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Installed a Mishimoto catch can with drain kit (yellow arrow points to drain valve - 90 horizontal (perpendicular to hose) for closed, straight down (inline with hose) for open).



A few thoughts - open unboxing, I half-heartedly tried to unscrew the body of the catch can just to look inside but it wouldn't turn by hand at all so I said forget it. Most of the kit seems really well made. Couple of concerns for longevity - the drain fitting is plastic (the upper hose fittings are metal) and the inline drain valve is also all plastic. The drain fitting is pretty long and protrudes up well past the bottom of the catch when screwed in so I trimmed/shortened the threads (if not, there would always be a significant amount of stuff in the bottom of the catch can that wouldn't drain). Next time I take it apart, I will probably try replacing the 3 top mounting allen head bolts with larger head versions.
another thought - the upper hoses are connected by spring hose clamps but the drain hoses (drain fitting hose and both sides of the drain valve) are all connected by screw on hose clamps - at some point, I will probably go back and replace the very bottom clamp with a spring clamp so that, should I decide to unscrew and remove the bottom of the catch can, I can easily unplug the bottom hose first (the bottom hose is pretty much routed/zip tied in place and won't rotate easily at all).
 

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I thought about it a little today and although I've never named any of my previous vehicles, I think I'm gonna call this one Buddy (which is my go to name when I'm talking to any strange dogs that I don't know their name and don't want them to bite me lol) - so "man's best friend" and all...

Anyway Buddy got some new shoes today at America's Tire - Continental Extreme Contact DWS 06 - 255/45-18s. (and a couple of days ago, I had a friend of a friend replace the rear sway bar with a Progress model)

 

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Installed a Mishimoto catch can with drain kit (yellow arrow points to drain valve - 90 horizontal (perpendicular to hose) for closed, straight down (inline with hose) for open).



A few thoughts - open unboxing, I half-heartedly tried to unscrew the body of the catch can just to look inside but it wouldn't turn by hand at all so I said forget it. Most of the kit seems really well made. Couple of concerns for longevity - the drain fitting is plastic (the upper hose fittings are metal) and the inline drain valve is also all plastic. The drain fitting is pretty long and protrudes up well past the bottom of the catch when screwed in so I trimmed/shortened the threads (if not, there would always be a significant amount of stuff in the bottom of the catch can that wouldn't drain). Next time I take it apart, I will probably try replacing the 3 top mounting allen head bolts with larger head versions.
Can you educate me on the purpose of that can?
 

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Thank you much. Like you, this is my first direct injection engine so I wasn't much aware of this issue. Once one thinks about it for a minute it makes sense.

A few questions come to mind.

Since gasoline is one of the by products that flow out of the crankcase and gets recycled through the intake manifold, and since gasoline is a solvent, won't the carbon deposits problem solve itself or at least stay under control?

And if one uses a catch can, what's a reasonable drain frequency?
 

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Cars nowadays have a built oil separator that lets the engine burn that stuff off automatically. When you install a catch can you are bypassing the stock system for something that can now cause issues, and requires maintenance. If you live in colder climates the lines can freeze and cause starting and running issues. Save your money and use a decarb like Seafoam, BG, ect directly into the intake system,(there are videos online), every six months. The way a direct injection system works, you will still get valve buildup even with a catch can. If you look at some of the MKV VW forums there is tons of info and documentation on the forums here is one of them.
Also of note he's using a vta or vent to atmosphere can which creates a lovely mess of oil in the engine bay. The systems you guys have here are recirculating ones
 

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Cars nowadays have a built oil separator that lets the engine burn that stuff off automatically. When you install a catch can you are bypassing the stock system for something that can now cause issues, and requires maintenance. If you live in colder climates the lines can freeze and cause starting and running issues. Save your money and use a decarb like Seafoam, BG, ect directly into the intake system,(there are videos online), every six months. The way a direct injection system works, you will still get valve buildup even with a catch can. If you look at some of the MKV VW forums there is tons of info and documentation on the forums here is one of them.
Also of note he's using a vta or vent to atmosphere can which creates a lovely mess of oil in the engine bay. The systems you guys have here are recirculating ones
Thanks for the education. Having worked very closely with Honda Transmission Manufacturing in Russells Point on their OEM transmission reman program about 10 years ago, I learned that their engineers hardly every get things wrong and that most aftermarket "solutions" are developed by people who don't really have a full understanding of what they're dealing with.

I think I'm going to save my money and put it towards more bullets, primers, and powder. Being a USPSA competitor sure burns that stuff up in a hurry.
 

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I've read about higher end (read: more costly) performance vehicles have more advanced recirculating systems that negate the need or benefits of aftermarket catch cans but I don't remember reading that our 10th gens have anything like that?

