Hi Salle2061,

I have the 1.5L sport which does not come with a sub. I've replaced front and rear speakers, unplugged ANC, and it didn't improved that much. I noticed a slight improvement when I unplugged the ANC. I think the problem is the lack of a sub and probably an amp. My next step to to add the small sub with built amp. Rockford Fosgate make one that's not expensive. I'm just looking for great clear sound. I'm not looking to make it loud.

My 2011 Odyssey has a better sound than my 2018 Accord. I just wish Honda put the premium sound package on the lower trim as the default. This is my only gripe about the Accord. I love everything about it.

Here are the speakers I bought.
Rockford Fosgate Speakers

Good Luck!
Hao

PS. Does your Apple CarPlay Nav sound comes out of the driver side speaker? I'm curious if that's how it is or something is wrong with mine.

 

Thank you for your feed back. Real experience is much appreciated.

I was not aware of the differences between Canadian and US sold models. I have the sports trim and it comes with the premium system as stock. Only LX comes with 6 speaker system

 

I have the Accord 2.0T Touring.. I first replaced the sub with a Kicker Sub (drop in replacement with some trimming). This gave the low end the car was missing. This is still using the stock amp. The sound was pretty good, I would be satisfy with this setup, but I want more.

Next I replaced the front and rear speakers with focal ISS165. This help improve the clarity for the high, it didn't help the mid bass much. The audio sounded much better all around... it actually made the bass (Kicker sub) sound weaker... because the fronts are better.

Then I added an amp to the sub.. now much sounds stage is really good like a luxury car. The mid bass is still missing, its not bad, but not good. I plan on adding a 4-channel amp to the 4 woofers (tweeters and center powered by stock) next week.

I did all install myself. I thought I share my experience, feel free to ask me anything.

 

The audio sounded much better all around... it actually made the bass (Kicker sub) sound weaker... because the fronts are better.

Yeap! that's how it starts

Thank you for your reply. I do have a questions

Did you have to turn off ANC when you replaced the sub while originally being powered by the factory amp? I would like to do as much modding as possible until I impact the ANC, then i will stop. I do appreciate the ANC feature.

Unfortunately there is no details on how ANC works, that is what speakers it uses in 10-speaker system, mids and sub or sub only. (maybe I missed it)
Logic, and some basic understanding of the noise cancellation process, tells me that as long as you are using the factory amp you should not have any issues as you are using the factory processed signal. Needing to unplug the ANC, would be true if you are using a LOC like AudioSource where you are re-creating the bass the system took out. However, if you have the factory signal where the equalization and playback are controlled by the cars amp, the speakers ability should not be a factor. I am ok with that.

Most posts/comments I have read so far seam to disconnect the ANC like its an appendix. Since we are here, we might as well take it out

 

I can tell you I tapped the front speakers for signal to the sub and when the ANC kicked in it played a 40 to 60 Hz hum. So I would speculate the ANC uses all speakers including the sub to play this low signal hum to cover road noise. I disconnected it and can’t tell a bit of difference.. if your doing an audio upgrade your better off sound deadening the car than using that damn ANC

 

if your doing an audio upgrade your better off sound deadening the car than using that damn ANC

100% agree.

I just don’t want to do the work

 

Thanks, Ricky! If I remember correctly from another post your have a 8 speaker system? Also you used the AC LC2i at the time?

 

Correct I have the 8 speaker system and I did use the LC2i to feed the amplifier.

 

From everything I’ve read the only way to add a sub without interfering with the ANC is in the 10 speaker system where they just swap the existing sub and use the factory amp to drive it. Even if you just run wires from the existing speakers to an amp input your still going to hear the ANC feedback thru your new sub. Why are you so against unplugging the ANC?

 

Why are you so against unplugging the ANC?

I appreciate the feature. 80% of the time I drive with radio not loud enough to overpower the road noise.

I think i got enough info, here as well as other places, to go ahead and try replacing the sub straight out. Other than time it will not cost me anything as I have one sitting unused from the car i am selling. Its a 2ohm to boot. how perfect

thanks again

 

I appreciate the feature. 80% of the time I drive with radio not loud enough to overpower the road noise.

I completely understand and I too appreciate the feature but even with it connected the road noise level in this car from day one was extremely loud. This is the main reason I want to do a whole car sound deadening treatment. I want the benefit of the reduced road noise more than any benefit to the audio system. Good luck with your install and be sure to keep us updated on the progress.

 

I replaced just the front speakers, the improvement was greater than I hoped, mainly the highs ($90 Infinity Primus), 100% worth the time and money IMO. BTW I did not use the Infinity crossovers.

 

That is great to hear, thanks. Why no crossovers?

