[BuickNut]

So what oil do you use and why?

 

[TheAsian]

I wouldn't go to a higher weight oil. Newer engines have very tight tolerances. Running a higher weight oil when could may not have the proper Mass follow rate to properly lubricate your engine through those passageways. This can lead to increase wear and possible damage.

 

[BuickNut]

I was just curious about the guys that flog the **** out of their cars. Do they use anything different?

 

[Fired00d]

Using the factory recommended viscosity w/o any additives per owner's manual recommendation (see attachment). Hoping for no engine failures but don't want to be denied a warranty claim because it was determined that I had used a non-recommended oil.

 

[EngTech1]

5W - 20 Southern State - Garage never gets below 48 degrees - 2-3 oz Lucas If Needed (which is Miles from 20% they want U to Add ) on long Hot Runs - State to State ..


Pennzoil 5W-20 Natural Gas ~ Refined from .

 

[ZipZap]

Using the factory recommended viscosity w/o any additives per owner's manual recommendation (see attachment). Hoping for no engine failures but don't want to be denied a warranty claim because it was determined that I had used a non-recommended oil.

The detergents mention in the picture are additives.

 

[Fired00d]

The detergents mention in the picture are additives.

I would think the "additives" they are speaking of are above and beyond (additional products) and not what is in the oil itself. More than likely if you looked at the Honda oil it probably contains some detergents.

 

[[email protected]]

Yes all this advice is correct but was was left out is most important. USE 100% synthetic oil. The manual says you can use conventional oil also but I do not agree, especially with the turbo engines.

 

[craig04c5]

Yes all this advice is correct but was was left out is most important. USE 100% synthetic oil. The manual says you can use conventional oil also but I do not agree, especially with the turbo engines.

Yep I agree. I just put Mobil 1 full syn 0-20 in mine. I use Mobil 1 in all my vehicles, even my John Deere lawn tractor which is air cooled and gets hot.

 

[allicedout]

I have trouble with the water like viscosity of 0w20 oil. I previously owed a 2011 Mustang GT and it took 5w20. from my understanding the first number is the cold weight and the second number is the weight once the oil is hot. Truth be told both my 2011 and my previous to that 2005 Mustang experienced a lot of blow by when starting up the car. After listening to my mechanic we went to a 10w30 as it was summer driven only and it totally eliminated the blow by with no effects. The car was later boosted to 600rwhp with no adverse effects. I'm skeptical on the 0w20 as I've read manufacturers use it to achieve good gas mileage ratings as it creates less resistance in the motor. I'll be doing a little more research but will more then likely be going to a 30 weight oil year round.

 

[[email protected]]

Changing oil viscosity and using additives.

So what oil do you use and why?

NEVER NEVER NEVER substitute a different oil viscosity from the 0W-20 recommended by Honda.

Engineers have chosen this viscosity, in cold AND warm climates, after hours/years of research under every driving condition.

Also if you want to use an additive...DON'T....the additives are already in the oil Honda recommends.

If you want to have problems ignore Honda and my advice.

Best regards,

Bruce Sharkey

 

[allicedout]

NEVER NEVER NEVER substitute a different oil viscosity from the 0W-20 recommended by Honda.

Engineers have chosen this viscosity, in cold AND warm climates, after hours/years of research under every driving condition.

Also if you want to use an additive...DON'T....the additives are already in the oil Honda recommends.

If you want to have problems ignore Honda and my advice.

Best regards,

Bruce Sharkey

The difference in viscosity between a 20 and 30 grade is minimal. Most people don't know that 5W-20 lubricants are on the high range of 20, and xW-30 grade lubricants are in the mid to low range of 30. Therefore, the average difference in viscosity at engine operating temperature is minimal.

The Mustang was a high performance car so I could justify the change, but after reading what you wrote I can agree with what you are saying. It makes sense for a daily to follow what the manual has laid out. I keep forgetting this is a daily driver and not my weekend car. :wink:

 

[[email protected]]

Allicedout,

That was probably OK with the Mustang. Their engines are made to larger tolerances and will support the thicker oil.

This change on a Honda will be disastrous! Especially with a turbo engine. The 0W-20 is proven more capable on high operating temperatures but also gives quick flow protection during cold startups where most wear always happens.

STAY WITH WHAT HONDA RECOMMENDS!! Full synthetic 0W-20.

 

[allicedout]

Allicedout,

That was probably OK with the Mustang. Their engines are made to larger tolerances and will support the thicker oil.

This change on a Honda will be disastrous! Especially with a turbo engine. The 0W-20 is proven more capable on high operating temperatures but also gives quick flow protection during cold startups where most wear always happens.

STAY WITH WHAT HONDA RECOMMENDS!! Full synthetic 0W-20.

Point noted... Thanks for the info I'll definitely stick with the OEM stuff which is what I have generally done with my DD's.

 

[gn842]

I have trouble with the water like viscosity of 0w20 oil. I previously owed a 2011 Mustang GT and it took 5w20. from my understanding the first number is the cold weight and the second number is the weight once the oil is hot. Truth be told both my 2011 and my previous to that 2005 Mustang experienced a lot of blow by when starting up the car. After listening to my mechanic we went to a 10w30 as it was summer driven only and it totally eliminated the blow by with no effects. The car was later boosted to 600rwhp with no adverse effects. I'm skeptical on the 0w20 as I've read manufacturers use it to achieve good gas mileage ratings as it creates less resistance in the motor. I'll be doing a little more research but will more then likely be going to a 30 weight oil year round.