As far as "results" - our mileage will absolutely vary! The article linked by VH describing negligible positive effects of a catch can is from a sample of one and is for a vehicle (VW) that isn't ours. The study referenced in the second Engineering Explained video from about 3:00-6:00 which described significant positive effects of eliminating recirculated blow by is also from a sample of one and is also for a vehicle (Pontiac) that isn't ours.

And from reading/watching, we know that recirculated ventilation is only one causal factor for carbon buildup - eliminating that entirely still won't prevent carbon from building up. IMO, I think it will help and it's worth what I spent on it in time and $ - again, YMMV!

As far as how often to check a catch can, from what I've read, it all depends (e.g. your individual vehicle, your driving habits, the size of your catch can, etc). I'm gonna start out checking at 500 miles and then 1000 and then go from there.

As far as engineers hardly ever getting anything wrong - well, IMO yes and no. Like in every other field, you're gonna have awesome examples and way substandard examples and just because someone works for a particular company, that in itself doesn't guarantee he/she is awesome. Let's say someone is awesome - sometimes there are outside factors influencing their final work product (e.g. someone much less awesome with a huge ego who is higher ranking and demands it to be different, materials science constraints, rules/regulations requirements (e.g. smog/emissions, racing regulations), COST/PROFIT margins, purpose(s) for the design, ETC). Sometimes things are borrowed from something else completely different to save time/money. Sometimes things are designed strictly for looks or to fit into a certain spaces. Sometimes things are designed for the lowest common denominator user/owner (who don't know anything about the product and who will never work on the product themselves and who will never know the difference) - e.g. how many times have you or your mechanic worked on something that was a royal PITA and said if I ever meet the guy who designed this, I'm gonna punch him in the throat (or felt that way)? Sometimes things are designed for fuel efficiency and not for optimal performance - sometimes things are designed for optimal performance and not longevity (or vice versa). The rationale or reasons behind some decisions or designs isn't always what we as a group or we as individuals are thinking, looking for, or prioritizing.

As far as bullets, primers, and powder goes - ain't nothing wrong with getting some carbon buildup from a little bit/lot of trigger time... ;)
 

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So when you hook the catch can up you are hooking it into the pcv system which separates the air and gasses and releases them back into the intake to be burned off. They have been in use for a long time. What a catch can does is capture it instead of burning it off. Unless your racing the vehicle on the track on the weekends my personal opinion is that they are a waste and add complexity for no reason. But again that's my personal belief.
 

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Well, at least you don't have to worry about fouling as much, with your port injectors, lucky dog! :D
 

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For informational purposes...
 
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Anyone heard of or had experience w/this...

I have had/used there products on motorcycles in the past to clean the valves.
 

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The problem with direct injection is that due to where the fuel is being injected, the valves don't get as hot, hence the carbon buildup. So the same applies to the BG, and similar products. Now it will help, but it's better as a preventative on a schedule, say every 5k miles vs a one time system clean as on a non di engine. The earlier you start the better.
 

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Installed the long awaited Car Qi carqiwireless[dot}com wireless charger that perfectly fits the 2018-20 Accords. I ordered it just as this virus started.

Now I have three USB ports. It doesn't fit the LX console rear pocket so I will find a solution such as tapping into the console power port or just running long Phone charger wires to the back through the console.

They include a handy spudger. Just remove the OEM liner and slip it in. No hammers no nonsense. Thanks Honda Jon.
4542
 

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Installed the long awaited Car Qi carqiwireless[dot}com wireless charger that perfectly fits the 2018-20 Accords. I ordered it just as this virus started.

Now I have three USB ports. It doesn't fit the back of the LX console pocket so I will find a solution such as tapping into the console power port or just running long Phone charger wires to the back through the console.

They include a handy spudger. Just remove the OEM liner and slip it in. No hammers no nonsense. Thanks Honda Jon.
View attachment 4542
I have been looking at this since getting my car a few months ago. What do you mean it does not fit the back console pocket?
 

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Center console’s rear pocket.
 

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Well it's designed for the front so yeah that makes sense. It sorta seemed like you were saying it does not fit all the way to the back of the front console no proper.
 

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Looking to add a catback exhaust just to give it a little more sound. Not looking to wake the neighborhood, nor be embarrassed every time I start it. I’ll use this forum and read up on what other have done and plan on doing.
 

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Looking to add a catback exhaust just to give it a little more sound. Not looking to wake the neighborhood, nor be embarrassed every time I start it. I’ll use this forum and read up on what other have done and plan on doing.
Just do a muffler delete on both sides but leave the center resonator in place.

Plenty of videos on youtube of cars in that configuration so you can hear the exhaust note.

Removing both the mufflers and the resonator seems to make the note too buzzy.
 
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