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Not sure if this is of any value to anyone, but on the stock headunit on the accord sport, clipping begins at 24 according to o-scope. Not great for driving my Focal ISS 165's but certainly better than stock.
 

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Discussion Starter · #83 ·
i have the 10 speaker touring... i'm interested in this. Any recommendation for a direct replacement tweeter for fronts?
Front Tweeters are easy to replace. Any speaker that is an inch or smaller will fit. If I remember correctly stock tweeter is 1 1/8 size. Some hot glue to hold it in place and you are done.

BTW you don’t even need an xOver as the factory amp is already crossed at about ~3500hz. Just make sure the tweeter you choose can go down to 3500hz as some go down to only 5000. At which point you could be destroying the tweeter
 

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Front Tweeters are easy to replace. Any speaker that is an inch or smaller will fit. If I remember correctly stock tweeter is 1 1/8 size. Some hot glue to hold it in place and you are done.

BTW you don’t even need an xOver as the factory amp is already crossed at about ~3500hz. Just make sure the tweeter you choose can go down to 3500hz as some go down to only 5000. At which point you could be destroying the tweeter
Thanks..thinking about just doing front tweeters and a sub in trunk
 

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Front Tweeters are easy to replace. Any speaker that is an inch or smaller will fit. If I remember correctly stock tweeter is 1 1/8 size. Some hot glue to hold it in place and you are done.

BTW you don’t even need an xOver as the factory amp is already crossed at about ~3500hz. Just make sure the tweeter you choose can go down to 3500hz as some go down to only 5000. At which point you could be destroying the tweeter
what do you think about these? Also 6ohm?

 

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Discussion Starter · #86 ·
what do you think about these? Also 6ohm?

Not really familiar with their sound characteristics but Type S line has always been a decent bang for the buck. Also, silk will have a much softer sound than the metal dome stock tweets. So expect a better vocal blend but less dynamics. It really depends on what you listen to, as always.

Install wize, they play down to 1000hz so you will be fine to use them without supplied x-over. Size is good too at 1.5-inch diameter they will just fit in the stock housing. 6 ohms is less than the stock 4 ohms so less power. However they are tweeters and don’t need much.

I tried the silk tweeter from Infinity originally(see link below). That is the comparison I was using to give you the sound characteristics above.
They have lower resistance at 3 ohms and are 5db more efficient than the Alpines above. 5db is a substantial increase (~25% louder) and, at 3ohm, you will get everything the amp can give you. It's hard to quantify sound by numbers but it is "very likely" Infinities will be louder than the Type-S. I would not worry about this is you are planing to amplify them seperately but with the stock amp it will likely make an audiable difference.

I did end up going with older JBL titanium dome tweeters at the end but that is just my preference.
 

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Sorry for the dead thread receive but I need the group knowledge. So I found a PSU300 for a great price but have some install questions from the audio gurus here based on all the info I have read about it. First off wouldn't it sound better facing up vs down. I thought down facing did better on hard floors or things that they could bounce off of not carpet. It also doesn't appear to be much room between the speaker and floor when installed which I would think would muffler the sound.
Also based on what I have read the fronts clip off Anything below 47hz and the rear 80hz. So based on that should I set the front hpf to 60jz and rears to 80hz. And finally the lp filter on the instructions seems like it's set a little high around 120hz. Should I bother with that or just adjust it down once it's installed t until it sounds proper starting where they suggest and go from there.(I included link first post shows the diagram ect for better understanding) I know I'm noIt going to get earth shattering bass from it but again I have a hybrid so my options are limited and I really just wanted some sound. I've also read about splicing In a dsp, specifically the line 86 unit into the PSU300 and it work d wonders. Thanks in advance
 

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Installed this Saturday and have been playing with the tuning. I have them front at 60hz rear at 80hz. Last night I lowered Lp filter to about 80hz from 100hz and raised the sub gain some more to about the 1-2oclock position as well. It hits pretty hard now for what it is and have some adjustment window with external the subwoofer knob. It sounds so much better now (clarity and loudness). Now I'm def run into the problem with the stock speakers and having horrible mids. As I have been listening to a variety of music and there are sounds that I know are there but just sound muddled or like distortion. Think I may swap the front speaker for a pair of the Morel Maximo Coax 6 and some baffles. Overall very happy even without the new front speakers, especially for the price of the PSU.
 

