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Replace stock Speakers while using the stock AMP

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Discussion starter · #41 ·
Great to hear!

You saved probably 10-15 amps by not using the factory amp as the LOC's usually run on 30+ ohms. So your factory amp is now likley pulling less than 5 amps plus the Alpine 4ch running at 11-12A at max you are in the same ampreage range, but more sound. Ofcourse the sub amp is not part of this equation :)

Lots of work to remove the rear deck? more than 30 minutes?
 
#42 ·
The rear deck was really pretty easy to get out and 30 minutes start to finish is probably right on the money. The two side pieces on the C pillar have one time use clips so be sure to grab a couple before starting. You can reuse them if they don’t break when removing but I bought 4 just Incase...lol.. To remove you take a large Phillips head and hit them with a rubber mallet. Disconnect the speaker clips and I popped all the green clips from the trunk side by pushing up on them with the wooden handle of my rubber mallet. Then pull the deck forward about an inch and then lift, there is one more clip on the right side you have to disconnect from the top once you lift the deck up. I was going to try the Kicker Key amp but I wanted to run the 2.3 ohm JBL’s and the Key will not run at ANYTHING less than a 4 ohm load. I can’t express enough how good this little power pack sounds on the JBL speakers, I even have the gain all the way down on both channels of the power pack. This little thing is amazing for its size and rating...
 
#46 ·
One thing I’ll add is most on here have said not to waste the money with going components in the rear because the rear channel is muted compared to the front channel which is true. But since I used the front channel signal as a source for both the front and rear inputs I now wish I had bought two sets of components because my back coaxial two ways can’t handle the bass my front components can handle. Because I had the gain turned all the way down on the power pack I had to engage the rear 60hz filter on the amp to prevent the coaxials from distorting at higher volume levels. I’m thinking I might order another set of matching JBL components for the rear deck now...lol
 
Discussion starter · #47 ·
Ricky Bobby said:
One thing I’ll add is most on here have said not to waste the money with going components in the rear because the rear channel is muted compared to the front channel which is true. But since I used the front channel signal as a source for both the front and rear inputs I now wish I had bought two sets of components because my back coaxial two ways can’t handle the bass my front components can handle. Because I had the gain turned all the way down on the power pack I had to engage the rear 60hz filter on the amp to prevent the coaxials from distorting at higher volume levels. I’m thinking I might order another set of matching JBL components for the rear deck now...lol
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good to know.

Are your 6.5s free air? They may be distorting because they are being pushed by the subs air waves which may be contradicting with the direction of the 6.5s of the time, or they are just being pushed to the max.

As a test you can unplug the rear 6’s and than play same music that was distorting before. If you hear distortion you may have to isolate your 6’s

(i was thinking of replacing the 6.5s with two 6.5 subs plus replace the factory 8. That should also give it approximately a cone area of a 10 inch.)
 
#48 ·
I adjusted the crossover point for the rear speakers and that solve the problem of the lower frequency distortion and higher audio levels. I also spent the day looking at DSP and equalizers to allow for fine-tuning of the sound quality because Hondas equalizer settings are not very good. this has brought me to the audio control LCQ1 and I believe this might be my next purchase to allow fine-tuning of the sound quality and it would replace my LC2i.
 
Discussion starter · #49 ·
Ricky Bobby said:
I adjusted the crossover point for the rear speakers and that solve the problem of the lower frequency distortion and higher audio levels. I also spent the day looking at DSP and equalizers to allow for fine-tuning of the sound quality because Hondas equalizer settings are not very good. this has brought me to the audio control LCQ1 and I believe this might be my next purchase to allow fine-tuning of the sound quality and it would replace my LC2i.
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I have LCQ1 from the previous car. just not installed yet.
Nice unit but i had a **** of a time trying to get the hiss out that, it think, was introduced by the unit itself. Switched the amps at one point, re-did the ground, three pairs of RCA's all tried while retaining the hiss issue. Had to keep the output gain to 1/3 to minimize the hiss. Not sure I can recommend it based on that. EQ and AccuBass was functioning great otherwise.

BTW, the 5 year warranty with AudioControl only applies if installed by a paid tech. Otherwise its 1 year. Around the end of the year two the circuitry that connects the rear channel input to subwoofer input, just died. Just simply stop connecting. It was not in the act of setup or modification just simply during listening the sub just stopped. I can still use it but only if I daisy chain the sub input to the rears.
 
#50 · (Edited)
Well that’s not good news to hear because I really like audio controls products. And the LCQ1 would have allowed me to replace the LC2i and gain an equalizer along with LOC and the Accu bass. I thought about just adding an equalizer because they are really cheap like the Clarion. Did you have the hiss From day one when you installed or was it something that developed over time? If it was from day one I could try one from a reputable dealer like Crutchfield and then return it if it does have the hiss. There is also the DQ-61 wihich I believe is a newer product that does all the same things and adds timing alignment so that might be an even better option.
 