I try not to get too clever in my analysis of what makes the auto engineers tick. If they say 0-20 I'll use 0-20. If someone says, well, they're trying to up the mileage (and therefore sacrificing longevity of the vehicle) that seems like a stretch. These ain't your grandpa's cars that took 10-30 or straight 30 and that was that, forever.

I guess because I'm obsessive I did get Blackstone reports on my 2014 Accord's oil and will probably keeping doing that in the future. For one thing, as per warranty, it completely eliminates any question of whether you're doing oil changes. And I just found it interesting.

But it also allows us to test the hypothesis that the 0-20 recommendation is designed to privilege mileage over engine wear. My 2014 was assassinated in the prime of life with 63,000 miles on it. It had been run on 0-20 Mobile 1 synthetic its entire life. So, if the thinner oil were a cause of increased wear then it should show metal particles in the Blackstone report at higher levels than my region's average wear figures for cars (which are in the report, as well as national averages).

Increased engine degradation would also show as an increase in the detection of criteria pollutants on most smog tests.

All I can say is that my Accord was under regional averages for metal wear. Phosphorus and one or two others (the testing list is quite long) were a little elevated. But the report was overwhelmingly clean. If engines running 0-20 were *seriously* deteriorating as a result of that oil choice there would be a to-do about it in California, of that you can be pretty sure. So I'm going to go with the idea that sometimes an automotive engineer's recommendation is....their optimal choice for the design they created. GN

 

[[email protected]]

Using the factory recommended viscosity w/o any additives per owner's manual recommendation (see attachment). Hoping for no engine failures but don't want to be denied a warranty claim because it was determined that I had used a non-recommended oil.

Yes Fired00d,
I have worked around lubrication problems and with lubrication engineers for many years. In this car, Accord with or without turbo, the 0W-20 synthetic is the ONLY choice for engine durability AND warranty qualification.

I would choose the Honda brand oil as they have researched this and recommend it.

Also Honda should have made the synthetic oil mandatory for all turbo engines.

Good luck,:smile_big:

Bruce

 

[LDB415]

I presume, although I don't have the evidence to prove it, the Honda engineers are top tier and high paid and know what they're doing more than most so I go with what they recommend.

 

[fzr100098]

STAY WITH WHAT HONDA RECOMMENDS!! Full synthetic 0W-20.

You have Honda hugger guys like this on every forum who don't really know what they're talking about with the usual blather about "tighter tolerances, etc - it's all bs - the tolerances are basically the same as previous Accords. 5W-30 is perfectly fine in these engines, it's what I run, the super light oils are a concession for fuel economy, not ultimate longevity of the engine. How many older Accords are there with 300k+ miles on the clock running 5W-30 and 10W-30? Many! End of argument! Remember all turbo engines have some fuel dilution (get your oil analyzed at oilanalyzers - you will see it) and thin out of grade very quickly. Blowby also seems to be worse with the ultra thin oils (unless you're running a catch can, you won't know)

Also, Honda does not manufacture oil! It's just rebadged. Amsoil Signature, Mobil 1 EP, Castrol Syn EP - all excellent

 

[Fired00d]

You have Honda hugger guys like this on every forum who don't really know what they're talking about with the usual blather about "tighter tolerances, etc - it's all bs - the tolerances are basically the same as previous Accords. 5W-30 is perfectly fine in these engines, it's what I run, the super light oils are a concession for fuel economy, not ultimate longevity of the engine. How many older Accords are there with 300k+ miles on the clock running 5W-30 and 10W-30? Many! End of argument! Remember all turbo engines have some fuel dilution (get your oil analyzed at oilanalyzers - you will see it) and thin out of grade very quickly. Blowby also seems to be worse with the ultra thin oils (unless you're running a catch can, you won't know)

Also, Honda does not manufacture oil! It's just rebadged. Amsoil Signature, Mobil 1 EP, Castrol Syn EP - all excellent

Not a "Honda Hugger" myself (as I purchase what I like at the time of purchase... have owned many different brands), and not to speak for @[email protected]. However I do know that manufacturers will do anything they can to deny warranty... if it were found out that a non-recommended viscosity of oil was used then it could be a reason to deny any/all warranty(ies) JMHO. As you mentioned Honda doesn't make their oil and because they don't (and they don't give it to us free of charge) we aren't obligated to use "Honda" branded oil, however IMO we need to use the same viscosity of oil =/> than the manufacturers branded oil to preserve (if that is what is wanted) the warranty.

 

[fzr100098]

I get the warranty argument, but I change my own oil so that isn't an issue. To anyone running these ultra low viscosity oils (especially on long drain intervals), I would encourage you to get it analyzed - you may be shocked how thin/gas diluted it actually is (there are several reports on BITOG). For light duty grandma commutes it may be ok, if you drive the car hard it's not providing the level of protection needed for long term service in my opinion. When I emailed the guys at Mobil1 they conceded 5W-20 or 5W-30 is the viscosity they prefer, although they stopped short of recommending anything other than manufacturer spec, for obvious liability reasons...but again, how many Accords are on the road with 300k+ miles running 5W-30 and still maintain decent compression - there's all the proof I need. There isn't anything particularly unique about this motor (I have the 2.0), and the fact that it's forced induction just causes more oil thinning/loss of protection