 

the stock amp has crossovers apparently and while they may not be exactly what the Infinity crossovers use, I figured it was close enough, they sound great and time will tell if the tweeters are ok

 

If you don’t follow CAF on YouTube it offers some great information and the episode above is all about components and the advantages of running active over passive. I’m not saying all crossovers are going to eat up 40% of the power but I have seen a cheap Pyle set that was tested that did eat up 39% of the 50 watts on the channel. For the180 watts system in the sport you only have 22.5 watts per channel so I’m a little hesitant to run a passive crossover with a component set on one channel when I can run the mid on one channel and the tweeter with a cap on another channel to make the best use of the 22.5 watts. Just my opinion and yes I am an electrical engineer by trade...lol... Enjoy and Happy Thanksgiving to all!

 

Enjoy and Happy Thanksgiving to all!

Happy Thanksgiving!

 

Thank you all for your comments.

I finally replaced the the front door speakers on one side so I can compare them to stock before committing to doing the rest. Results are a little disappointing.

Replacement tweeter (infinity ref-x range) is at least three categories higher in the SQ. There are instruments/sounds that you almost do not hear on the stock tweets. Vocals are night and day improvement. On the flip side the Infinity mids are lacking mid/bass as there is simply not enough power there to move them, as mentioned above. They are clearly asking for an amp with a more power. Characteristics of the sound is better on the Infinity mids but the stock mids are just better tuned to the power available. As the whole stock system is already lacking bass, I can not make that trade off until i consider installing an amp.

Cross-over is a no go. As "2019EXL2.0t" mentioned the signal is already crossed internally. I saw some pics and videos of tweeters with caps on the tweeter itself but mine do not have any and the sound coming out is already crossed. Maybe generation 1.1 ??

BTW it looks like the stock tweeters have a bigger magnet than the stock mids

So I'm going with replacement tweets and stock mids in the front. I wont even touch the back until Spring.

again, thanks to all contributing

 

That's interesting, I did notice a little less weight when I swapped mine (yours have more sensitivity than my Primus line so I would have even less output in theory). I may have to swap back the stock woofers and try it out.
The bottom line is that the whole system needs replaced and amped but at least the tweeters make a nice improvement for little effort or money.
My only concern is I want to keep active noise cancelling intact.

 

Same here as far as the ANC.

I still suspect that if I don’t use an audio correcting device like AudioControl LCi2 etc. it will not affect the ANC but Get more power. Of course I still will be left with the factory bass roll-off. Can’t win it all.

Unfortunately i don’t have the garage space necessary to do this before spring. Or before the temperature goes back to above 32F (or 0C if you are in Canada)

 

So I went ahead and pulled the trigger on a set of 2.3ohm JBL GX600c components for the front, jBL GX coaxial for the back, and the Alpine Power Pack (45watts rms x4). The speakers have a sensitivity of 93db and rated at 60watts rms so I’m hoping the class D power pack can make them sing, I read many reviews and they all praised this little amp so fingers are crossed. My dilemma is how to hook the amp up, I think I’m going to feed all four channels with the front speaker signal and then use the gain to adjust the “fade” from front to back. This would insure the best signal source for both the front and back speakers. Hope to have it all in the weekend after Christmas.

 

Class D amps have come a long way. Would like to hear your opinion once installed.

just took a look at the JBLs 600 from the pictures the mid looks identical to my infinity’s. Right down to the spider/Voice coil vents. Tweeter is the same edge driven soft done. Its even the same color as the infinity’s. I guess that’s what happens when a company gets bought out by a big company like Samsung.

 

Btw, Mine are Reference 6500cx

 

Got a question for you, what did you use for speaker ring adapters when mounting the new 6.5” in the door? I’m trying to figure out how I’m going to mount the new speakers and figured I’ll make some out of wood if need be but I would like to find something that’s pre made and works securely with no modifications necessary if possible.

 

Yes I got plastic adapter rings. Not the best in the world but functional. As they were hollow inside I filled them out with hot glue for density and to make sure the speaker screw holes do not flare out after one use. It’s made in China plastic after all. You can’t see the hot glue in the picture as it’s filled from behind the adapter ring. Here is the final assembly.

 

Yes I got plastic adapter rings. Not the best in the world but functional. As they were hollow inside I filled them out with hot glue for density and to make sure the speaker screw holes do not flare out after one use. It’s made in China plastic after all. You can’t see the hot glue in the picture as it’s filled from behind the adapter ring. Here is the final assembly.