Discussion starter · #53 ·
Ricky Bobby said:
Well that’s not good news to hear because I really like audio controls products. And the LCQ1 would have allowed me to replace the LC2i and gain an equalizer along with LOC and the Accu bass. I thought about just adding an equalizer because they are really cheap like the Clarion. Did you have the hiss From day one when you installed or was it something that developed over time? If it was from day one I could try one from a reputable dealer like Crutchfield and then return it if it does have the hiss. There is also the DQ-61 wihich I believe is a newer product that does all the same things and adds timing alignment so that might be an even better option.
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Hiss was there from the beginning. I do think I had a fundamental bad ground somewhere that was causing the issue. From the car stereo or LCQ1

I tried just plugging in my phone directly into the amp and the hiss was gone. So it was somewhere from the source to the DSP. I even brought a direct ground cable from the battery, didn’t help.

Keep in Mind I might have just gotten a bad unit. I guess it happens even when it’s made in America! ?

LCQ also makes sense in the 10 speaker systems as it has a signal summing. But your system, I think, does not have direct tweeter and mid leads from the amp. So no benefit there

I looked up dq-61 and Yeap it’s the same functionality plus the timing and the iOS mobile app.

if I get around to this weekend I will hook up the LCQ1 on my bench and test it with a car amp. I know I have a good ground there so I’ll let you know how it turns out. I was preparing to test some older car amps as I was going to put up for sale anyways. I’ll let you know
 
#54 ·
Fired00d said:
Wow... reading what you guys are doing to your Accord's to get the best sounding systems makes me think me being tone deaf and hard of hearing is a blessing. ?
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Yeah.... I'm just waiting for the package with complete system and installation cost to be finalized. I'll be waiting in line.... This stuff is WAY over my head. ??
 
#55 ·
So I came across another issue that is driving me crazy that wasn’t near as noticeable before adding upgrading the system, the input quality differences between FM and Streaming on Spotify. Luckily the Spotify app offers a 6 band graphic EQ so I was able to tune the system to sound its best with FM using the 3 band EQ in the head unit and then turn the bass and treble down on the Spotify EQ to prevent overdrive in the speakers. I miss the old days of having a good indash EQ that had saved presets to allow quick changes between inputs and music types. I would love to find a DSP that offered a remote to change preset configurations that wasn’t $1000 or more, Alpine offers an interesting DSP with a remote but it’s close to $1000 after buying both pieces with tax..ugh
 
#56 ·
Salle2061 said:
This has nothing to do with hearing. This just boys and their toys ?
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I definitely understand that concept ("boys and their toys") but you have to be educated on those "toys" to be able to participate... fortunately (IMO) I'm not. ?
 
Discussion starter · #57 ·
Ricky Bobby said:
Well that’s not good news to hear because I really like audio controls products. And the LCQ1 would have allowed me to replace the LC2i and gain an equalizer along with LOC and the Accu bass. I thought about just adding an equalizer because they are really cheap like the Clarion. Did you have the hiss From day one when you installed or was it something that developed over time? If it was from day one I could try one from a reputable dealer like Crutchfield and then return it if it does have the hiss. There is also the DQ-61 wihich I believe is a newer product that does all the same things and adds timing alignment so that might be an even better option.
Click to expand...
Tested! Definately my unit is adding considerable amount of hiss. Not sure what to tell you.
4144
 
#58 ·
Well that is disheartening because Audio Control is a top notch company and I really like their products. So after a few days of research I think I found the perfect product, the Dayton Audio DSP 408. You can buy the wired remote similar to a bass knob that you mount up front that allows you quick access to EQ presets and time alignment presets. This would allow one tune for FM source to optimize sound quality for the less than great FM signal...lol.. and a separate EQ presets for streaming. Another major bonus of the DSP is the ability to set the EQ for each output to optimize the components up front, the coaxial in the rear deck, and the subwoofer. Not to mention the much better crossover options of 24db per octave. And best of all both pieces can be had for under $200.

 
Discussion starter · #59 ·
Ricky Bobby said:
Well that is disheartening because Audio Control is a top notch company and I really like their products. So after a few days of research I think I found the perfect product, the Dayton Audio DSP 408. You can buy the wired remote similar to a bass knob that you mount up front that allows you quick access to EQ presets and time alignment presets. This would allow one tune for FM source to optimize sound quality for the less than great FM signal...lol.. and a separate EQ presets for streaming. Another major bonus of the DSP is the ability to set the EQ for each output to optimize the components up front, the coaxial in the rear deck, and the subwoofer. Not to mention the much better crossover options of 24db per octave. And best of all both pieces can be had for under $200.

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Please don’t let my experience hider your decision there are plenty good reviews on LCQ1 out there. But since you have the lc2i all ready yes a seperate EQ is a more “sensible” option. (Read less money :)

I do have a great experience with Dayton Audio speakers I used in my home speaker building. However, never with their electronics. But again the reviews are in your favour.

I like the phone /app controls over the old school pots any time so a much better choice. You can do it directly from your listening position as oppose to running back to the trunk every 30 seconds for an adjustment
 
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