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Hi Salle2061,

I have the 1.5L sport which does not come with a sub. I've replaced front and rear speakers, unplugged ANC, and it didn't improved that much. I noticed a slight improvement when I unplugged the ANC. I think the problem is the lack of a sub and probably an amp. My next step to to add the small sub with built amp. Rockford Fosgate make one that's not expensive. I'm just looking for great clear sound. I'm not looking to make it loud.

My 2011 Odyssey has a better sound than my 2018 Accord. I just wish Honda put the premium sound package on the lower trim as the default. This is my only gripe about the Accord. I love everything about it.

Here are the speakers I bought.
Rockford Fosgate Speakers

Good Luck!
Hao

PS. Does your Apple CarPlay Nav sound comes out of the driver side speaker? I'm curious if that's how it is or something is wrong with mine.
i think my 2019 accord touring has the honda version of "premium sound" ....it is a sickening joke.
 

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Installed the Morel Maximo 6 in the front doors today and they are def way better than stock. Much better mids and clearer highs, not very bright. That being said, there are some sounds they are having problems reproducing on some songs. It sounds like static. Its not too much power ect because its only on a particular song trying to replicate the proper sounds and hey just cant. Playing other song at higher volumes its not there. I knew from the beginning that I may wind up throwing these in the rear deck for filler if I did not like them fully. They are good speakers for the price, but better in the rear deck vs the fronts imo.
 

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Morels' in the rear deck now Kicker KS and sounds tremendously better. Maximos are perfect in the the rear. Kickers are clean and clear, very crisp mids and highs but not harsh. I have always liked silk dome tweeters, and the price on these for the sound and quality is amazing imo. Never used Kicker before but equally as good as more expensive Focals. I can hear some signal noise and what not at higher volumes and may just add a 47keyloc/dsp into the mix.
 

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Thread bump. Swapped to an EXL and looking to change out the rear sub using the factory amp and my kicker keyloc dsp from my base model. I see a couple people have simply mounted the sub in stock location as I want to. Can someone please share how to get power to the sub using the factory amp? Can I just tap the harness going to the sub already? Plan on tapping the fronts for signal to the keyloc.
 

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I have the Accord 2.0T Touring.. I first replaced the sub with a Kicker Sub (drop in replacement with some trimming). This gave the low end the car was missing. This is still using the stock amp. The sound was pretty good, I would be satisfy with this setup, but I want more.

Next I replaced the front and rear speakers with focal ISS165. This help improve the clarity for the high, it didn't help the mid bass much. The audio sounded much better all around... it actually made the bass (Kicker sub) sound weaker... because the fronts are better.

Then I added an amp to the sub.. now much sounds stage is really good like a luxury car. The mid bass is still missing, its not bad, but not good. I plan on adding a 4-channel amp to the 4 woofers (tweeters and center powered by stock) next week.

I did all install myself. I thought I share my experience, feel free to ask me anything.
Could you please share which specific kicker subwoofer you went with for the drop in/swap? I am interested in slowly upgrading the components, similar approach you took. The audio system on the 2.0T Touring is a joke for being the top trim.
 

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Could you please share which specific kicker subwoofer you went with for the drop in/swap? I am interested in slowly upgrading the components, similar approach you took. The audio system on the 2.0T Touring is a joke for being the top trim.
Not sure what one he used but was told by a kicker rep to stick with the Comp C if your using it free air. You really wont see a difference by stepping up to a Comp R. Unless you go with the shallow mount version, I would stick with the Comp C. Running a Comp C 10" in the rear deck but its not drop in.
 

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Not sure what one he used but was told by a kicker rep to stick with the Comp C if your using it free air. You really wont see a difference by stepping up to a Comp R. Unless you go with the shallow mount version, I would stick with the Comp C. Running a Comp C 10" in the rear deck but its not drop in.
Thanks man, I appreciate the info.
 

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I can tell you I tapped the front speakers for signal to the sub and when the ANC kicked in it played a 40 to 60 Hz hum. So I would speculate the ANC uses all speakers including the sub to play this low signal hum to cover road noise. I disconnected it and can’t tell a bit of difference.. if your doing an audio upgrade your better off sound deadening the car than using that damn ANC
Hey,

I'm sure you've probably been participating in my previous post, or at least saw it.