Any chance you could let me know which set you purchased and where? If they worked I would like to give them a try so I’m not wasting time and money on items that have no chance of working...lol

 

To be 100% honest with you, if I was buying the the rings again I would take a chance somewhere else. Not too crazy about the ones I got.
Even when tightened the bottom two latches have play in them so yeah... “maid in China with love”

My recommendation is to get 1 inch thick MDF rings drill the top hole and reuse the screw from the OEMs. Then drill two more holes where he hooks are and use the wood screws and those black “wood screw nuts” you got in your speaker package. You will need 2 one inch washer for the back as those holes as they are bigger then the nut it self.
you will find mdf rings at any install bay shop easily. I’m sure you know that already

The baffles I used are NVX XBAF65. There is a slight but audible difference while testing with and without. Not as great as their marketing suggests but worth the $15. If nothing else protect well against water over time.

 

Btw I got my adapter from a reseller on amazon called “All Dazzling”. So that’s the one to avoid. But I’m sure there are not a ton of makers of those so you will likely get the same product from other sellers too

 

Thanks again for all your help... I might just make them out of 1” MDF and call it good.

 

Let me know how the amp setup and performance of it goes. Very interested to find out

 

Will do... I hope to get everything installed by next weekend.

 

Salle2061-hi new to the forum here. Been following this thread because I’ve been doing my research to replace speakers in my 19 sport 2.0T. I’m glad I came across this post because I saw you mention that the front speakers/tweeters are already crossed. I purchased Infinity Reference REF-6530cx from Crutchfield. The one piece of information I couldn’t find (which I hope it helps someone) was the fact that the crossover for this set does not fit in your door panel without modifications to it which I was not willing to do. Feel free to chime in on that. But I purchased a set of tweeters for the rear deck Infinity Reference REF-375TX that came with a wire with the resistor in it. So with the information I saw you posted, I just ditched the crossover plan for the front and just installed that cable with the resistor in it for the front and saving the crossover for the rear deck. Crutchfield recommends the component set mentioned above but that crossover is very bulky and doesn’t fit which led me to waste time installing the front speakers.

 

Welcome to the forum JGarcia35. thank you for contributing. I am a newbie to the Accord form as well.

Yes, the space is tight on the inside of the door panel. Tighter than any other I worked on.

Suggestion. Open the plastic case and take the printed board out. On mine it does not require any tools. Well, except a pry tool. Than you can easily hot glue them to the “outside of the inside” of the door trim there is an adequate space in the back of the panel right below the elbow rest.

I have tried to see if it fits and it does but since I have not replaced the amp yet I just left it with stock wiring for now. Till Spring

Also, for a finishing touch remove the infinity badges from the grills (not used anyways) and apply them to the car. See the photos.

Btw way I removed the top cover (wave guide) from the tweeters. It’s not really a wave guide anyways just to protect. I setup one side with removed edge and other with. Removed one was a much nicer stage in my opinion.

 

OK i finally finished the components install in the font doors, the coaxials in the rear deck, full sound deadening Of the rear deck, and the Alpine Power Pack install and wired it all up. I can tell you the Power Pack really makes the components and coaxials scream! I used the factory speakers as mounting brackets for my new speakers because I never intended to reinstall them and they would have been tossed in the trash anyway. I used hot glue to hold the new tweeters in place and they fit perfect in the factory housing. I’m using the LC2i connected to the front speakers as inputs and used the bass output for my sub and the connected a set of Y rca adapters to the main output of the LC2i to use for all four inputs to the Alpine Power Pack. This way the rear speakers get full signal input as well as the fronts. I pulled all new 16 gauge speaker wire to all four speakers and ran the new wire through the boots of the doors.

 

Great to hear!

You saved probably 10-15 amps by not using the factory amp as the LOC's usually run on 30+ ohms. So your factory amp is now likley pulling less than 5 amps plus the Alpine 4ch running at 11-12A at max you are in the same ampreage range, but more sound. Ofcourse the sub amp is not part of this equation

Lots of work to remove the rear deck? more than 30 minutes?

 

The rear deck was really pretty easy to get out and 30 minutes start to finish is probably right on the money. The two side pieces on the C pillar have one time use clips so be sure to grab a couple before starting. You can reuse them if they don’t break when removing but I bought 4 just Incase...lol.. To remove you take a large Phillips head and hit them with a rubber mallet. Disconnect the speaker clips and I popped all the green clips from the trunk side by pushing up on them with the wooden handle of my rubber mallet. Then pull the deck forward about an inch and then lift, there is one more clip on the right side you have to disconnect from the top once you lift the deck up. I was going to try the Kicker Key amp but I wanted to run the 2.3 ohm JBL’s and the Key will not run at ANYTHING less than a 4 ohm load. I can’t express enough how good this little power pack sounds on the JBL speakers, I even have the gain all the way down on both channels of the power pack. This little thing is amazing for its size and rating...