hack . . & Crash
Tx Froze , what's Next - someone Left the Back Door Open and Thieves took the Pipes , LOL
Oil see Writing on Wall
Tx Froze , what's Next - someone Left the Back Door Open and Thieves took the Pipes , LOL
Oil see Writing on Wall
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All fuel is quality fuel unless your making it in your backyard. "TOP TIER" is a myth. All fuels are made to minimum standards. All fuel is E10-E15 in the US as mandated by the EPA to use renewable fuel sources for a portion. It changes from winter to summer months. This has been discussed before ad nauseum here and just about every forum. I grew up the fuel industry. You may get a bad batch here and there. But for they are all top tire. You may notice certain brands in your area perform better to knock three are several reasons for this. All fuel comes into the terminal in your area without any additive or anything. Each company takes their fuel from the main pipe and then puts their package of additives and detergents in. Those values of each chemical can vary a certain % based on the msds sheets. Maybe the chemist who mixes at the fuel terminal in your area for the brand you like, uses a little more of this ingredient vs that which makes it more knock resistant. Maybe that state mandates you can use more of that chemical. Even the unbranded guy is still buying a top tier fuel, its just not from the same company every time.
At any rate something is definitely wrong if you see no difference. A lot of times after a flash if you had any loose boost clamps ect those can pop off ect because of the new higher pressure if the clamp was loose.
At any rate something is definitely wrong if you see no difference. A lot of times after a flash if you had any loose boost clamps ect those can pop off ect because of the new higher pressure if the clamp was loose.
Sound advice to check clamps. I also recently reflashed mine with some changes to quick settings and the ecu dropped into recovery mode. I reflashed again and it said the tune took but it reverted to factory. So it's possible it said you flashed successfully, but that flash was a recovery of the factory tune as there was a communication failure during your upload of the stage 2 tune. Just something for the OP to consider from my personal experience.
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IF that does not work from my understanding your ktuner has the ability to log requested vs actual boost. Take the car and put it in manual mode if there is one ( just make sure to keep it in gear and dont let the car shift). Get to about 2k rpms or so in 3rd maybe fourth gear, and floor it slowly, again making sure not to hit the shift down and keep it in gear. take it to or close to redline. Use an empty area or frwy onramp because you will be going pretty fast. Your req vs actual boost should be pretty close. If your requested is still like ~20something psi but actual is way low, you have a boost leak (in this instance but it could be a bad sensor but would see another code or something in the ecu pointing to the bad sensor). One of these guys can help with how to do that on ktuner (all my experience is doing this with VW VAGCOM tool but the principals are identical).
Side question: Can you buy a ktuner without a flash just for logging purposes? Does ktuner have log recording capabilities?
Ktuner comes preloaded with tunes across several platforms and drivetrains. They don't offer just a logging device. You could purchase the V1.2 (cheaper than the V2) and pair it with an android device through bluetooth and run the Tunerview app. Or consequently buy the V2 with the screen/logger for another $150 additional.
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