I've decided it's just gonna be to hard for me alone to install a complete new system. I've read and re-read all of my original post and responses, and the links as well.

What I've decided, at least for the remainder of this year, into next spring probably, is to just add a lc2i/amp/sub/box. Already have sub/box. Will be buying a new amp (more powerful/higher qauality), and lc2i.

I see where you, and everyone else, has said tap into the front speakers. Can you please explain how to do this to me?
Be as specific as possible.
Do I need to tap both sides mid and twt?
Where do I locate the wires INSIDE the car, not from the door panels?

If I make just this one addition, it will satisfy me to the point where I can plan further upgrades in the future, but I am literally stuck on where to do the taps on the front, and if that means left and right.

Please help if you can.

Thanks,

Viper
 

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Hey,

I'm sure you've probably been participating in my previous post, or at least saw it.

I've decided it's just gonna be to hard for me alone to install a complete new system. I've read and re-read all of my original post and responses, and the links as well.

What I've decided, at least for the remainder of this year, into next spring probably, is to just add a lc2i/amp/sub/box. Already have sub/box. Will be buying a new amp (more powerful/higher qauality), and lc2i.

I see where you, and everyone else, has said tap into the front speakers. Can you please explain how to do this to me?
Be as specific as possible.
Do I need to tap both sides mid and twt?
Where do I locate the wires INSIDE the car, not from the door panels?

If I make just this one addition, it will satisfy me to the point where I can plan further upgrades in the future, but I am literally stuck on where to do the taps on the front, and if that means left and right.

Please help if you can.

Thanks,

Viper
Hi All,

As some of you may have been following, I did add a kicker amp (c800 I think), lc2i, and my sealed enclosure with the same Alpine 12" Type R sub. Also, I did replace the front door/sail panel speakers with a set of KS series Kicker 6.75" speakers. I thought it sounded pretty good, but now I see an issue.

Today was the first day I actually drove the car with the new speakers. Now...the problem:

My stock center speaker is WAY louder than the door speakers.

So, I've been trying to avoid having to replace the center speaker, as I hate tearing apart cars anymore.

Is there any way to lower the volume of just the center speaker via the stock controls? Or, do I really have to replace the center speaker with a like Kicker 3.5"?

I did not realize exactly how loud the center speaker was until I upgraded the front doors/sails. The center is way too loud. Is there any way, short of replacing it, that I can cut the volume of it?

Thanks so much for your help, as always.

Viper
 

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You could fade it to the rear a little bit will shift the entire sound stage back. Really only way I can think would be to remove it and add some sort of load or volume limiter, or change the speaker. If your interested I have a new Kicker 3.5 for sale since they come in pairs and only need one.
 

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You could fade it to the rear a little bit will shift the entire sound stage back. Really only way I can think would be to remove it and add some sort of load or volume limiter, or change the speaker. If your interested I have a new Kicker 3.5 for sale since they come in pairs and only need one.
Hi,

Actually, I am interested in that single Kicker 3.5". How much are you selling it for first of? And, before I even look at the videos of how to change it, tell me, is it really difficult?

Strange thing is, I did not notice this effect when I just listened in the driveway. But upon driving, the center was heard over the door speakers. Do you think changing it, to a Kicker brand like I have in my doors, would alleviate this issue?

I'll await your reply. I hope you can get back to me tonight. If not, I'll catch you when you do.

Thanks,

Viper
 

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Hi,

Actually, I am interested in that single Kicker 3.5". How much are you selling it for first of? And, before I even look at the videos of how to change it, tell me, is it really difficult?

Strange thing is, I did not notice this effect when I just listened in the driveway. But upon driving, the center was heard over the door speakers. Do you think changing it, to a Kicker brand like I have in my doors, would alleviate this issue?

I'll await your reply. I hope you can get back to me tonight. If not, I'll catch you when you do.

Thanks,

Viper
Also want to add a question to the above. Is it the fact that the factory speaker has a higher sensitivity than the ones I put in the doors. Back in my day, there were no center channels, so I've never dealt with this issue before. Thanks.

Viper
 
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